Oli

Just a quick update. I ‘ve had the fuel lines (injector loom) to the injectors replaced but that didn’t change anything. The seals and washers for the injectors have been replaced (twice now) and the plastic rocker cover or cam cover has now been changed. This included a seal set, gasket, new oil filler cap and all washers/orings. Looking at the engine from the front the two left injectors remain bone dry. The well nearest to the oil filler is pooling a little bit of oil again. Most of the oil is on the left of the pairing that recess (number 3?) injector but 4 (nearest the filler) is wet too. After a 50miles round trip there a few ml of oil. Does anyone have any advice of where to look now? Small aside anyone have any idea why the previous garage has rubbed off details at the top of the injectors? Here’s some photos of the current oil state:

Would anyone have any advice for updates for our 2018 Karoq? I don’t know what the most reasonable version I should be running is. Any help or advice much appreciated.

I am going with the rocker/valve covers or the gasket. Going to follow this guide:

We have a 2008 Karoq 1.6TDI and there’s oil pooling in the injector wells on top of the valve cover. The oil seems to be starting to pool near to the injector nearest to the oil filler. I have had the injector seals and washers changed for new ones but it still persists. I have also swapped the injector loom as there was a little diesel mixed in it. That’s now cured but the oil is still appearing. It’s not a fast leak, about 1ml a mile. Has anyone else had this? I’m led to believe that the rocker/valve covers can crack and cause this. It is my next port of call. I can’t see anywhere else where the oil would get from the engine to the top cover.

Anyone know the parts and procedure or done this before? The lower window seal for the back doors is slightly misaligned and popping up at the edges and the rubber trim piece itself it beginning to degrade. I was looking at popping it off and replacing the rubber piece. If anyone has any advice on the bits needed and how it is done it’d be appreciated

Lots of sudden spontaneous errors all linked that relate to drivetrain and wheels can sometimes be a dodgy wheel sensor or fault with the wiring, or control unit that those areas connect to. Seems more likely to be electrical gremlins to me.

So I can confirm our part number was indeed the non suffix version 5TC 837 016. There’s a decent guide on the door card removal here however it’s a bit short of some details: The removal of the door lock cylinder means removal of the black bolt and unscrewing the smaller torx and then pushing the screw inwards. This is shown here on a similar car: You’ll also find that a wiring loom is attached on clips to the door lock itself. These need to be carefully unclipped to extract the door lock. I am still none the wiser what has been done on the new versions of the lock and what the differences are. I may well take this faulty one to bits to see where the flaw lies. I bet there are micro switches in there that are broken or shorter.

Is it essential to puncture the plastic to pop the filler cover out? I presume it is designed to be a one fit deal?

Having what appears to be the usual KESSY and door lock problems on a 2018 Karoq. Door locks seem to go into auto lock spasm mode when driving away and car will randomly lock sometimes when the door is open. I am going to plug in the diagnostic to see if any lock faults are shown. I suspect I know which lock it is. Is there an official diagnostic method and does anyone know the correct door lock part numbers? I gather there’s an improved lock mechanism? My front right (driver’s door) is shown as a 5TC 837 016 D on SkodaParts based on my VIN. Does anyone know the part numbers and if there’s an improved part? Reading around I see there may be and a cover piece that needs swapping if I do that. Anyone know for certain?

Having issues with ours. Highly suspect it is the driver’s door lock. I will be plugging in diagnostics to have a look. If that confirms things I will swap the lock off. Does anyone know the door lock part numbers or able to search based on a VIN? Was there an improved part number or is it just a swap and we think they’ll fail in another 4 years?

Everything runs on CanBus these days. The cars are wired in a specific way and expect certain power levels on certain wires and parts of the loom. To change your aux socket to something else isn’t as easy as swapping a wire.

That’s what I thought. Appears just be be a friction fit held in by the top adapter on the hose. If you clean it too hard then the hose and adapter fall through the rubber face of the fuel cap surround and the hose falls out. Amazed it isn’t held with a clip or some ringing more substantial somewhere!

