Papez

Those are seats from Felicia with side airbags. Backrest frames come from Octavia, but they have modified mounting so they could be bolted to Felicia base.

The basic fabric upholstery is quite durable. Mine only started to show some wear when the foam torn and frame went through. When I noticed it, I quickly fixed it and the seats lasted another tens of thousands km until I sold them. They probably still ride around in another Felicia. Oh, at one point, I had to replace the frame as well, as it cracked near the base.

That has more to do with poor quality of the mechanism on the electric windows. For some reason, they used harder and thinner plastic on the tube and it can crack just from flex during installation (ask me how I know). I replaced mine with tube from a manual mechanism and it worked well.

There's a twin cam that works well in Felicia - 1.4/1.6 16V from 6N Polo sport/GTI. Maybe that would make it easier to fit in the Estelle. There's also an aluminium block version used in later 6Ns and Lupo, which shouldn't be much heavier than the original engine.

The originals are the best from comfort standpoint - they have touch auto roll up/down with pinch protection, IMO, electric windows without that are pointless. Here's an installation guide in Czech, that includes wiring diagrams as well - it should be easy to translate with Google. https://www.feliciaklub.cz/navody/elektricke-ovladani-oken-2.html It's also possible to modify the regulators to rear doors just by swapping the rear rail onto them and they allow for secondary button, since the same motors were used in VW T4 (but with different window mechanism) The disadvantage is that they are hard to come by and they weren't cheap. You may be able to get second hand, but the plastic Bowden tube is often damaged - but it's repairable and there are 3rd party spares available. There were also some conversion kits sold by Skoda themselves, which had metal tubes and were also available for rear windows, but those are probably even harder to get. The last option is generic conversion kit that just turns the crank for you. These all have same basic connection, where the button itself turns the voltage and all you need to do is get 2 wires to the door.

I had a similar issue in Felicia. The backrest is just too low. I liked Airbag seats, which had longer backrest frame from Octavia and could be equipped with a adjustable headrest (and adjustable lumbar support), unfortunately it's not an option with limited edition seats.. unless you pay quite a lot for new upholstery.

What does this mean? Switch on the radiator? Coolant temp sensor? Intake air temperature sensor? I didn't see mention of the fuel filter replacement. I'd try that, especially if the car didn't run for a long time. Another thing would be check for exhaust leaks - Felicia has oxygen sensor after the flex pipe, a leak there could throw the readings off. (This happened on my car with a similar VW engine) Did any of the mechanics do proper diagnostic reading, i.e. check the values instead just the fault codes?

As I stated above, it's not OK. For Felicia, only the 1.6 is fine to use it. 1.3 MPI - E10 may damage the seals on the fuel pressure regulator and Skoda recommends replacement. For all other variants of the Skoda OHV engine in Felicia and older models, the E10 fuel is not recommended - but the concern is around the rubber/plastic parts in the fuel system, not the engine itself, so YMMV.

95RON is what these engines were built for. The 54HP variant of 1.3 could run even on 91. The reason people recommend higher octane fuel is, because most of these fuels have lower amount of ethanol in them. Ethanol can potentially cause issues in older cars - in Felicia, it depends on engine, 1.6 should be fine, 1.3 MPI should be fine after change of injector seals from Fabia, I'm not sure about the SPI - you didn't write which engine you have. Edit: found more precise info, distributed by Skoda - the problematic part are fuel regulator seals, PN 047198031 - it's not available from Skoda, but there are alternatives.

