Gissin

yes and no, supporting mods like large bore down pipe and larger exhaust system yes help to get more power from a remap but they also support in removing waste gasses from the system quicker thus keeping the engine and surrounding components slightly cooler. but as you say you're not using the additional power so possibly not needed. good luck with your fix

Well typically stage 2 has changes to support the additional load - I certainly wouldn't stick a S2 map on a Stock car i'd be looking at DPF removal, turbo back exhaust the 110 has a smaller turbo than the 170 so that's now going to be working harder and therefore getting hotter, watch out for oil starvation or overboost issues uprated brakes - to upgrade you need to replace the hub carrier. not sure about the size of the Clutch and ancillaries on this engine but I would expect +80bhp you might well run into issues

what other changes have you made to support stage 2 ?

no this is not right, if anything you should be getting better mileage if done correctly. obviously this is if you're not mashing the go pedal more than previous. as an example my journey to work was roughly 48mpg pre map, now it's running 230bhp and regularly hits 50-53 I've also done a tank to tank comparison and confirmed it's better on fuel.

you'd be better off putting this in the yeti forum ideally post your engine code, mileage, any codes from Scanning. have you had your battery tested low voltage can cause all sorts of strange electrical issues

I've used it and still have it on my phone - connects via EML327 and was stable and provided the information I needed at the time. what are you wanting to do with it ?

100% thermostat

short trips kill DPF's yeah that's because it's getting full it will regen more and more often and eventually keep regenning constantly until the DPF light comes on and it needs either chem clean or replacing. essentially soot builds - regen, soot burnt off and % ash left behind im not 100% on the g / ML quantity before it requires outside intervention. get some DPF cleaner and put that in along with good fuel and give it a blast like redline in all gears then drop it into 4/5 and keep the revs over 2.5K for at least 5 miles if this doesn't stop the regen then you are looking at the options I advised. cleaning does remove the some ash and is cheaper than replacement but it's not like starting with a new one but you might say get another 20K out of it

191,278 Km by looking at the DPF data so certainly within end of life op- Oil ash residue is pretty high but not full, I would suggest taking out for 20-30 miles keeping revs over 2500 also bang some DPF cleaner in - failing that you're looking at removing for chemical clean or replacement

Most of the 1.6cr engines were dual except for a few build months. 1.6 can be converted to single mass, possibly it already has and that's what the garage were suggesting?

you car sounds very similar to mine if I don't set the steering absolutely perfect( I mean perfect like less than 1 degree) of if the road has any chamber at all it will drift most cars have a slight pull left (for RHD) this is a safety design feature so if you do drift its not into incoming traffic ok so having a the uprated alk and arb will make the steering a little more sensitive could this have an effect when setting the laser alignment ? not sure on that Take some measurements between the axle lines (front to rear) and see if both sides are the same distance apart. check far chassis twist swap the wheels around and see if that helps. assuming not unidirectional ie L to R see if it pulls right check springs especially right at the top and bottom as slight cracks can make cars lean every so slightly one way.

yeah the contrast between the front and the back will make the arch gap more apparent. as above new springs / shocks will take a little while to settle into their correct ride height and over time will start to reduce slightly as the dampening/spring rates reduce. to answer your question, yes this looks about the correct ride height for a standard vRS the Octavia's have always had quite large arch gaps for a 'sport' version

wait ..you've got lowered springs on the front with old/worn shocks and std in the rear with new shocks? that's going to have some strange handling characteristics I think you've answered your own question as to why it looks so different

Cars will always pull to the side - in the direction water would flow on the camber - to some degree, however some cars are more sensitive than others. I assume you've had 4 wheel alignment done checked the balance of your tyres when were the lower ball joints last checked / changed check rear bushings I assume you've got standard size tyres on and matching brands (you'd be amazed at the difference compared to mix F/R) any modifications? you've not mentioned how many miles your cars done/ how long you've had it

100% all about the tyres. I've got a stage 1 Octavia so you'd expect with all the power I'd have no grip or control but running snowtrack3's I had absolutely no issues going up a 30% hill in fairly fresh snow. obviously you'll still need to adjust your driving accordingly

winter mode engaged, just in time it would seem. 16" steels on vredestein snowtrac 3. also did a smart battery recharge and starts a bit better in the cold now. still waiting for my body shop to re open

Christ! I'm surprised the trails aren't closed to help stop any further damage. after the last ride I've packed my bike away and got the spin bike out instead

will be CEGA have a look in the front of your service book or in the boot floor under the carpet near spare wheel well

my friends watch recorded 1h42 moving time so I think his has auto pausing which is probably more accurate

got out for another ride the other day around Sherwood pines. it was super cold, huge puddles and dense mud which really slowed things down, my drivechain sounded like I was trying to grind it off but still good to get out

managed to get out with a couple mates who I met in the trail. very muddy and cold but ended up doing a quick 8 miles

Good work - assume you went for the Thick soft combo? and flanged too, I'm a big fan of the flanged versions helps keep you hands from moving about , very useful following a rock drop. I've seen your strava page, I've not used it before but ill give it a go over Christmas (27,28,29th planned outings)

i didn't think windows were tested as part of the MOT, door locks yes.

prices a very dependant on options and history. be wary of using MOT's to assume the cars in good shape, especially if the garage selling (assuming it's not private) has their own in house tester worth putting on if its petrol or diesel so people can advise on engine specific things to suggest or even sick the advert on or point in the direction of, as there might be people who spot things you might miss. I don't know what you look at when buying but I like to press every button and makes sure everything works even getting on the floor and having a look underneath

Depends on what you're wanting it for, just a casual glance to see where you're at. Something that has a start/stop modes and gives final read out data like Avg HR/time Or something you can attach to a PC and pull the data for analysis. obviously the cheaper you go the less accurate you will find it I would always recommend a belt HR monitor for accuracy but cheaper options would be wrist mounted which most modern systems are fairly accurate now days here's a couple options that might fit your bill: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/mi-smart-band-4-fitness-tracker-heart-rate-monitor/_/R-p-X8597853 https://www.argos.co.uk/product/8887012 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07PM6JDZ8?tag=georiot-trd-21&th=1&psc=1&ascsubtag=trd-gb-9718527101963546000-21 Something a little off topic https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LW44CQC?tag=georiot-trd-21&th=1&ascsubtag=trd-gb-1445856053566088000-21 If you have something you can connect via ANT+ to have a look at the Polar straps or garmin https://www.amazon.co.uk/Garmin-Adult-Unisex-Premium-HRM-Dual-Bluetooth/dp/B07N3C5WRG * I would not suggest amazon for purchases I've just stuck them in for references