Papez

The evap drain is there even if the AC doesn't run. There should be also an intake drain - or at least there is on non-ac cars. The sponge really just creates a humidifier. Not the best thing when you want to demist the windshield.

I think that doesn't matter that much, when coolant spreads heat by convention. But I wonder how much lower heat capacity limits heat transfer.

I can think of 3 reasons of seized engine: hydrolock, valve/piston collision due to skipped timing chain, or something's stuck due to corrosion. Were you able to turn the engine with plugs out? Valves do open at right crank position?

Ok, I'll do the math for you. Felicia has 5,6l of coolant. Let's ignore part of coolant that's the radiolator, which doesn't circulate until the thermostat opens. To heat up 5,6l of water by 72K, you'll need 1.69MJ of heat. A -20 mixture is around 35% of glycol. That means 1.96l of glycol, 3,64l of water. I'll ignore difference in density, it's not that big. You need 342kJ for glycol, 1097kJ for water, that's 1,44MJ total. So total difference is 249kJ. To put that into perspective, the engine block takes around 5,2MJ of heat. So if your engine heats up in 10mins, it's around 10kJ/s of heat going into the engine. So, in this situation, the different coolant makes at most 25s of difference.

Water has heat capacity 4.186J/gK, ethylene glycol, used in antifreeze, 2.42J/gK. No need to experiment, you can do the math. Just make proper mixture for your weather conditions. There's really no point in trying to slightly reduce heat capacity of 4l of water, when you need to heat up 80kilos of metal. Also, I think that facelift Felicia uses G12, not G11.

4th speed bypasses the resistor pack, so if it doesn't work, there might be an issue with fuse, wiring or the motor itself. Check connector to the motor - it's in the engine bay, on the side of the ventilation inlet, white 2 pin connector. It often corrodes burns due to increased resistance.

I think I understand, thanks.

Ah, I thought of that. I just for some reason imagined something that would go under the dashboard 😃 What's your plan to do that? Some 3D printed casing to replicate the Alex housing?

What do you mean by this?

1st on AC fan is stronger than the only speed on non-ac car. It should be enough to cool the radiator with AC off. The 2nd usually kicks in earlier with AC on, based on refrigerant pressure. The 2nd thermoswitch is more like a backup and in this case, it's still lower than factory setting on a non-ac car.

The wider rim comes from Pickup. Original 13 inch alloy rims were also same size. Since it stretches the tire, it'll be a little bit more stable.

It's not, it's point when the thermostat valve fully opens, making the most efficient use of the fan.

There's an air duct behind the head unit, that would transfer the noise to the upper vents. Checked the schematics and I was wrong saying that everything's disconnected with fuses out - the stereo's fuse is on the device itself and its input is always live.

I read on Czech forums, that the problematic parts are O-rings around injectors and replacing them with Fabia ones will do the trick. That would line-up with no mention of the 1.6 engine.

That knob is fully mechanical. It moves flaps directly through Bowden cables.

Yes, the two blocks are heater blower and the resistor block. So it's not the blower motor. As of what it is - I have no idea. All devices in the interior should be disconnected with fuses removed. And I don't think that bad contact would be this audible without causing a fire. Could it be some incorrectly wired device added by a previous owner and hidden behind the dashboard?

The overall power is same or lower as 1.8T conversions, so it's not any worse than that 😃

110kW ARL - that's one of PD engines I mentioned. Similar engine was used in Fabia RS. The engine is an early TDI with rotary injection pump, used in MK3/MK4 golf. Those had 210-235Nm. They swapped the gearbox, too, the weakest points are now driveshafts and car's body itself.

The weakest stock 1.8T has 210Nm of torque, which is same as stock TDI. I don't see a point of this conversion, heavier, weaker, same effort to get it in. If they used a more modern PD unit, it'd be a different story

Fuel gauge is calibrated in a different menu. As you said, it uses factory float, so it's not very precise.

That's a valve to shut off the engine (as 1.9D has mechanical injection pump and no pump in the tank). Not an inertial switch.

I checked the wiring, there's no interconnection between airbag control unit and fuel pump relay. There's only a data line between the airbag unit and ECU - so if there's any blocking going on, it's done by the ECU itself. But I haven't found any info confirming that. Searching Czech forums, I found one case where a crashed airbag-equipped Felicia didn't start - and it was due to wiring damage around the fuel pump.

Which part of the car is damaged? Have you checked voltage on the fuel pump? I found that airbag unit is able to turn off the engine on newer Skoda models (not sure about Felicia), but nothing about blocking of the next start

That's true. But unless there's a Ford cutoff switch that fits Felicia, it is not relevant information. That was point I wanted to make. @J.R. Didn't want provide any proof that Felicia has such switch, so we can rule out their information as incorrect.

Ok, I'll reiterate what I've said: Don't discuss Fords in Skoda Felicia forum unless there's a verifiable connection between the two. That is not this case. 1) I never said you didn't 2) if you mean brakes, those were based on Girling licence of a similar model to Ford. But they weren't made by Ford. That's like saying a 10mm bolt was made by Ford for Skoda, because there are same bolts on a Ford.