Gissin

you need to break the pins off - they're there for alignment but obviously not designed for use with the mk2 grill, so need to be careful when sticking the badge on

Here's the part numbers you'll need: 1ST 853 601A AUL - Front 1ST 853 630 AUL - Rear 601 151 ULM - Wheels

DM'd

you got any photos of the pc white wheels?

to be getting to 300bhp you'll need to be looking at stage 3 remap....so decat, Intake, intercooler, maybe a upgraded HPFP, full exhaust system.. r8 coil packs, upgraded plugs and maybe your clutch could handle it but I doubt it so factor that in . Stage 3 involves KO4 turbo upgrades ... injectors and other stuff ..Stage 2 will see around 270-280bhp which is pretty awesome anything past that personally I'd be looking at 4wd to be able to out the power down... torque steer is a bitch

totally agree, I replaced mine all round including brake fluid, they're perfectly fine for normal driving but if you push them slightly they suffer from brake fade and I suspect they'd warp if you went further.. saying that I'm at 15k in they're still ok for everyday driving

queuing for fuel this morning the chap in front got out and was about to start when the person in front of him reversed out the way he then got back in his car and pulled forward for me, small gesture but i thought it was kind of him

front: Centering Diameter mm65 Height mm50 Brake Disc Type Vented Minimum Thickness mm22 PR No.1LL-1LP-1ZB No.Holes5 Disc Ø mm312 rears: Bolt Hole Circle mm112 Brake Disc Type Solid Centering Diameter mm65 Height mm48 Minimum Thickness mm8 PR No.1KS-1KT No.Holes5 Disc Ø mm272 Pads: Height mm71 Length mm155 Thickness mm20 Wear Indicator: Integrated PR No.1LP-1ZB Disc Ø mm312 Fitting Position: Front # Brake System: BOSCH Height mm53 Length mm109 Thickness mm18 Wear Indicator: Not Fitted PR No.1KF-1KS-1KS,1KT-1KT Disc Ø mm256,272-272 Fitting Position: Rear

there's a sticker in the boot under the floor that gives you codes alternatively measure them. there's an old post of mine with details on it, should be the same size as yours i can highly recommend Vagbremtechnic Hooked discs and the Ferodo Racing DS2500 pads are good too, make sure you change your brake fluid.

if it's intermittent could a dodgy ignition barrel cause these faults

i have a 27.7+ and mine fits without removing any wheels have the turn the front one slightly and obviously drop the back seats

you sure it's not telling you to change to 5th, what speed and revs are you doing in 6th?

been busy putting a new kitchen in the house but thought it was time to update... splitter and black roof looks awesome

if you're replacing the caps you don't need to remove the wheels.

have you had 4 wheel alignment checked ?

I've never done a front one, but assuming you can take the brackets off, you could probably cut off and replace in situ. have you considered a full replacement SKODA OCTAVIA Mk2 (1Z) Front Anti Roll Bar 22MM 1K0411315R | eBay

I had mine dechromed painted by a body shop, wasn't that expensive

if it's the same as the rear ARB they're bonded to the bar, so you can either cut them off and replace or replace the unit as a whole

how do you map out a DPF without doing anything to it ?

i was under the impression if a DPF was part of standard fit equipment and it has been removed or tampered with, it will fail the MOT

sounds like you've got a split hose or even the turbo is failing. does it take a while to get upto say 2.5Krpm and after that it's ok? any excess noise?

this is a Mark 2 pre-facelift, the FL ran from 09-12

It never ends dude! considered an oval chainring ?

I wouldn't recommend anyone use a screwdriver to force it off, you may have got away with it, but i've seen plenty of others who have made a royal mess of it! @Noms I brought a can of desolvit- sticky stuff remover (you can get it from tesco/amazon etc.) this destroys the adhesive bond and after spraying on and leaving for a few mins you can pull the badges off by hand, a bit of floss in a sawing action helps to get behind the badges.

grey goose is my go to