Warrior193

Hi, welcome to the forum, I have not bled brakes for a very long time now - but I would suggest you use a pressure type bleeder system (eezibleed or similar) and start on the rear, wheel furthest from the master cylinder, then the other rear wheel, then front wheel furthest from M.C, finishing with wheel nearest M.C. Other members may be able to advise whether better to do with engine running or not - I'd guess engine running for vacuum assistance. Take care that the M.C reservoir is always kept topped up, or you will have to repeat process all over!

I recall that you had to be careful not to slacken off the bleed nipple too far - just enough to allow fluid flow under fairly hard pressure.

As a slight aside, but a similar problem - I once had something like this on my Mk2 Cooper S (my icon) it was a rally car I built for competition in a couple of Internationals in '73. While out on a recce for the Safari Rally in New Caledonia, the engine revs increased without corresponding increase in speed - it turned out that the driveshaft splines had sheared inside the left-hand hub and the shaft 'wound up' the hub nut, after shearing the split-pin, until it was tight enough to lock the hub to the shaft! I drove most of a division (at least 6 special stages) like that before discovering the problem. I didn't have a LSD fitted.

Hopefully a result.

OP has said that present tyres are not directional.

Also from an older generation where -ve earth was just starting to come in as alternators began to replace dynamos (generators) - you had to be careful that the bumpers didn't touch when connecting vehicles of different polarity - metal bumpers - remember them?

Hi, the tyres I was thinking about are the Goodyear Efficientgrip Performance 2 (B/A rating, not AA) Take a look at something like tyre reviews UK 2020 - these rated 2nd after the Continental Premium Contact 6.

+1

Hi, in regards to the tread depth - swap the 5mm rears to the front and the general consensus is put the new tyres on the rear. The reason for this is that it is generally considered safer for the vehicle to understeer (more grip on the rear) Watch out for any rotation direction arrows if the tyres are 'directional' I will leave tyre recommendations to others - although I did see some new ones recently that were rated as A/A (grip/economy) - I would have to look up the brand. I currently run Continental summers and Alpin5s in the winter.

This is part of the reason why I always use a portable power-pack. The integrated compressor is useful for tyre checks too.

I'd guess that once the jump-leads lit up no one was brave enough to grab the hot clamps.

So now you potentially have exhaust gasses leaking from the exhaust system into your car! Sorry, did you say this was a dealership?

Hi, was this the type of key that has a special pattern moulded into the bottom of the recess? You can get a replacement IF you know what the letter, that was embossed in the middle of the recess, was - I got a spare from Ebay in case I lost or broke the original key. Without the code letter, it is possible to identify the correct key from certain Ebay vendors - some of them post pictures on their site. Otherwise, you will either need a main dealer who has a full set of coded nut adaptors (to identify and supply the correct one) or you will have resort to 'butchering' the wheel bolts off.

Isn't the standard boost something around 1.5 bar? those max. boost pressures look pretty close to that.

It's certainly not a Pontiac Firebird!

I'll buy the LHD, but how on earth did you get the auto? - oh wait, now I see the ATF heat exchanger!

Hi, I would suggest updating your GPS - unless the speed limits on those roads has changed recently, it sounds like something is incorrect in the stored data. When was your GPS last updated? Does your vehicle have traffic sign recognition?

Question, what steps should you take if your car catches fire? Answer, Bl**dy long ones!

I know quite a few members dislike the engine auto-stop, although M6 owners do have rather more control over when the engine stops. Depending on the length of stops I think that you will increase your economy by an indicated 2 - 4 mpg if you leave it enabled - at least that is what I find. Not a real lot, but even a couple of miles is pretty tiresome lugging a jerrycan! It should be noted that the fuel computer may be a little optimistic compared to actually working out miles to litres used, also remember that your odo is probably reading a little high (along with the speedo) when compared with GPS.

Hi John, it depends on where the fraying is - but I rather suspect that the nice man at your dealers is going to say 'that's wear and tear Sir - not covered'.

I would have thought that the DSG consumption should be pretty similar to the manual - possibly a little better. My 1.4 TSI SE L M6 combi regularly gets more than 400 miles to a tank - the most I have ever managed to put is 48 litres (with remaining range showing as less than 10 miles) Most of my mileage is done on an 18 mile round trip commute to work, averaging 22MPH over the past 1500 miles. I tend to shift up at around 2000 RPM - and don't exactly trickle away from the lights!

Hi again, it happened to me too the first time I removed the lid to replace the cabin (pollen) filter. The lever unhooks from a pivot near where the left hand side of the compartment hinges - lift the lever up to unhook, you should be able to fit it back together if the lever isn't broken. The small cog wheel arm runs in the groove with the rack teeth. Rather a fiddly job to get it hooked back on to the pivot - I made up a hook from a strip of alloy to hook/unhook the arm back on as my hands are too big to fit in the gap, it took a few tries! - and quite a few muttered curses - mainly directed at the parentage of the person responsible for the RHD conversion design!

Is that the one with the 357CUi V8?

Hi, that's part of the soft-close strut for the glove compartment. A bit of a fiddly job to put back together. The strut fits on the left-hand side of the compartment lid.

Hi Chaz, take a look on the forum for the gas strut conversion - I think it's listed under bonnet struts. I did mine a few years ago, well worth doing - I used Febi Bilstein gas struts (350 nm)