paulsoava

I took a couple of pictures of my underside (LHD, pictures from the left side). Sorry for the dirt, all car washes have been closed until further notice 😞 I also made a short film, you can maybe get a better idea; the file is too large to upload here so PM me and I will send directly if you wish.

Hi, I would say this looks just like mine but to be honest I don't look under the body that often. Could you explain where this piece would have been, maybe draw to give us a hint? I can maybe snap a picture of mine to compare

Hi, all. Hoping this might help others choose, this is the solution I ended up with: - Thule Wingbar Edge 9584 (it might be worth noting that for whatever reason the bars have different lengths; this is normal, it is what Thule intended, even though I don't really understand why) - Hapro Nordic (at 32 cm it was about as low as the Thule Motion XT Alpine but a little cheaper; I find it very spacious due to the length and width and quality wise I am satisfied) Now for the pros and cons: they fit very well, I think they look good in the car, you can open the hatch without issues and most of all I am able to park in my garage. I have not measured the exact height but all in all it fits comfortably at the 1900 mm clearance of my garage door so most underground parkings should also be easy to enter. However, as Thule advised the loading area of the Wingbars is less than the roofbox needs so it ends up sitting atop the plastic covers of the locking mechanism. I do not expect this to be too much of an issue but before I use them I think I will put a piece of rubber band between them just to make sure. Has anyone else had this problem? How did you solve it? I have obviously not been able to go out and test it for confinement purposes. Be safe, best of luck to all.

Hi, all. Bringing back an old thread, could you please tell me what the total height is with the roof box? Your car being a vRS is sits a bit lower than my 1.8 TSI but I can account for the difference. My garage has a clearance of 1900 mm so I guess that something like 400 mm woould be my clearance for box + bars, however I cannot find the height of the bars anywhere. Like you, I would largely prefer the WingBar Edge option but am Thule's documentation is confusing about the height and even more so about the usable width. By the way, nice choice of box. Thanks, stay safe. Best regards, Paul

Or what the locals call it: Oc-taa-vi-a. And Sch-ko-da. Fast forward to 0:45 to hear it: Also, it's a nice colour

LEDs need a resistor when used instead of a halogen bulb. Otherwise you get the check bulb error on the dash every time (resistance is how the computer knows bulbs are working or not). The resistors get incredibly hot. Also, you seem to live in Greece so you can't rely on an efficient ambient cooling. If you do this, make sure not to park near dry grass, OK? Other than that, good luck.

On the subject of the Subaru guy that set his car on fire: one should not extinguish this type of fire (electrical) with watter, if anything it might make matters worse. Knock on wood but should this happen what must be used is the dry (CO2) extinguisher that is mandatory anyway in cars.

Here's another link, more reputable if you will: https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/consumer-news/94753/dangers-of-illegal-hid-headlight-conversion-kits-explained There is an explanation of how the wiring may not take the requirements and how the casing will be damaged by excess heat and UV. At the end of the day, you will of course do as you wish but I hope you will make a responsible choice. Also, if it's for driving on deserted roads why not get proper additional lights (Hella and such) as those used in the remote parts of Scandinavia. A forum search will direct you to the relevant threads. Those are far better than any conversion kit.

Here is a quick example of why you shouldn't do this. Keep searching and it's not an isolated thing. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1660625

He says that the light beam is too strong unless you use the proper lens system. Halogen reflectors are designed for that specific output; if you swap the bulb for something that is 10 times brighter you might see better but other drivers will be blinded and might end up crashing into you. Also, it's illegal and your car might end up immobilized by the police. Last but not least, HID or LED have specific needs for heat management; there is a heat sink on OEM systems. I don't think it's a common issue but they might get very hot and melt something. So don't dazzle others and don't set your car on fire please

I second that said about the DSG. They have fixed it I think but the wet 6 speed on the vRS remains a more solid performer and handles power better then the dry 7 speed on the 1.8 TSI. Options I would advise: - heated seats (unless you live in the south) - heated windscreen (but check out a car that has it first; while it works great, I notice the threads in the glass and the vision is not so crisp) - the Canton sound system (better than the standard system but don't expect to be blown away by it) - adaptive cruise control (not standard on the 1.8) One thing I would advise caution against is the panoramic roof; it's awesome but it eats quite a lot into head room. I opted not to have because of that. Good luck finding the right car!

