Papez

I won't but stock Felicia brakes are already at limit even with a stock engine. They lack cooling capacity, because they are too small and non-vented. So it should be part of mods with the engine swap. Luckily, Felicia brakes are a Girling licence, same model as contemporary Ford models, so calipers from the Mondeo are a near perfect fit (I think there was a topic about it on this forum, too), I think that some versions even have the same piston diameter, so they won't throw the brake balance off. Getting discs that fit with them is bigger issue, but there are configurations that work without any dangerous hacking.

I think that Felicia uses the same system as contemporary Polo/Lupo/Ibiza - these cars later used slightly more modern systems, with ASR (Felicia only had EDS option, because it didn't have electronic throttle). ESP was available, too, but that'd probably be too complex to build into a totally different car. Bigger brakes are necessity for Felicia - I was able to overheat the stock brakes with the 1.3... They are just too small for the car. Yes, Sierra/Mondeo calipers and I thik Kia Picanto? discs were easy way to vented 256mm.

This sound like an interesting project. I'm interested in how long the stock gearbox lasts torque of the AHU. The electric steering is interesting idea, I've seen some Felicia with an electric pump, but electric steering is new.. Btw, what is your plan with brakes?

I'd guess the opposite - the filter for dusty environments have larger filtering area, so it'll take more time before it saturates with particles. But even ordinary filter should work well - I've been using Mann filters on my Felly without issues.

I believe that different filter created different ratio between the intake pressure and amount of air. You'll need some time before the ECU adapts.

I don't think that the immobilizer was the culprit - if it blocks the engine, it starts, but cuts out after about 1 sec. What year is your car? Early ECUs had some issues with the warm starts, where it needed a bit of throttle to start. Also, bad temperature sensor readings can lead to this behaviour, as well as a bad contact. About spark plug video - the ignition module needs both spark plugs connected to an ignition coil to work properly, as it is a wasted spark ignition system.

No, you need Fabia pistons, they have wrist pin 3mm higher. And various mod on crankshaft itself to fit it into the 13x block

That is normal, here's picture of Favorit blok with Skoda HG Favorit had newly designed head, but the block has been only slightly modified 130 - that's why it doesn't line up perfectly.

How it's going, were you able to remove the head?

From what I've found, 22,2 is used on estate with pressure regulator too. Estate 136M has pressure regulator on the rear axle,not sure about other 1.3s. Non-abs 1.6 and 1.9 have regulator even as Hb, which is why they have larger rear cylinders.

That'd be way too low, it is under the headlamp. Yes, it is. Years ago, I've even seen progress photos, but I don't know if I'd be able to find them.

No, besides it is only hole for the factory foglight. Air inlet ends in the front panel, behind the bumper brace.

It's a gearbox protection. It covers lowest part of the gearbox. No, grille is just decorative, behind it is hole for a towing eye.

They overdid it with HDR on first photos. I don't know why, this colour looks quite interesting on a NF Felly. But why, from all the choices, they went with an Octavia steering wheel?

I didn't find this mentioned in the workshop manual. Common practice is to resurface the head when the gasket is changed.

That depends. The liner height has to be measured, it might end up being fine. The switch probably didn't work because of air bubble trapped in the radiator (it happened to me, too) - in that case, lower threshold won't help.

That's normal on these engines - HG blows around cylinder liner first (sometimes because the liner sinks into the block), oil passages stay tight for some time. But I wouldn't drive it like that for long. You're risking overheating and further deformation of the block.

Thanks for the input Unfortunately, 1.4TDI runs a lot rougher than both 1.9s. Just out of interest, whats wrong with polybushes on the RS?

We are in Fabia subforum I have a different car for some time (not Fabia, but close relative on the same platform), but Felly still lives in family.

That sounds like HG failure or cracked head - that might still be repairable. I think this is not the end, Your Felly will be good again.

I'm more after noise reduction than handling and I'm assuming that A2 bushes might be more suitable for this engine, as they were developed for it (gasoline engines had different part) - in contrast with Fabia, which initially had universal soft bushes that failed with diesel engines, later replaced with part taken from the Octavia.

Hello, Front arm console bushes on my car will need replacement - and I'm thinking, if anyone tried solid bushes from TDI Audi A2? I found some reports on Cupra and similar "heavy duty" parts being unsuitable for this engine due to vibrations, but A2 ones should be softer, as they were used with this engine exclusively - anyone can tell if they are better than standard reinforced "X" bushes in terms of noise, longetivity and/or handling? Thanks

It's getting worse. Skoda doesn't manufacture original parts for a few years now, so in some cases, scrapyard is only chance to get decent parts. But that supply is getting thinner, too..

1.6 has different bracket (6U0199186), that is screwed in same area as 1.3. Assembly of the engine mount and bracket with bushing looks like this: The part called "cantilever" is probably this one (032199155) - it goes between the engine mount and engine block.

Voltage should be close to 14V - Magneton alternators used in 1.3 have poor performance at idle, but if it goes below 13V with no load at idle, something's wrong.