SurreyJohn

@Bia Virtually all cars come with summer tyres, doesn't mean they are best choice for UK and Ireland climate, and although all seasons have been around for few years, they have only become common in last 2 or 3 years. One of the spin offs of introduction of all season, is that most summer tyres have been reformulated and are more summer like, great when temperature is 20+c, but poor in wet below about +9c (exact temperature varies by brand). In reality both UK and Ireland get cold rain, 8 or 9 months a year (ever noticed how temperature often dips when it rains). Your problem is 185/60 R14 tends not to get latest designs, and many of the best are not available in that size I would choose any of these (and price and availability might choose for you) Goodyear vector 4season gen 3 Dunlop all season 2 Continental all season contact

I read somewhere that VW group are no longer doing any development or improvements on diesel engines. I suspect the key dates are euro7 (29 Nov 26 for new models), with existing models able to continue a year until November 2027. And Euro7 has to be good for 10 years or 200,000km (124,000 miles), so an emissions system that partly clogs up a few years into a vehicles life isn't going to be good enough. Accordingly I would not be surprised if the remaining diesel engines are dropped spring 2027 so none are left in stock by November 2027 Regarding extending life of the Fabia, Scala, Kamiq to 2030, has also been announced for Arona and Ibiza, and I understand Polo and T-Cross. I would guess there will be usual minor facelift (different wheels, a few minor tweaks etc) but basically a continuation of current models. My guess is all these will get a slimmed down range as the Epiq, Raval and VW ID2 models build up production in 2026. VW group doesn't want to be competing directly with itself, it is having to compete with likes of Kia for innovation, and more budget brands like Dacia and Fiat for cheap runarounds. Even a bottom of range Fabia is not a simple budget second car like the original Ford Fiesta popular. I think they have given up on the cheap second car for running popping into town market (do you really need connectivity, and lots of gadgets to find your regular corner shop / local supermarket, or do a regular school run). They have priced themselves out of the basic car market.

Get a couple of valuation quotes, eg Motorway and we buy your car etc. (You are not going to sell it to them, but need to compare the value to your balloon payment) If the value is higher, then if you sold it straight away and settled PCP finance, then would pocket the difference. If it is other way round, and balloon is more, then logically let the finance co take the loss, but if you want to keep it then you are at no loss enquiring if your PCP provider will let you buy it for less than the balloon (This was stated in an above post, get the figures and try making an offer). Assuming you want to keep the car, then as others have said use a comparison site to get best loan rates (moneysupermarket, compare the market etc). Note that sometimes rates are stepped depending upon amount borrowed (and often costs more in total amount due back if just below a threshold, so step up to next tier with lower interest). You can use multiple enquires of different amounts or payback periods on an indication (don't make multiple actual applications) if not yet sure how much you want to spend per month, or how quick you want it paid off. Be very wary of any consolidation type loans, some people are daft and only worry about amount per month, forgetting to check total amount with interest to be repaid. Adding it to your mortgage and still paying for the car in 20 years time when mortgage is still running is stupid. I would suggest never set a car loan that lasts longer than when car is 8 years old, you don't want to be still paying the car loan when you have eventually got rid of the car.

Public chargers vary in price, the slow ones tend to be around 50-60p per kw/h, fast ones are closer to 75-95p. some are a bit cheaper where competition exists, and for certain brands can get lower rates by opening a contract. Home charging is closer to 6.5-7p on overnight tariffs, or around 4 times that or normal daytime electricity. Depending on how you drive, traffic levels, temperature, etc a 50kw charge will generally give around 220 miles. For ease it is about half the distance you would get on a full fuel tank (brim to empty). so comparison is full fuel tank, costs around £60-90 depending on model. or 2 charges of 50kw/h which is 100kw/h at 6.7p (overnight electricity) is £6.70 at 26p (daytime electricity) is £26 at 55p (slow charger) is £55 at 85p (fast charger) is £85 so if you charge at home and rarely do more than 200 miles (so normally don't need to top up at public charger) is about tenth of the cost. Someone doing say 10k miles a year would be saving about £1000 per year in fuel. If you can get free electricity at work etc then would save whole fuel cost. if regularly using slow public chargers, electricity will be cheaper, probably saving 20-30%. But you would be paying virtually same using fast chargers. Being blunt if you have home charger, you will save, if you need to use public chargers then not going to save much going electric. Saving £1000 per year on fuel and cheaper servicing adds up over few years. Of course if you are thinking of going electric, then exact comparison will depend on model, and petrol and electricity prices for next few years, so might as well use the basic comparison above. It is likely to cost around £1000 to install a home charger, (bit more if very long cable run or your home supply is old/poor so needs work), so this tends to offset first year savings. Although if buying a new car, they might contribute big chunk of this installation cost depending on offers that come and go.

