ThomasItis

Is it easy to inform us if anyone will need a replacement?

Why do you have 2 CAI's? Headlight and foglight? Looking nice!

They seem to work better to 1.4 tsi engines than the 1.8 20vt.

20vt heavily modified IK24, 20vt mid-range modifications IK22, 20vt stg1 IK20, the only problem that Denso's had (at least has happened to me) they tend to wear really fast and sometimes they cause misfires under load (full boost e.t.c.) .

Big talk... What are price differences between refurbished genuine, used genuine and new no name?

In the link you quoted does not write anywhere in the description if it has VW approval, check to the back of your oil canister if it writes anywhere that it has the VW approval. If it doesn't I wouldn't use it.

Fully stripped out only dash and 2 seats. (When I was younger )

At least you and your family are ok! That piece of sh!t will get it sooner or later!

Personally I would go for the Gates timing kit, but first I would give them a call to ask if the price differences have to do with the water pump build because usually pumps with plastic blades tend to wear more easy and that is why they are cheaper. If the pump into the Gates kit comes with metal blades that will be my choice.

Fabia VRS has 288mm front disc brakes so 16'' with the correct offset will not be a problem, as for the mirror caps are a little difficult to remove them. Perhaps a sticker would be easier?

Everything is flexible and all depends to personal experience. I've been changing cambelts and especially to 20vt's for ,at least maybe more, 10 yrs. All those manufacturers you have written are equal and their parts have the same quality. I prefer Gates-Powergrip cambelts than all the others. If for example you don't brake with your brakes but you keep downshifting gears to slow down your speed don't expect your cambelt to last 4 or 5 years-it all depends. Water pumps also, for example, are made to last those ''x'' km-miles with G12 and if someone is using water for example they will fail much much earlier. Another common fault that most DYI'ers do is not changing the tensioner and then when it fails, everyone is looking for what went wrong and blame the cambelt kit brand e.t.c. which is wrong. Also the water pump has to be with the metal blades because engine temperature tends to wear the blades much more easily and then the damage is near. Sorry for big post but the truth is that.

Imagine it had VW Caddy badges, like they did to the Hilux's when they renamed them as Taro's for the German market!

Agree with Ricardo! Despite he sells something not very common his asking price is miles away from reality.

If you use manufacture's original parts it is 5 years, if you use none genuine spare parts (Continental,Skf,Gates) it is 4 years.

No, neither fixed or annual. When I hear the valve tappets start making noise I know that time has come. I use Castrol Edge titanium with VW approval and new filter every time.

Do you think they are very often?

On the last photo the 11/06 is the production date. On the flywheel check if there is to the inner side anything written. In my opinion it is factory clutch.

110.000 km on mine 1.2 tsi and still does not consume any oil at all. Service is done every 10.000 km.

Do you have VagCom? Run a scan to see if there are any fault codes because there is a high pressure sensor that can break down. If there aren't any faults just regas it. It's the installer's responsibility to check if there any leaks and he has to inform you, not yours.

Factory fitted spark plugs, they are a little expensive and they don't get along with tuning to be honest... In my opinion yes, I have been using them for a very long time and they earn their money.

Agree. They are used in many tuned cars because they can hold up really good with combustion temperatures. But of course they have to be changed more often.

The only acceptable spark plug from Bosch are the F5DP0R which are from Audi Rs2 and are a little bit more expensive than the NGK. But the Bosch will definately will need to close the gap.

Sorry?What will all those staff will be needed for? You have to drill ground points to your car? If yes you don't have! Your car has already from the factory lot's of ground points. I would be happy to tell you some points if you don't know where they are.

You can try, as written above, to reinsulate the stock harness instead of opening big deals with the ecu harness or cutting and soldering cables... Try to find the ''cloth'' insulating tape instead of the cheap ones that will be burned again from engine temperatures. By cloth tape i mean something like this And of course after reinsulation, use and the cover which, correctly, was mentioned above.

Check if the noise is coming on the top of the engine, if it is the tappets. The HPP sometimes produces some noise. Perhaps the oil is to be changed?