roaddetective

I might just get it out one day and double check where it fits and it's uses.

Thanks. At last I know what it is for.

It's this, but I have never used it and no idea what it is for. Don't even keep it in the car, as the whole foam insert in the wheel well is not needed with the spare wheel I bought.

They only cost a few pence at Skoda, as I bought another one as a spare a few weeks ago. Along with a set of 5 wheel nut plastic covers, as I think somebody pinched the ones that were on that wheel.

My previous car was a 2011 Octavia VRS TSI FL and it was brilliant. I had a new tensioner and chains fitted at 50k miles, just as a preventative measure, as I heard they can go bang with the old tensioner problem. Cost for the tensioner and chains fitted was around £650, so budget that in if you buy the car. As for oil use, it was not over using oil at all. Around half a ltr every 1k miles. Traded it in on 104k miles for the car I have now.

Hi new Skoda owner. Welcome to a friendly informative site. Plenty of good advice on here if you need it.

Oh that brought back memories. Had a Renault 12 as a company car way back in the 70s. You are so right, it certainly did roll! Just about kept it upright though.

Nobody here is saying they don't like cars with modifications, but when selling it's best to present a fully or fairly standard car. Everybody has different tastes, so it's better to buy a car and mod it to your own particular taste. Plus of course, if you take the mods off before you sell the car, you can also sell the modifications separately.

Totally agree with SCO3OTT.

I like less lettering and no chrome. so the ones I bought are either black, or colour coded/black. Changed front and rear badges. Got mine from Superskoda, although as jamiecurry stated, they are quite expensive but good quality. I never replaced the Skoda and Octavia badges on the boot lid.

I never watched the video, but if it shows the same, even better.

As you can see I have the same car and initially had the same problem. The solution is simple. Once deflectors are fitted and that problem occurs, here is what I did to solve it. When you usually press the window button, it's just a quick press and the window of course goes all the way up. But now it feels resistance as though a hand is trapped in the window, so it safely goes back down again to save injury.. Now the deflectors create that small resistance, so instead of a quick press of the window button, continue to hold the button up while the window makes it's way all the way up and at the same time have a hand on the glass firmly pushing upwards. Your hand pushing the glass up overcomes the resistance. After that, the window system gets to know this and overcomes the small resistance all by itself. This problem initially happened on 2 out of 4 of my windows. My windows with deflectors have not now been a problem since. Hopefully this makes sense.

I bought 4 badges from Superskoda. 2 are colour coded to my car and 2 are all black. They are certainly quite expensive, but I wanted quality so was prepared to pay for it. Total cost from memory, around £130. The badges look great on the car though.

I totally agree that some of the "good luck" is down to driving style. Myself being a qualified driving instructor who now trains full licence holders only in advanced/defensive driving, my style should allow clutches an easy long life. Not perfect though, as demonstrated last week off the lights on a dual carriageway. I just had to show up a fast Audi getting up to speed. Would have passed him too if he had not dangerously pulled out in my face into the right hand lane, when he noticed late, slower cars in front of him. Look further ahead Audi man and plan your drive better. Yes, I do still like the odd moments of fun, even at my age!

From what I have read on this site, bad clutch slip at low mileage after remap is not a common problem. I had my car mapped last year at around 18k miles, 329bhp with 499nm of torque, and at 23k miles now, no clutch slip so far. Read quite a few posts where clutches were no problem, but then there were a small few where they were slipping afterwards. Maybe it's just a matter of luck.

Yes I had a Racingline map done on a rolling road, stage one. Gave great results with stock hardware. Wonder what it would give me if I had a Racingline induction kit and sports cat and exhaust plus stage 2? Happy with the bhp I have now though. With that Civic Type R I did also have a Scorpion stainless exhaust as well. Still no increase in performance with the induction kit compared to standard.

I also have on numerous cars fitted the K&N panel filter, I assume it's the panel filter you mean. Apart from a slight increase in induction noise, never had any improvement in performance. I actually did some tests on my Civic Type R EP3 years ago. I used a full on K&N Typhoon induction kit as well as a heat shield. Once V-TECH cut in, boy did it roar. Did a timed 0-60mph and a timed 30 to 80mph in 3rd. The firsts runs I had the standard air filter. On the second runs I had the full kit fitted. Did the K&N kit make it any faster, NO. Timings were just the same with or without the induction kit. However, I hated the roar of the kit at high revs so much, took the kit off and sold it on E-Bay. With a later car I did the same with and without the K&N panel filter. Same again, timings were the same. So what was my impression? I have bought a few K&N panel filters, just because they last a lifetime. I was always careful when I cleaned them and reoiled them, to not spray too much oil onto the filter and to wait before refitting for the oil to dry off. Don't want that oil on the MAF sensor, which by the way never happened. I now just fit original VW air filters and certainly get plenty of performance from them on my mapped Octavia VRS TSI 230, or 329bhp as it is now. They are not really too expensive either.

I feel your pain, in fact I have had your sort of pain early last year. Came out to my car in our private off road car park to find it had been rammed on the front offside into the fence I park next to. The bill, £5.5k. If you are anything like me, you will want to just kill the person who hit your pride and joy, if you could find them. I did not calm down for at least 2 weeks afterwards, as I also did not find the culprit. The heavy punchbag I use for some training at home, came in very useful to get rid of some of the anger! Hope you get a good repair soon and I know over time, you will feel normal again.

Be careful though mate, as it might not be long before you will be spending on modifications. I have held back on my present VRS, as I have only done a couple of mods. On my last MK2 VRS, absolutely loads. Enjoy your motor.

Welcome Oshbosh to this site and the Skoda fold. I am on my second Octavia VRS, as I also love them.

I went from a tyre width of 225 to 235/35/19 to help protect my alloys. Still not great but better than before. The extra rubber on the road must help grip as well.

The same for me. I have the Michelin PS4S all round as well and they handle the extra mapped power of my VRS. It's only when the roads are very cold and damp that you get some wheel spin when pushed.

I have never had a problem with numerous cars using basic 95ron fuel. Apart from one, those cars were running stock power. My last Octavia VRS TSI was mapped and I mostly ran it on 95ron, with the best fuel fill up every 3rd fill, again no problems or loss of power. I was told however by the guy who mapped my present VRS, that most of the vehicles that came back with any problems, ran their mapped cars on the basic fuel only. He strongly suggested after it was mapped, to run my motor on the best fuel. Only the best has been put in my car since. Going with the saying, better be safe than sorry.

Mine also runs great on Tesco 99ron.

With the tyres I went for slightly wider. From 225 to 235 width. I had the map done in Swindon where they use Racingline maps. It was done on their rolling road to get it set up right. All the hardware on the car is still stock.