Most oil pans, even alloy ones, are flat, Estelle's got fins inside and outside specifially to improve the heat transfer. But once they moved engine to the front, they reverted to simpler stamped steel pan... Whether it was because of the reason you mention, or because the front engine is more likely to get a hit. The cooling system didn't change since Favorit. In fact, the radiator is inherited from Estelle So VW didn't have their fingers in that. I really only had this issue after pushing the engine near the end of the oil change interval. Anyway, I regularly used the full range of the tachometer and the engine has done 320k km, so it wasn't fragile at all 😃 But on highways, I cruised at 3500RPM in most cases. Only the diesel ones. But the heat exhcange block from the diesel is often used as an upgrade. I don't understand the logic by which VW fitted the oil cooler to their engines.. 1.6 AEE in Felicia didn't have one, same with 1.4 16V, both 74 and 100BHP variants, but 1.6 16V, which is basically AEE with the 1.4 head, had it... Nowadays, I think that only the 1.0 N/A doesn't have it. They are 8V, but relatively wide camshaft, especially compared to the VW equivalent. I experienced torque drop between 2000-2500RPM in two different cars, the peak moved up as the chain stretched with use... The sweet spot was between 2500-3500, the engine was economical, but elastic. I could regularly achieve sub 6l consumption, with record on a 150km being 5,3l/100km, while keeping the engine in this range.

The windscreen has the same shape, but Favorit doesn't have mount for the center mirror.

Your car has an oil cooler, too - on Estelle's, the alloy oil pan served as a replacement for an actual oil cooler that was used in 110 and early 120LS models. It's primitive, but it serves the purpose. It's quite common on 90's cars as well, at least the oil/coolant type - even diesel Felicia has it. Funny when you talk about this - I was reading through Favorit manual, looking for the line that it shouldn't be ran above 3500 that I remember - I didn't find it, but towing part mentioned that it shouldn't drive faster than 80km/h during towing - even if trailer and legislation allows it. It also mentions shifting up as soon as possible due to cooling limitations. Do you have an oil thermometer? Oil can go well over 100 degrees in high load conditions, like highway driving, without cooling. I managed to overheat my Felicia's oil once, after driving 20min at 140km/h (around 4k RPM) - the oil pressure light started to flash, because the oil became too thin.

The green section is the most economical area (Felicia has extended it to 3500RPM), keeping the engine beyond leads to higher consumption, but it can also overheat the engine oil, since these engines lack an oil cooler. But it will survive accelerations all the way to the red area, if they are not frequent and the engine is at correct temp.

I checked the factory manual, it doesn't say anything about different springs on the rear axle. However, 419mm length sounds like a passenger Felicia spring. Pickups have different rear axle with 340mm springs... The 1.3/1.6 will be likely different stiffness, but same ride height. I found some inserts designed for Pickup, however they are not road legal. https://www.sp-el.cz/sada-2-podlozek-zadnich-tlumicu-felicia-pickup-/-pick-up-/-fun

I'd still try to inspect all soldering joints around the gauge, there's chance one of them is cracked. If it is, you'll get free spare cluster 😁

12V at the both sides of the indicator lamp is correct - it's operated by a transistor, which typically connects load to the ground, as this type of transistor is cheaper and overall circuitry is simpler. Same case with the gauge. There should be an 8V stabiliser in the cluster, so 8V measured on gauges is correct. As with the lamp, it's likely that top of gauges is connected directly to the voltage input and a transistor is operated between ground and gauge - this can be the failure point, a transistor can fail and be stuck in shorted state. Voltage drop on the yellow cable is indeed caused by sender's resistance and it's correct function - the voltage should correspondent with the fuel level.

This is diagram for wiring, the functional blocks are extremely simplified, just to show basic function of the block. Both gauge and lamp are operated by the operational amplifier chip. Combination of resistors and capacitors around it provides delay, that prevents oscillating of the needle because of fuel sloshing around, and signal for the lamp to go off once voltage gets below set threshold. The lamp also requires some transistor, because OA isn't able to drive a lightbulb directly. Any open solder or burnt component can cause bad signal for the gaige. But it will be quite hard to pinpoint the root cause without the complete circuit diagram.