At 265,000km (165,000 miles) there is reasonable chance that some microscopic particles from worn plates are in the oil. Thicker oil (due to particles in it) might be causing the slow changes. Although Škoda say oil should be for lifetime, I don't think that time period is defined. However you are probably in top 10% of mileages so well above average lifetime. I would get an automatic transmission specialist to change the oil, it needs a special vacuum extractor (there is no drain plug). At best it will fix problem, the worst that will happen is you have new oil that should last same time again. Only if you still have problems consider getting gearbox disassembled and fixed as it is big expensive job

Without stating the obvious have you wiped the sensor clean, and check it is not a tiny bit pressed in etc. Not unheard of in the summer for it to get hit and splattered by some big flies (or similar) etc. All of which could confuse it.

You need to check the advert when you bought the car to see if it was listed. doesn't always work, as some list standard spec and put a little disclaimer note at end. But if they sold it with it advertised, seller should either buy it for you and add it, or rebate you the cost of you adding it from Skoda shop.

Unless you live in one of those rare enclaves with billiard table smooth roads, I would go for the 18s. In most of the UK the road surfaces are too poor for biggest size possible. On my previous car I ran 18s with 45 profile summer tyres (that it came with) and 16 inch with 60 profile winter tyres, and every April when I changed back I cursed as it crashed and jolted on potholes and badly filled holes with raised tarmac, which didn't happen with 16s. Depending on the choice of rims you buy seriously affects any vanity (looks), the dark rims hide deeper tyres, and the silver ones don't look good if you kerb them. It is not just the size that affects looks, it is style and colour too. Be honest with yourself, why were you considering refurbishing existing wheels, probably because you hit kerbs (and don't come out with waffle excuses the kerbs hit you because you always drive perfectly). if it was me, go for smaller size wheels, and also fit premium all season tyres, then you can enjoy it all year round, without worry. This is a link to Skoda wheels catalogue (should be available through parts dept), note some types come in multiple colours (and in my opinion so colours look better) https://www.skoda-auto.com/_doc/6d5c59b3-5d97-451a-ab78-2ef185e6e373

I too would be wary of scams, a potential buyer asking a few questions for clarity before travelling is reasonable. But his actions don't seem right to me, so ignoring him as a buyer sounds like you did right thing. I recently sold a car through motorway, worked well, they sent someone to collect few days later, got offer £250 below their initial estimate, but was still £800 more than best px offer (and £1800 more than another offer). However when they came weren't happy that it had the original tyres on, 7 years old, as said would need to put new ones on to resell it, wanted to take about £270 off, but as they were in the photographs we agreed to meet in between as wasn't worth sending them away as still about £650 better than best alternative offer. For the record I checked the buyers website afterwards, went on their forecourt couple of days later, they sold it about 2 weeks later making about £2300 if they got full asking price.

No do not have a superb, but have had higher load XL all season tyres on other Skoda car (before SF3 was invented), and couldn't tell difference from the normal load summer tyres in everyday driving.

The handling will depend on the temperature, generally all seasons are bit softer than summer tyres in cooler months. So sort of offsets, but there are multiple factors. As Superbs also come with 2 sizes of bigger wheels than 17 (with less tyre sidewall) I would guess having higher load rating won't make much difference. The view is suspension on superbs is softer end of scale (more comfort orientated than sporty) If you had wanted a sports car to throw around country roads, then wouldn't have a superb. So it will be fine.

The gearbox has torque limits, and engines are mapped not to exceed it. In theory providing you keep within the max weights (look in brochure or on sticker in door jamb) then should be ok, of course if you have the 1.0tsi it is not going to fly up hills. You shouldn't have any problems towing with DSG box Are we discussing a small camping trailer, or something bigger.

