Papez

Interesting, it looks like they just put together two auxiliary levers (the one that's in front of the gear lever) and moved the pivot upwards to compensate. It's obviously meant only for hard motor mounts, since it lacks the secondary rod which compensates for engine movements.

My mechanic had an interesting comment, according to him, he never had to adjust valve clearence on gasoline Felicias until ~2010's. Wonder if it's due to age of the cars, or due to changes in fuel quality. Afaik, even carburettor Favorit 135/136 engines had aluminium pushrods on inlet. Did they roll back to steel all around on Felicia?

Even stock distributor is independent from carburettor. It just gives some ignition timing based on few input. ECU can easily replicate this behaviour. Problem is, as you said before, the 123 doesn't have curves for Skoda engine. Vrba's solution is build and programmed specifically for Skoda engines (but I guess it'll be more expensive as well) I'm not saying that 123 cannot be better than the stock distributor - just that no distributor is even better. These engines can have quite loose camshaft timing, so getting the timing chain out of ignition system can only help.

It was originally developed for motorsport, but they have road variants as well, with maps for stock engines. It also uses stock components where it can, the only custom part is the ECU. The main advantage compared to distributor based system is that it takes its ignition timing from the crankshaft, which is more precise.

I found an ignition system specifically made for Skoda engines. They even have version that uses MPI ignition module to get rid of distributor. However, it seems that it lacks any sort of vacuum advancement. https://www.vrbamotorsport.cz/programovatelne-zapalovani Edit: according to this article, they can use throttle sensor for advancement, they also have a variant with pressure sensor for turbocharged engines and for flywheel sensor used on SPI/MPI Felicia (I wonder if carburettor engine uses the same flywheel as injection Felicias?). This would allow you to use the distributor system as a backup.

Found this https://epowering.cz/skoda-felicia-dilenska-prirucka-elektrika/ If you don't mind Czech, "Elektrická schémata" should be a complete bundle of wiring for all variants.

Hi, any progress on this?

This seems to be a standard equipment for all Felicias sold in Germany. I wonder if there were any legislation requirements back then.

A fine mesh can filter out most of that. But yes, it will end up on evaporator. But it needs regular cleaning anyway

G12 should have better corrosion protection, which is crucial on these engines. But you have to flush the engine properly, as G11 and G12 don't mix well. G12+ supposedly mixes better with G11, but I wouldn't risk it.

Or they took inspiration in IT. HDMI and USB naming is just mess.

The evap drain is there even if the AC doesn't run. There should be also an intake drain - or at least there is on non-ac cars. The sponge really just creates a humidifier. Not the best thing when you want to demist the windshield.

I think that doesn't matter that much, when coolant spreads heat by convention. But I wonder how much lower heat capacity limits heat transfer.

I can think of 3 reasons of seized engine: hydrolock, valve/piston collision due to skipped timing chain, or something's stuck due to corrosion. Were you able to turn the engine with plugs out? Valves do open at right crank position?

Ok, I'll do the math for you. Felicia has 5,6l of coolant. Let's ignore part of coolant that's the radiolator, which doesn't circulate until the thermostat opens. To heat up 5,6l of water by 72K, you'll need 1.69MJ of heat. A -20 mixture is around 35% of glycol. That means 1.96l of glycol, 3,64l of water. I'll ignore difference in density, it's not that big. You need 342kJ for glycol, 1097kJ for water, that's 1,44MJ total. So total difference is 249kJ. To put that into perspective, the engine block takes around 5,2MJ of heat. So if your engine heats up in 10mins, it's around 10kJ/s of heat going into the engine. So, in this situation, the different coolant makes at most 25s of difference.

Water has heat capacity 4.186J/gK, ethylene glycol, used in antifreeze, 2.42J/gK. No need to experiment, you can do the math. Just make proper mixture for your weather conditions. There's really no point in trying to slightly reduce heat capacity of 4l of water, when you need to heat up 80kilos of metal. Also, I think that facelift Felicia uses G12, not G11.

4th speed bypasses the resistor pack, so if it doesn't work, there might be an issue with fuse, wiring or the motor itself. Check connector to the motor - it's in the engine bay, on the side of the ventilation inlet, white 2 pin connector. It often corrodes burns due to increased resistance.

I think I understand, thanks.

Ah, I thought of that. I just for some reason imagined something that would go under the dashboard 😃 What's your plan to do that? Some 3D printed casing to replicate the Alex housing?

What do you mean by this?

1st on AC fan is stronger than the only speed on non-ac car. It should be enough to cool the radiator with AC off. The 2nd usually kicks in earlier with AC on, based on refrigerant pressure. The 2nd thermoswitch is more like a backup and in this case, it's still lower than factory setting on a non-ac car.

The wider rim comes from Pickup. Original 13 inch alloy rims were also same size. Since it stretches the tire, it'll be a little bit more stable.

It's not, it's point when the thermostat valve fully opens, making the most efficient use of the fan.

There's an air duct behind the head unit, that would transfer the noise to the upper vents. Checked the schematics and I was wrong saying that everything's disconnected with fuses out - the stereo's fuse is on the device itself and its input is always live.

I read on Czech forums, that the problematic parts are O-rings around injectors and replacing them with Fabia ones will do the trick. That would line-up with no mention of the 1.6 engine.