Do you have the diagram? This definitely isn't correct. The lamp cannot be operated directly by the float, because the current would be too high and the lamp would illuminate gradually instead of going off instantly. Unfortunately I wasn't able to find schematics of the instrument panel, I only found information, that the gauge is operated through cluster of operational amplifiers in the LM2902N chip. Something like bad resistor can cause output to be stuck at full voltage, or the chip could be burned. Unfortunately I cannot say more without full schematic diagram.

That was later in production, originally it was full shroud, but with an extra fan So it could be combination of both factors... Small radiator blocked by the evaporator and shroud. For reference, the 1.6 radiator is 285x590, 1.6AC is 322x590. There was also Favorit rad for hot climates, that had same dimensions as the 1.6, but 1.3 outlets - that would suggest that the stock rad indeed doesn't have much headroom... Unfortunately that radiator probably wouldn't fit on an AC Felicia, even if you were lucky enough to get one. BTW, I also experienced slightly higher temps on highway during heatwave. That was with small fan and without AC. But also stock 20YO radiator.

Felicia Radiator was originally designed for Skoda 120 - a car with nearly half the power and no AC condenser in front of it. The fan shroud was designed for larger 1.6 radiator that doesn't cover around 10cm on the right side... Add current heat waves and sediments over past 25 years.. I wouldn't be surprised if the rad was insufficient. Does the Grande Punto come with AC? I think I have better comparison - Fabia with 1.4 Skoda engine. Non-AC - 6Q0 121 253 AE dimensions - 430x413x23 AC - 6Q0 121 253 R dimensions - 632x414 (ETKA doesn't list thickness, but I found 23mm aswell?) The larger rad was used for 2.0 engine. Another case is Felicia 1.6, which used larger rad for AC version. I think it's another case of "good enough", as they didn't want to rework the cooling circuit to fit a larger rad... It will work, but you can hit it's limits pretty soon.

Imo this is how it should be, assuming that the bottom red line is 90°C. Felicia has working temp at 90°C to reduce heat losses and there's no reason to run 80° thermostat from the older Skodas. FYI, on a 1 speed fan, which has lower power and covers smaller area than your 2 speed one, the stock setting is 97° +-3 - somewhere around your 2nd speed. Either to reduce fan's duty cycle, increase delta, or both. That's what Skoda deemed acceptable, so if engine operates within these conditions, it should be fine. Personally, I didn't like it and fit 80° thermoswitch from Skoda 120, which resulted in similar operation to yours (without the 2nd speed)

My point is that this is not the right assumption in case of Felicia. They did use safety systems and engines from VW, and Felicia had a similar design language to Polo.. but that's where similarity ends. So it's better to not rely on finding parts in the VW parts bucket. That's overall advice when dealing with Felicia repairs and service - it's no different from previous Skoda models (=it's becoming impossible to get actually good quality spare parts) Looking into catalogue, it seems that the maxgearnpart is for an LHD Felicia. RHD is a different part (6U2721335A/E/G)

Felicia is not a VW. It's a facelifted Favorit, only fraction of the parts was carried over from contemporary VWs. Fir example, the 1.6 is a VW engine, but it used an adaptor plate to mate it to Skoda gearbox. Unfortunately that means that the cable is also Favorit/Felicia specific part. @Schloompa Is your Fun equipped with AC? Some cables and hoses were specific for variants with AC to clear the larger heater box, but I'm not sure if that includes the clutch cable.

What thermostat do you have? With a 90°C thermostat, the gauge should be around the yellow line. If you have a 80°C thermostat, which was common in warmer climates, the observed behaviour would be correct. The engine heats up by around 5-10° before hot water reaches the thermoswitch. If it reliably turns on bellow the red line, it should be fine. If it's still unreliable, the cause could be gas bubbles caused by HG leak.

If the picture is correct, this is 1.3 engine mount. That indeed isn't compatible with 1.6. The bottom gearbox mount is also different - 1.6/1.9 uses larger diameter mount and the metal brackets is slightly angled, because the VW engine is mounted higher than the Skoda one. But I cannot tell which is which just from picture.