Hi. I went for the 1.8 TSI estate and so far I'm happy. It is slightly cheaper than the vRS, not as warm but quick enough, totally inconspicuous if that's your thing. For me the deal breaker was that I wanted the beige interior as I'm not a fan of black. So this was the only way to go. I like it a lot and don't regret my choice. Also, you get the famous independent rear suspension which is said to be better than the one on lesser powered models. Also, I rather like the classic elegant trim on the rev counters as opposed to the colour scheme they chose for the vRS. It doesn't have a stupid sound actuator. You can fit 16 inch wheels (cheaper) for your winter set. That said: - you get more support from vRS seats - you get bigger brake disks so marginally better braking - 40 bhp is something of a difference - you get a sportier suspension setup on the vRS and also the electronic diff - you can see the exhausts on the vRS As for estate vs hatch it's really up to you, my previous car was a mk II hatch. Once you get used to the cavernous boot you will fill it no matter how large it is. Perhaps the estate is ever so slightly more practical but I think your choice should rather be driven by your aesthetic preference than the odd 10-15 liters of extre space.

You're not alone Mine is a 2016 estate with 43k km on the clock. The creaking started on speed bumps at about 25k km. I don't have it when getting in and out, though. I also had the same behaviour on my previous Mk2 Octavia. I had that one checked multiple times and there was never anything wrong with it. I just sort of got used to it over time. The good thing is that never broke anything, it's just another kind of gremlin, if you will.

Just in case it is the door seal try greasing it yourself (any kind of silicone will probably work but I find that gummipflege works best). It often clears when you wash the car so I just reapply after each wash and things stay quiet. The again, it may be something completely different, as per above post

So what you are saying is that: You have CC set to x km/h; you then accelerate to x+10. While still at x+10 of you press SET that decreases to from the initially set x to x-1? Because in my car in the above situation it would just change the set speed to X+10. And of course pressing twice would first set to x+10 and on the second push drop to x+9. That's how mine works anyway. Hope you get it sorted. And don't get any speeding tickets in the process

When active, if you accelerate (overriding the cruise control) as you say, there are these options: - RES will act as "+" and increment the speed that is already set - if you simply lift off the acceleration (as CC is still active) it will just slow down and hold on to that previous speed - SET will match your current speed in the cruise control and hold on to it In case you decelerate by braking then CC is inactive. Pressing RES will resume previous speed while SET will adjust to your new (current) speed. If you just cruise at the set speed then pressing RES acts as "+" and SET will act as "-". The increment / decrement is of one unit per push. You may hold until the desired speed has been set.

There are other threads here regarding the coolant loss. Mine also had it, even though I drive it no different to previous cars. When I first serviced it I brought this up. They couldn't find any leak and said it will go away sometime before 30k km. No clear explanation why but the funny thing is it did. I have not had any change in its level and now all seems fine. Anyway, keep an eye on it and if needed ask them to check for leaks. Good luck

I have the same issue. I also experience a very notchy gear change from 1st to 2nd. Took it up to the dealer's to have a check. The mechanic explained that in order to ensure more reliable gearboxes they chose to fit each gear with 2 synchros (if that makes sense) or something like that. Long story short, that is why the shifting is slower and the smooth quick shifts of my Octavia 2 are long gone. But that should apprently improve durability. By the way, never had the reverse clunk/scratch on the O2 and yet I shift the exact same

Even though it may not be obvious (but then if they went so quickly I wouldn't expect to find much glue on the rim) you should still have each wheel checked. It really sounds like they are not balanced. Did you hit any major potholes? Have you been driving through dirt in such a way that dirt might get stuck on the rim and represent an uneven weight?

You should try looking into the settings in your infotainment (Car 》Settings 》Trip computer). You have the option to tick what you wish to have on your Maxidot and what you don't (oil temp., speed etc).

Well it is bent. Actually, it is the front one I presume (left in the picture; driver's side on LHD car). Car was new, didn't notice when I picked it up from the stealer's. Afterwards I checked for related problems but all seems fine. I inquired about repairs but they offered to change the whole seal and plastic. Too much of a hassle and at my expense. So as long as nothing happens I just came to live with it.

Here is what mine looks like

As for the gap I have the exact same thing. I tried forcing it into place but it stays offset. I did however check when pressure washing and there is no moisture coming in.

Did you get any fault codes? Does it also shudder when that happens? On my Octavia II diesel this was a symptom of a worn out DMF: once in a while it would fail restarting when the engine was warm and would send a loud bang and a shudder to the cabin. Another sign of that was a sort of grinding sound when idling in neutral.

Mine is a 2016 1,8 TSI. For its first year ~ 15k km (1/3 highway driving on long trips, 2/3 crawling in city traffic) it had a very slight drop (1 or 2 points) but no need to top it before getting serviced. In its second year, though, I have so far needed to fill about 0,6 L in 20k km and it keeps dropping. However I would say that most of it happened in Germany on the autobahn so I am not really surprised it used oil at those speeds. While on the subject: when asked about the dreaded water pump failure my dealer suggested that in order to keep the transmission in good shape it might be a good idea to keep the oil level up (instead of waiting for the computer to sound the alarm for low level) as it would somehow improve the wear on the transmission when the engine is cold. I'm unsure if it makes sense technically but I thought it can't hurt.