Some new spy pictures of the Epiq testing in Spain. Will be built in Barcelona (alongside VW ID2 and CUPRA Raval). All 3 are using a new small car EV platform, so mechanically (and electrically drive/battery) going to be same https://www.autoevolution.com/news/2026-skoda-epiq-spied-looking-sharp-small-electric-suv-features-concept-styling-cues-254272.html Pre-series production is expected to begin this year, although it's not clear which of the three MEB Entry models will be the first to launch. Be that as it may, the Epiq is anticipated to be revealed in the second half of 2025, making it a 2026 model. Volkswagen confirmed a starting price in the ballpark of 25,000 euros for the long-awaited ID.2, whereas the 2026 Skoda Epiq and Cupra Raval may be a little pricier due to their more in-demand body style. Certain reports indicate that all-wheel drive is out of the question, while different reports allude to a tri-motor ID.2 R high-performance hatchback. In any case, the Epiq is believed to come in two front-drive flavors at launch. The lesser model is rumored to pack 118 kilowatts or 158 mechanical horsepower (160 ps), whereas the punchier option could get 140 kilowatts or 188 horses (190 ps). These yet-unconfirmed output levels further indicate two battery choices. According to Volkswagen, the ID.2all concept that previews the production ID.2 is good for up to 450 kilometers (280 miles) in the WLTP test cycle. As for direct current fast charging, make that up to 125 kilowatts. Skoda estimates more than 400 kilometers (249 miles) from its entry-level electric sport utility vehicle, whose trunk promises 490 liters or 17.3 cubic feet. Incredible cargo capacity for such a small vehicle, but then again, it's also natural given the switch from rear drive (and rear drum brakes) for the Elroq and Enyaq to front drive for the Epiq

In my opinion anyone still using the Covid excuse nearly 5.5 years is not being truthful. What they really mean is their planning, staff training, succession planning and HR is useless. If you wonder why I include HR (Human Resources) it's because there primary function is to provide sufficient trained staff, and if they haven't got enough to keep up with demand long term then clearly failing to do their basic task. Nowadays if a company says we're have a big backlog, I sometimes ask how many staff they have in training to clear it. The most common answer (if they answer) is don't think there are any. Zero succession planning so will eventually fade. Recently a friend had problem and their local main dealer (not Škoda) said couldn't handle it because no high voltage trained staff. Why when 44% of car sales are now BEV, PEV or HEV do they ignore. Same don't care attitude, no training (and as people retire or leave, no skill either). .

Italy has rules (15th Nov - 15th April) about winter rated tyres, or compulsory carrying of snow chains. Not just in the mountains, but even down in south in Puglia and Calabria. Doesn't apply everywhere, but unless want to check local rules easier to comply. As Italy has a wider temperature range than UK (can get to low 40s c in summer, and below -10c in mountains in winter), think you are sensible having 2 sets, rather than all seasons. A 55c temperature range is too wide for physical properties of a tyre and will be compromised at the outer ranges. Škoda have a wheels brochure (can be ordered from parts Dept) and also a winter wheels (with tyres) brochure. But likely to be cheaper to shop around for tyres (and have more choice). https://www.skoda-auto.com/_doc/6d5c59b3-5d97-451a-ab78-2ef185e6e373 https://www.skoda-auto.com/_doc/c829936c-f0c1-48a3-bd99-55a507038e8c

The change to 80 amp fuses in domestic houses instead of 100amp was due to temperature. It was originally assumed that most of the load would be in winter (electric heaters etc). The supply cables (called tails) are often rated based on temperature of 20c. Now people are using more power in summer, it was standardised to prevent hot wires, because cables were not really rated for 100amp continuous in hot weather. The National grid struggles in parts of the country because most of the high power grid was built to shift electricity from coal fired power stations in north midlands to big industry sites and cities. It simply hasn't caught up with shifting electricity from remote wind farms and solar arrays to motorway service area car parks in fairly rural areas.

