Evil
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Everything posted by Evil
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I'm generally happy only getting to watch highlights.. means I watch mostly interesting bits, largely avoiding tedium. Watched about half hour of highlights yesterday before going and finding something else to do. Just googled to confirm who I suspected won.... no interest in that race at all.
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Was only expecting 1 relay but had 2 to hide. Now they're gone I'm hoping to get the deletes completed (started) this week..
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Can't remember where I read it (much googling has been done) but I have read that if an accidental tank of E10 is used in an incompatible car, just fill it up with E5 when the time comes. No harm should (SHOULD!) come to the car. Also.... E10 (and E5) means up to 10% (5%)...
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New switch arrived, got it fitted and car fires straight up... Still got 2 relays arriving Tuesday because they're cheap and known to be twitchy.. Thanks for all the input (including @J.R.) I appreciate every reply.. Added a pic of how the old one came out, in spite of using picks to depress the clips..
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I'm talking about the PCV, SAI/N249/N112 and EVAP and VAC lines.. Is it easier to tackle them all at once or go through them one chunk at a time? I've been reading through Bowders how2's for weeks now and it kinda looks like it'd be easier, overall, to do it all at once. But working out where they cross over, if you're relying on the guides, looks tricky. Also... has anyone put together a parts list? I think I have most of what I need - I've had the SAI and N-valves software deleted so no resistors are required, the rest is just pipes, plugs and clips byt the look of it...
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Because mk1 clocks are complicated, I'd hazard a guess that mk2 ones are worse... just identifying a dry joint would be a nightmare. And, if I could work out which pins to short on the ignition switch, the logistics of shorting them out and plugging in the others while trying to start the car...... no, just no. It's a very small, very enclosed, socket with a similarly small plug. The potential for further damage....... While I really do appreciate the input, you've managed to increase difficulty astronomically.
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Gotta say... steering wheel off to remove cowling seemed excessive but nobody called him out on it so I moved on. New switch ordered (aftermarket, not genuine, should be here Monday). Swmbo can use my car til then - it'll cost her a fair bit more in fuel but it'll get her to work and back for a few days. Fingers crossed that'll be it .... thanks for the assist, much appreciated 👍
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Yep.. makes perfect sense (I think the failing relay scenario fits too, having read a few things in the last dozen or so hours).. If it's that easy I'll change it anyway.. thanks.. off to find a part number. Read another thread on here earlier that said the steering wheel needs to come off to get the cowling off. Not really up for that tbh... maybe a few year back but I really cba any more.
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It seems exactly like that tbh. But for one thing. If I leave it sitting ignition on the dash lights randomly come on/go off. If they're on and I try to start the car they go off. Every time. I swapped the 2 460 relays this morning and things improved. Dash lit up immediately. Couple of problematic starts but then about a dozen perfect ones. Going to order 2 new relays from the local dub dealer. Don't know what else to do.
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And now it's dead (unrelated to having no flaps.. I think/hope)
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I know this has been asked before but my keywords are just not producing results.. Car is an '08 diesel pre facelift vRS (BMN (PD170) engine) With key in ignition on position, no lights are on. Fuel gauge not registering. Car doesn't turn over. If I leave ignition on, power will come. And go and few seconds later. If I catch it, I can turn the engine over. The no lights, not starting thing has happened a few times over the past few weeks but now it seems it's a permanent fixture. Car is dead. And it's my missus' daily so I need to sort it asafp. Read a couple of things about relays 40 and 460 being a potential issue. As well as a broken wire to one of the aforementioned relays (40, I think).. I'm ok with very rudimentary electrics but that's about it. Anyone share an insight (urgently if possible) please???
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Today was the day... Off with the original swirly flappy inlet and on with the BKD no flappy inlet. Not madly impressed with Darksides instructions tbh but we did it.. And got pictures too, much to Kirstys irritation... Ta daaaaaaaa..
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Iddy biddy fuel leak. Fixed.
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@DeanVRS20VT did you go for the 7kg or 10kg fly?? Just looking at the Valeo smf kit from ECP and, with their Bank70 code, it's £270...
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I'll be in this position (new clutch, not stage 2 - probably) next year.. have a read through this, it might help
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Sticking to 16's so (I think) bigger discs up front are out but can the rears be upgraded?? Are there 310/312mm discs that'd fit the rear? Is it worth it?
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Took me a while to start getting rid of the filament bulbs...
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And now it's black. Because that's what she wanted.
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In an effort to fix the won't pull past 3.5k revs issue (no codes, no nothing, runs lovely, mpg is normal) we're deleting flaps... Hello Darkside, take my money..
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It's had 1 coat of Hammerite Straight To Metal now for a liberal coating of Plastikote before I say a prayer and mark up my turrets... gawd help me.
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Yeah.. I'm even more into it than before.. And it doesn't sound like an old creaking bed now either, which is nice..
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Been at the garage for the last 2 days having the Koni Str. T kit (and all that Lemforder gear) fitted. Before and after pics... I've tried to make them equal in proportion, croppage and car filth
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Of course I'm modifying it.. kinda the point isn't it? I've managed to piece together most of the relevant info from so many sources (not easy on a bloody smartphone I tell thee) and, while it may make life easier for the inevitable FMIC, I'm probably not going to bother. Yet. If ever.
