Evil

The issue we found with that was they were equally as perished. Worth a look, though, you never know.

Nope... I replaced them with regular (fuel) pipe.. The bends aren't tight enough to kink and it worked perfectly for about 3 years - until we sold the car (was a mk4 golf, same engine)

@skinnyman thanks.. That's a lot of hardware binned!! Do like the idea of gaining space (and deleting unnecessary gubbins) I did a pcv delete on a mk4 golf (pd engine).. think, on that, it just stops derv fumey nastiness going on the inlet.. And I think I simplified the vac system on my old Saab.. We're reasonably competent (she's a mechanic, we can handle most things we're physically capable of - which seems to be less every year now) but I'm very short on confidence so tend to be a bit of a pita and procrastinate a lot. So many things on the list (house and cars) it's hard to know where to start...

Bilstein only list B6 and B8 for the Mk1 as far as I can see... https://www.bilsteinsuspensionstore.co.uk/index.php

Thanks mate... I think I'll go through the vacuum lines and replace any perished ones. Will do the delete if an expensive part fails. At which point I'd go through the instructions as I did it. Definitely mess it up otherwise..

Catback shouldn't affect anything, performance wise. Induction kit is more likely to sap power unless it's a fully enclosed one, but they ain't usually cheap.

I couldn't agree more (and with the rest of your post that I've clipped).. Patience and a little luck can pay dividends (scored a scorpion GrpN (or were they GrpA - the 2 5" systems) for my old V6 Cavalier for £50. Then bought a pair of 3.0 Omega heads for £50, robbed the cams and sold the heads on for £100 - have me a 200+ bhp Cab for nowt).. Not sure my patience extends very far these days....

A new catback exhaust is going to be in the region of £400 whether he buys it off the shelf or made by powerflow. Powerflow will guarantee it for as long as he owns the car and will try to tune the system to his sound requirements (or tell him they can't do it)

If you have any locally, go have a chat with a Powerflow dealer... tell them what you want and see what they say.

I've read the How2 on here, googled and read lots of info on forums around the globe and it looks, on the face of it, not a bad idea. 3 questions though 1. Are there any downsides for daily use? 2. Is it really as easy as folk say? 3. Can it be coded out (during a remap) prior to removing all the hardware, preventing an EML forever?

I think this is the one.... would I be able to get a double check and confirmation please? (sorry, I know I'm a pita) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383525527729?epid=1609380618&hash=item594be720b1:g:XQ0AAOSw4MBeqhU6

Anyone confirm the Bosch part number for the front O2 sensor on the vRS please (reg is YV03 VUD, if it helps)? The direct fit one comes up with LP20431 on a few sites but others say it's not right.. Seems it's the more expensive of the 2 so I'd hazard a guess the previous owner may have fitted the cheapest option.

Thanks ... It's an AUQ engine

The chap we bought the car from (Mk1 vRS) said he'd replaced both O2 sensors because of error codes. We're still getting the codes in the description. We found the exhaust was blowing at the join with the cat so, thinking that might be contributory, we had a new exhaust fitted today. Reset the codes and, about 5 miles later, they're back. 17524 Oxygen Sensor Heating B1 S1 (P1116 - 35-00 - Open Circuit) & 17511 Oxygen Sensor Heating B1 S1 (P1103 - 35-00 - Performance Too Low) Do these codes both reference 1 sensor, or both? Done a little searching, as you do, and it seems there's 3 possibilities 1. Fuse (43?) 2. Wiring between ECM and sensor (how to test?) 3. O2 sensor (best brand to get? (I'd normally buy genuine or Bosch but have only ever bought them for Vauxhall cars)) Thanks Skodafolks

I had a 1.9 tdi (pd130) engined mk4 golf, never waited for the glow plug light to go out except on the coldest days... even then it was never on as long as 4 seconds..

The stock Mk1 vRS clocks are no FIS with the computer display at the bottom of the rev counter (but you all knew that already).. To convert to full FIS and get the centre display working with, for example, FIS Control, is it simply a case of soldering the relevant display in?

You used to use option C in a manual... no reason not to continue in an auto, the risk you mention is the same regardless of gearbox.

I don't mind C4 highlights.. lose interest trying to watch a whole race so it works for me.. Worst part is trying to avoid F1 discussions until Sunday evening

Thanks chaps.. I was looking at ardtechniks colourmfa (thought about it for the Golf) and I could probably do the soldering but I'd rather not.. with fitting it's well north of £500 - especially when you factor in some pretty colours for the clocks. Stumbled across FIS Control last night too.. looks interesting, and only £300, but I'd still need the centre display. Wondering if I could fit the full display, likely available from aliexpress for buttons, into the stock clocks and install that. What bugged me, and this is a bit daft, was that the door open telltale doesn't indicate which door is open. And the computer using the clock display is a bit irritating too. If it was a cheap and easy option I'd have at it, otherwise it's very low priority..

In the old Golf 4 we fitted Bira Sport clocks (full fis) and had them reprogrammed for needle sweep and stuff... What are the potential upgrade options, if any, for the standard vRS clocks? I like to keep things looking more or less standard looking but with some tweaking where possible.

Lando Norris though!!

Yeah.. Although I remember it the other way round (would bank on me being wrong tbh) I think Toto manages both drivers. Watching the replays.. from behind it looked like there was plenty of room for the Williams to go through with all wheels on the track.

Do you just walk in or ring them?

TPS won't speak to me... they claim trade only, wanted proof last time I rang.. If I could have a face to face with the local VW dealer we'd sort it.. the 2 who run the parts dept are decent.

Trying not to be lazy.... Is 06A145710P right for the DV? And 058906283F for the N75? Too many numbers make my head spin (metaphorically, not literally)