I also have an Ohme home charger, and it is much easier to enter your tariff in the ohme app, then let ohme app start the charge just after midnight. With the car the only thing is decide if you want 100% battery rather than 80% default. Ohme actually also allows you to add a set percentage top up too. If you try and add more than about 52kw/h the charger will also use some daytime charge. (because 7 hours x 7.4-7.6kw is its overnight limit). When my Ohme charger was installed, the installer included a data cable back to the meter because there is patchy wifi and weak mobile signals on front drive

Officially they are for the 4x4 version, which has slightly different suspension and ground clearance, they are not a homologated size on 2wd versions. If you modify the vehicle to non approved, then need to inform insurers etc.

The person you talked to is very poorly informed, Karoq comes with multiple wheel sizes, but the outside diameter is virtually same as tyre is deeper. Have a look at this brochure, has all the wheels (and the tyre sizes to go with them). They should be available through the parts Dept (but probably cheaper to get the tyres separately as lot of competition for tyres) https://www.skoda-auto.com/_doc/6d5c59b3-5d97-451a-ab78-2ef185e6e373 Have a look at your tyre pressure sticker (either on inside of fuel flap, or on inside of front door jam, drivers or passenger side), might even give multiple wheel sizes, if it does then car is already certified for the sizes listed.

For most people, an overnight charge on a domestic EV charge costs around £3 and gives about 200 miles. (Ballpark figures) If you use a public charger will be around 10-13 times that, £30-40 as they are typically 65p - 90p per kw/h For fossil fuel cars, 200 miles likely to be half a tank of fuel, also around £30-£40 Reality is, if don't have access to charger at home or work, then probably going to not save anything with an electric car. But if you drive say 10k miles per year and have a charger, likely to be paying nearer £150 in electricity per year, rather than £1150 per year in fuel, saving £1000 per year.

Check all the obvious ones visually (tyre depth, age of tyres from 4 digit week & year code, brake pad thickness and brake disk condition. Check under boot floor and around back seats for signs of careless ownership. Then as @Ootohere says, if it needs haldex filter, full service, cam belt etc could easily rack up over £1000, over £2000 if brakes and tyres too, so get them to print or email full service history and study when things were last done (and more importantly by deduction what is not already done). .

On the Roomster, can slide the back seats, so I assume the big gap is with the seats in the forward position. Can also have gap at sides if you take the middle seat out, and relocate the others to the inwards position. Never had any buzzing from the panoramic roof blinds in the 10 years we had a roomster (but did open on their own occasionally)

Just been emailed about an ex demonstrator event 5-14 July Are Škoda taking me for a mug ? I just looked up an approved used car, few months old, it's about £25k, but comes with a whopping 11.4% APR finance, which over 3 years is over £7k in interest. So costing over £32k But I can order a new one, costing £33k, get a PCP deposit contribution, reducing price to nearer £31k and 0% APR so over 3 years pay less. So why would anyone want the overpriced demonstrators, as it seems end up paying more for a secondhand car, than the new one. Do they think I am dumb? What am I not seeing that makes this event more attractive than a new car.

I had one of these plans, took it out about part way through year 4, so car had been out of warranty for few months. At the time they had special offer and I was paying nearer £26 per month. I think I had the major service around its 4th birthday, then the minor service, but I specifically requested spark plugs second time (even though it had only done about 15k miles since they were changed (before I took out all in one). I explained it includes a spark plug change, so although not due, do it because it is effectively free as paid for. So look what it covers, and get it done, even if not scheduled at the mileages your services come up. If plan covers it, you have paid anyway, so silly not to have new parts if you have the option at no cost. From memory, mine had European breakdown cover included, so worth more than a UK only policy, but wasn't that obvious unless read the small print. .

If it is anything like some other VW group models, got to find the button under the material (about 2 or 3 inches down at the back) and give it a hard push, but as it's relatively small (not much bigger than one fingertip size) if you try and push it with two fingers can't get it to go in far enough to release because end up trying to push the surrounding part too. Best done by raising headrest a bit so you can put thumb other side, and try and clamp it in a sort of pincer movement whilst sitting in the back The other thing is use your other hand to move headrest upwards, but don't try and move it up until button is fully in, otherwise doesn't seem to unlatch, and you will end up fumbling around without success. Finally, to fully extract it, will normally need to tilt seat back a bit, otherwise it hits ceiling.