Gissin

100%, that's my 'local' I'll be heading there a couple times over Christmas. have you heard they're removing the dirt jump area

did you use any carbon paste when fitting ? I did, on the basis I could run the torque settings slightly lower (0.5-1nm) so any big knocks will move the components and hopefully not snap the bars. I'd recommend ODI Elite Pro or death grips if you're looking for a thicker grip tyre pressures (go tubeless helps) depending on your weight, my friend who's 12st5 runs tubeless at 17/22 PSI (maxxis minions) and has loads of grip in corners we're currently creating a list for next year hopefully hit one a month Cannock chase Whinlatter Bike park wales Forest of Dean Grizedale Dalby Afan Forest Park

update: 40mm stem and 780/25mm rise carbon bars fitted I'm not sure if it's the saving of 300g or the combination of wider bars and a higher riding position but popping the front up for wheelies, manual, bunny hops to clear obstacles seems loads easier, in fact the first couple of tries I went off the back as it came up so quick! the Carbon bars look and feel awesome, steering input is about the same possibly slightly quicker. I've not been out on a trail to experience any dampening effects from the carbon and give them a good going over but so far so good, added bonus my brakes now clear my top tube !

any grips are usually an upgrade to OEM yeah that's a cracking price, I had a voucher so wasn't costly to me and already running 35mm so wanted to stay the same. unfortunately I only have 3 mates that are into biking, ones only just got a new bike and the other literally rides until things break/fall off then replaces eventually. so usually me buying new parts to try out. I must say im a big fan of the flanged death grips in thick / soft compound and at £14 a go not too costly to change ( I've also tried the flangeless thin/ soft but these are better) I might give the Ergons a go once this pair wear out

rough costs as you'll want to replace your clutch at the same time. £300 for the DMF & clutch kit + fitting around £300 was what my local Indy/specialist quoted me they can either just fail and you wont be able to drive it or it locks up and push the springs through the gear box although I think that's rare. My last octy has covered similar miles when It started being noisy although It was quieter once hot but I managed another 50K miles and the sound stayed the same and it was perfectly drivable in that time - this all depends on your driving though lost of use of the clutch / stop start will wear it out sooner.

I don't have a superb but the superbs only 300mm longer and 100mm wider than the Octavia which I have, however like you I'm very much into hiking and biking with regular full 2-4 days away, I recently fitted 2 bikes and all kit in the back of the boot (rear seats down)and fit nicely ( bikes laying down) if it was estate they would have been able to stand up (front wheel off) and I would have looked into building buying a front axle mount - I think the Supberb has, or can have a rail system in the boot for fittings such as this . the Octavia and superb (in your case) are very capable cars and stuff on Skoda's are not too hard to retrofit say if you wanted to update the MIB etc. driving round the lakes/wales/Cornwall with some very narrow lanes irton / waas****er spring to mind, the Octavia never felt big and navigated with ease I assume it would be a very similar story for the superb. multi stories are fine too

Pro - more power and torque, more responsive drive, more Mpg (depending on how it's driven) Con - can wear out parts quicker DMF, turbo, clutch etc. (depending on how it's driven) For a stage 1 you wont need to change any parts my two cents would be find a tuner with a good reputation, make sure they're remapping the car and not juts banging a generic map on and sending you on your way. you want them to be creating a custom map by changing the injection timing, bost etc and creating a map on rolling road with print outs, ideally with road tests and pre/post scans & safety checks completed best way is give them a ring and see what they offer and how knowledgeable they are - as an example one company I spoke to said my car would produce 250+ bhp and ''would only take them 25 minutes as they're 'Pro's'' - safe to say, I didn't go with them.

yes, you have an AML

nice they the 31.8 clamp size? if so they were a great price. let me know what you think to the grips I almost brought them over the death grips but couldn't justify the X3 cost

nice I'll check them out. I'll keep the tyres in mind if change my rims to something smaller in the future

fitted the new bars and stem ( went raceface turbine r) as no idea when the spank one is coming back in stock. got wider bars and saved 300g