So I was cleaning the car and I think I was a bit overzealous and pushed the water drain hose out of the fuel cap. The hose fell on to the floor under the car after I moved off the wash bay. It is complete with the transparent hose and the black header piece. I am looking to refit it and perhaps add a hose clip to secure it better behind the road wheel. Has anyone got a photo or workshop sheet on where the hose goes to and should correctly emerge?

So I installed a NextBase 322 dashcam using the posts here as a guide. It’s a brand new camera, new sdcard and new hardwire kit all from NextBase. I have found one minor niggle in that it appears that when the battery is low on charge and the auto start stop system kicks in the NextBase camera reboots. I was wondering if there’s a better fuse perhaps to tap from that may not cut out during the ignition cycle.

Thanks for all the responses. So here we are almost two weeks have gone again. I have got the insurance company and the windscreen firm talking to each other now. I made a simple request, I told them I appreciate that the car is now 4 years old but it’s the same screen in the ones that are three years old. I have asked for a factory part to be fitted to repair the problem. They have also conceded that the sensor pad should have been fixed when they swapped the screens. I still wait for an appointment to repair things. In the meantime I got a quote from AutoGlass who are our other approved repairer and they quoted just over £800 to repair the car…

Have to say our DAB signal is poor at the best of times. No idea why, been like that since we picked it up. No Dashcam or alternations yet. Have a Nextbase to put in at some point.

Thank you This was done to us by National Windscreens, still no call back form them to sort it 24hours later... Their engineer was a nice bloke but hampered by what their local depot sent him out with. If anyone had photos of the top curvature of their screen and the sensor area that'd be appreciated. I am curious how much the top of our windscreen is out by and if the dip/drop at the top if the same on the VW/AG screens.

First question. What windscreen do you guys have fitted to yours? I picked up two stone chips which required the whole windscreen to be replaced as they weren’t repairable. Queue the approved repair company turning up the first time weeks later to replace it without a windscreen, and now two weeks later on a return appointment now with a windscreen. The windscreen fitted is sadly a poorly manufactured pattern part by XYG. The windscreen glass bows at the top and is misshapen. This means the rear view plastics don’t fit properly around the rear view mirror and fall off and rattle. The profile of the front of the car is all off, the glass doesn’t follow the bodywork properly. There’s a manufacturers logo printed about nine inches into the screen and the sensor area of the screen now has white blotches to it. So hard to show in photos but the windscreen curves lower down is straight along most of the swept area then curves awkwardly at the top excessively. I am hopeful that the company comes back shortly with the correct manufacturers part rather than a poor copy from a clone factory. Curious what other people have fitted or if they have had similar problems?

Yes that was my thought, and yes recently cleaned a coupe of times! I think I will pull them out and wash and scrub them with some fairy liquid.

Thank you. We had to part ways with our beloved Superb Estate Greenline due to ULEZ. We really love the Karoq, our third Skoda but I still miss the vRS! The Greenline was £30 road tax, 60+mpg and Sadiq Khan says it's bad and will kill people so it would have cost me £12.50 a day to drive into London.....

Question just bought a used MY18 Karoq, do I have to go to the dealer to validate my identity to enable the 'Care Connect' features that allow you to control some of the car's features and get alarm notifications?

I have a set of factory rubber mats for ours. Do you find the surface slippy of them? Sounds daft but I'm trying to figure out if they've been cleaned with something that makes them slippy or not!

Does anyone know the fix for a GPS signal drop out a the MIB clock showing midnight all the time? Our MIB install workeed just fine for moths and then suddenly no GPS signal lock (the maps seem to move on dead reckoning) and the radio clock is always set to midnight. Ay help much appreciated! I have a feeling it may be a firmware update or bug with the gateway?

I thought you said yoiur clock was showing 00:00 ? HAve you fixed yours?