Papez

I didn't find this mentioned in the workshop manual. Common practice is to resurface the head when the gasket is changed.

That depends. The liner height has to be measured, it might end up being fine. The switch probably didn't work because of air bubble trapped in the radiator (it happened to me, too) - in that case, lower threshold won't help.

That's normal on these engines - HG blows around cylinder liner first (sometimes because the liner sinks into the block), oil passages stay tight for some time. But I wouldn't drive it like that for long. You're risking overheating and further deformation of the block.

Thanks for the input Unfortunately, 1.4TDI runs a lot rougher than both 1.9s. Just out of interest, whats wrong with polybushes on the RS?

We are in Fabia subforum I have a different car for some time (not Fabia, but close relative on the same platform), but Felly still lives in family.

That sounds like HG failure or cracked head - that might still be repairable. I think this is not the end, Your Felly will be good again.

I'm more after noise reduction than handling and I'm assuming that A2 bushes might be more suitable for this engine, as they were developed for it (gasoline engines had different part) - in contrast with Fabia, which initially had universal soft bushes that failed with diesel engines, later replaced with part taken from the Octavia.

Hello, Front arm console bushes on my car will need replacement - and I'm thinking, if anyone tried solid bushes from TDI Audi A2? I found some reports on Cupra and similar "heavy duty" parts being unsuitable for this engine due to vibrations, but A2 ones should be softer, as they were used with this engine exclusively - anyone can tell if they are better than standard reinforced "X" bushes in terms of noise, longetivity and/or handling? Thanks

It's getting worse. Skoda doesn't manufacture original parts for a few years now, so in some cases, scrapyard is only chance to get decent parts. But that supply is getting thinner, too..

1.6 has different bracket (6U0199186), that is screwed in same area as 1.3. Assembly of the engine mount and bracket with bushing looks like this: The part called "cantilever" is probably this one (032199155) - it goes between the engine mount and engine block.

Voltage should be close to 14V - Magneton alternators used in 1.3 have poor performance at idle, but if it goes below 13V with no load at idle, something's wrong.

This was introduced on later models of Estelle, thermostatic flap that automatically kept intake air temp around 30° - in Felicia, there's flap inside of the airbox that closes once engine heats up, I'm not sure what exact temperature is, but I guess there's some hysteresis, as the flap stays closed for quite some time after the engine is turned off. Part that has fallen is just adapter that should be connected to warm air intake hose. Cold air hose is hidden beneath the airbox and goes through front wall.

It's warm air intake, which should be connected to hose going to exhause heat shield. It seems that the hose got shredded by belt..

In 1.9, thermostat is in coolant pump housing.

Switch in the starter makes contact even when pinion is not fully extended, so it's possible that starter spins for a moment without load (that happens quite often when engine starts sucesfully, it's just barely noticeable over engine noise), especially if there's unreliable contact to solenoid.

From what I've read, this is true - GL5 was developed for hypoid gears, typically used in differential. It typically had higher contents of sulphur/phosphor additives, which cause corrosion of bronze syncro rings. However, there are cars that have transaxles with hypoid gears (typically 4WD, like Audi) so oils with GL5 specification that could be used in gearbox were desirable, so they probably developed new additives to get oils that are capable to work in both GL4 and GL5 specs.

Starter motor sounds fine, but if you have issues with starting on key, it could be bad ignition switch - it directly engages starter's solenoid, which causes contact wear over time. The sensor in photo is knock sensor - it's there to detect "sound" of detonation, so ECU can change timing if detonation occurs.

Fabia is VW based, so its shocks are different. Favorit has similar shocks, but they have too soft rating for the pickup, plus Felicia pickup have different rear shocks, without spring plate. Try searching with OEM codes: 6U7413031 A/B front 6U7413031 C/D front for models with ABS 6U7513031 A/B rear. Unfortunately, I don't know what's the exact difference between variants.

1.9D should have 3 speed fan and different resistor - 6U0959263A - are you sure you have 4 speed one?

1.9D has two speed fan, with 95 and 102 degree switching points. First speed goes through resistor, it's possible that it has burnt. Or it can be fuse or other electrical issue. You can test the fan by disconnecting plug from switch in radiator and shorting contacts in the plug by piece of wire for short time - according to schematics, 3rd pin is +12V input, 2nd pin is 1st stage and 1st pin is 2nd stage.

Iirc, original supplier was NGK, and Bosch units were reported as less reliable. If the sensor won't fail entirely, it won't generate an error code, it requires skilled technician and maybe even exhaust gas probe to check proper function. By tapping I meant that idle almost doesn't increase - it seems that deactivation of idle switch in throttle body is enough.

What brand of lambda did you use? Also, did you change gasket between exhaust manifold and head? This function of higher idle RPM seems to be based on temperature - it generally took longer to settle in winter, than in summer. So I'd try temp sensors readings, thermostat valve function and lambda heater. Plus, one interesting thing, I could often "kick down" rpm by tapping gas pedal, often shortly after starting. How do you perform an ECU reset?

This is an MPI engine. There's no fuel going to throttle body. You can se injector rail on intake. What's the weather like when this happens? I had issues caused by condensation inside of ignition module, when it's isolation cracked. However, this sounds more like there's issue with starter motor or battery/wiring. However, it's all wild guess without diagnostics...

So you need to help starter by pushing it down the hill? There's no carburettor, that thing on the top is just a throttle valve.

I was talking about some more modern, like VW's TSI Engines that also "dump" fuel to exhaust to not overheat turbo and converter at high loads In felly, there's some hysteresis - you need around 2000RPM to initiate cutoff, but then it can go to 1500ish before it starts again. Not sure why it's programmed that way.