corndog

last squeek sounds a bit like a bush or something?? Could it be springs settling? I don't think it's a "known problem" but hopefully something straightforward. Did you change top mounts or any other parts at the same time?

will be fine and may roll out somehow. undertray off is pretty easy if on axle stands. wheel ramps or a high kerb might be enough too. Think they are torx 25 ish screws

I don't think lite works unfortunately (tried myself but no expert) i think iread you can register lite for $99 or something. Maybe that would work. Best bet would be to contact Rosstech

Is it ok to clamp the hose? I've read it is not advised. g uess there may be no alternative if you don't want to undo and clamp it on the banjo fitting. I did this with some 'welding' locking pliers and some rubber to seal it

I will likely need to bleed the ABS and am planning on doing this with VCDS when i can persuade my partner to help hahaha Do you think that could cause binding?

Still having problems with this guys. I should really book it in somewhere. One thing i have noticed- I can release the dragging front drivers side brake by slamming on brakes hard or preferably, coming to a stop then pressing pedal hard then releasing. I've replaced carriers, caliper and brake lines (all parts i wanted/ will use on my other Ibiza thankfully!) Seems to me the problem is a pipe above braided line/ another part of the brake system such as ABS/servo/master cylinder. I wonder if the disc and pads are cooked after all that brake drag, but then maybe pressing and releasing brake pressure would not solve the problem? I should really take it to a mechanic tbh but any obvious suggestions would be fantastic! Thanks

try 7zap.com and look through diagrams for octavia. Should be there

should be a switch in the glovebox to turn off passenger airbag. One in my Ibiza anyway! Light will be on I think. Do you need the light off?

I went with the solid Ibiza cupra ones. Original design is a voided bush which is a bit squishy. I'd say go with the Ibiza cupra ones or some polyurethane ones. I found it quite a difficult job but with the right tools it should be easy enough. Probably really easy if you take the console off the car There is a very small amount of wiggle at the top mounts and Ball joints but not enough to really get much camber adjustment. Worth a shot though If you have uneven camber side to side you could look at shifting the subframe a bit. Not too hard. Bolts are single use but people reuse them all the time

Thought i saw a bit of dirt on one of those wheels but it was on my computer screen... Very clean car you have there, photos look like they are straight from a magazine

I'm interested in the GTD turbos. Will be good to see how you get on!

taking it back seems like best option. Sorry, can't offer any more advice. I did have a few problems (binding) with my 312mm brakes but that was a damaged hose i think

32mm crows foot spanner and two extension bars worked well for me.

I spent ages trying to find the right shape crimping tool to do the inner clamp but never found one that looked like it would get in there. if anyone else know's which ones might work please share! Looks like the hose clips should work nicely at least

you tried changing lower balljoint? or droplinks? Maybe not the best to just throw parts at it but I know myself that it can be hard to find the source of the knocking! Is a cheap part but obviously adds up if you are paying labour on top use 7zap.com to look for parts

Unlikely as i've fitted a refurbed caliper and problem persists. Also, when i crack the bleed nipple on caliper *i think* it releases some of the binding. This would suggest it might be further up the hydraulic system. Been mostly ok recently. Thanks for the suggestion

as in swap carriers side to side. Never considered they are the same part. leaning towards it being that or a pipe blockage. Did seem to unjam when I released the drivers side bleed nipple so thinking it's more hydraulic related. Srill not taken it to a garage as it's not horrific and i'm not doing a lot of driving right now Thanks for the suggestion!

So had these in for a while. very impressed with the improved braking but i am getting intermittent binding i think. It's happening mostly on drivers side. Hub and caliper have been replaced in an attempt to fix binding (caliper a refurbed from ECP) I've had the brakes off and fiddled with loads which may have made things worse. So my guesses of potential issues include: Bent or otherwise wrecked carrier on drivers side (second hand one, not been changed) : some of the bits the pads slide on are a bit worn, maybe the pads are catching? Been regreased and it might have helped a bit(See picture) Damaged brake hose or rigid pipe causing pressure to remain past damage. I did get the brake to bind then cracked the bolt on the caliper end of the hose and it seemed to impprove it a bit suggesting something upstream of the caliper to me. Warped disc or damaged pads. I've not had a chance to check runout. Need a dial gauge and some washers so i can bolt the disc on proper with the wheel off Something wrong with ABS or master cylinder. (have not bled either but am considerring doing so if it may help? I don't know enough about how these work but have read up on how to bleed them I'm planning on taking it to a garage but if there is anything obvious that stands out i'd be most grateful for some help! Thanks

I use a socket with hexagon sides that i pass a allen bit through i use a large spanner on the socket and ratchet on allen bit I had to grind down the allen bit a little to get it through the hollow part in the socket. easy to tighten and untighten cost about £6 An impact gun will work too

Fuel cooler

nope. both remap to same as injectors are not limiting factor, turbo is. stock injectors can both go to 230bhp safe and up to 260 but apparently a bit to long duration at that power

They are slightly different. ASZ are 550cc and less good at low flow as far as i know. BLT are 500cc. If you put an ASZ map on BLT or vice versa it will not work right because of injectors They are much the same but require different maps The EGR is different but not in function as far as i know. ASZ is vacumn actuated and has no EGR cooler and BLT has an EGR cooler plus electronic actuated EGR. BLT EGR and anti shudder valve is two pieces but EGR and ASV on ASZ are one unit ETA: Don't know the torque as never been on a dyno. not listed on blacksmoke website but it should be around 250-290ish lbf I did not want EGR mapped out so asked for both the EGR delete map and EGR intact maps. Got both for £45

Is it a BLT engine code? People say they are usually around 150 from factory despite being sold as 130. Mine is ASZ whch is an earlier engine code with less power from stock map but apparently maps to very much the same. Injectors are slightly different so I can't just stick a BLT map on my ASZ. Mine has. blacksmoke "165hp" remap file on it and considerably more powerful than before map. Still need more hahaha

Rear anti roll bar and a remap are best in my bet Whiteline rear anti roll bar is good for road. As said by other folk, make sure you have good rear tyres and understand that the rear end can slide out but in my experience it has never happened except with **** tyres Decent coilovers/ shocks set up. (depends what you want comfort/performance wise) Good front tyres and decent alignment. Check subframe for any misalignment, might be apparent with a ruler on variouis points or a scrape where it has shifted Check all your suspension joints/bushes. wishbone bushes are crap unless the solid ones are used (most people use solid when replacing) Look for ibiza cupra ones or powerflex or similar ones I'm happy with my blacksmoke £40 (search google) remap but a custom one is likely to be better just a lot more expensive. If using blacksmoke you will need a MPPS cable, computer and the software A remap may break weak/end of life turbos and clutches Mr muscle turbo clean! clean out EGR/intake of caked on crap 312mm brakes are a huge improvement boost pipes have crap extruded bits that wear down. You can use screws or similar to hold the pipework together Service it Most of these are maintnance rather than mods but they will essentilly be mods on an old car unless already done in last few years.

Thanks hahaha I saw those instructions but didn't really read through as it's mostly about the rear one. short attention span! It is very nice so far and hasn't knocked yet but not really put it to the test. Turn in does seem a bit snappier and front now seems to roll less and more in line with rear. I have it on the stiffer setting and my whiteline RARB is on stiffest