Possible Causes Double Clutch worn/faulty Worn/Damaged gear shaft(s) Output Shaft Speed Sensor 1/2 (G501/G502) faulty Mechatronic Unit for Double Clutch Transmission (J743) faulty TSB for P2711 fault that states it is due to debris in the wet clutch packs and the fix is to replace the wet clutch packs https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/MC-10121327-9999.pdf

could be a list of things, have you scanned for any faults? when was it(DSG) last serviced ? when did you last change your battery? low or duff batteries can throw some weird electrical issues. hydraulic pump body inside the mechatronic unit is losing fluid pressure?? could be a software fix could never happen again and was just an error with that gear at that time

good luck, hope you get it sorted

good point. stop smoke treatment and Italian tune up ? but I think it's a replacement DPF to resolve this issue.

just a thought could you put some kind of heat wrap/shield around the DPF, like a turbo heat shield. so the tester would have to state something like could not test/inspect for tampering

unless you can prove it's been cut open for a valid reason (filer cleaning) any signs of tampering will be a fail. you will need to put a new DPF back in (I assume you won't be able to just stick a filter back in as it'll still have signs of tampering, but that contradicts the above, I await to be corrected) the other option is to find a MOT tester that will pass it knowing about the removed DPF. not sure if the prior fail will show up on a database which might make the next pass look suspect.

yeah absolutely I would say the data from my suunto is excellent and very accurate, I like the fact you can use the same HR monitor / accessories across different watches. they do a bike sensor too if that's your thing. mines about 5-6 years old but battery is still excellent(in fact I've only recently replaced the HR monitor battery) , works the same as day 1 and the sapphire glass is still pretty much un marked but the bezel is showing signs of use after being scraped against rock walls, MTB crashes etc. the only thing that lets it down is the software / app side for loading pre made maps / creating routes, can be quite confusing - this could be the age of mine and has probably improved with the newer models. My friend recently brought the Garmin 5s , unfortunately due to covid lockdowns and self isolations we've not had a chance to test it out properly but looks an impressive piece of kit and is equally as well put together as my suunto. Garmin would definitely be a consideration for me when I eventually change.

yeah you're spot on , I did some live logging recently and as soon as the coolant hits 76'c it shows 90 on the dash and when it drops past 74'c you'll start to see the gauge drop on the dash.

i'd put money on the thermostat starting to fail and opening early - this leads to much longer time for it to get up to operating temp. take it for a longer run 20+miles and if it still doesn't get up to temp then you may have another problem but I'd start at the thermostat

I'm a big fan of the Suunto range. I've got a peak 3 which I use for sport and it's been good, albeit a bit old now. https://www.cwsellors.co.uk/collections/suunto-watches/products/suunto-watch-suunto-3-slate-grey-copper-ss050415000 https://www.cwsellors.co.uk/collections/suunto-watches/products/suunto-watch-suunto-5-all-black-ss050299000

so some items have arrived. first impressions, bars are super lightweight and have a really nice feel to them the digital tyre pressure guage is great and has allowed my to tune my forks to exactly the pressure I wanted. got some new death grips again unfortunately the stem was out of stock (allowed me to order it though 😞) so I'll wait until it's back in stock to fit the new bars. additional chain reaction cycles customer service is shocking.

has anyone got bars or experience of them on a saloon? I have concerns the way they mount might lead to leakage and fogging due to not quite being sealed and also rubbing / scratching where they mount

had a proper look this morning, perhaps it was because the engine was running or i'm blind but I totally missed all these menus yesterday, you're quite right you can change these settings for the windows etc. ''it automatically gives you the same feature by using the lock/unlock switch in the centre of the car'' I never knew this, worked in my car

agree with above aerotwin, normally somewhere between £30-40 for the set, take seconds to fit. My current set have been on for 3 years and are just showing signs of failure. check out https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk they have some good deals