Warrior193

Welcome to the forum. Try contacting a specialist tuner near you - or contacting a member of a local Car Club. I'm sure either of these could offer good suggestions for sources.

I'd strongly recommend getting the battery fully charged and properly tested before replacing it - and test the alternator output.

What type of use does this car get - is it mainly used for short runs? There isn't normally a lot of headspace between the battery SOC level that the smart charge alternator maintains and the SS cut-off level, plus SS won't be available if one, of at least 6-8, operation parameters are not met.

From what I've seen, it is usually possible to have cruise retrofitted - but I don't think it's a simple DIY job, at a minimum involves replacing the LH stalk and coding. Possibly something best left to a specialist.

Your profile does not give your location - is this a LHD vehicle?

If your front wheels aren't showing any showing brake pad dust at all, I'd get them inspected to check that they were operating correctly - especially if you are experiencing anything 'odd' about the feel of them.

Welcome to the forum. Doesn't your RH column stalk control the indicators and wipers?

The first thing that needs to be done is a scan of the vehicle for any recorded DTCs. Was the car recovered to somewhere that is able do this?

@SoundQualitySkoda Did you find a cure for this problem?

Thanks, I didn't know that. Still learning after all these years, to paraphrase a line from one of my favourite singers.

Yes, music goes into the non-GPS SD port - can't remember, but I think that's port 2.

Which engine has the lower ash count - the 2.0 litre Adblu one? I'd think 60g is fairly high, but I guess it depends on how long it will take to add the remaining 20g.

@Nexus21 How did the door seal check go?

Not due yet if it was last replaced at 90K in 2020 - Skoda UK removed the 5-year cambelt replacement advice about 2 years ago so that their advice aligned with the rest of VAG world group, I believe present advice is around 120 to 140K without any time limit. You will find plenty regarding this subject on this and other VAG forums.

Unfortunately, DVSA were not interested in investigating or escalating the issue when I reported this fault to them last year! Their written response was "We do not consider this incident to constitute a fire risk as there was no ignition source present" I had substantial quantities of petrol running down the front of the engine and over the alternator!

It sounds to me that the ECU is commanding too high closed-throttle revs when engine is up to temperature, you need to have the vehicle scanned for any DTCs (fault codes) recorded. It could be due to a faulty sensor.

Very odd, I'd expect an engine running as badly as you describe, possibly due to the damaged PCV, would display some visible warning indication.

AFAIK, yes damaged PCV can cause engine to run badly, you didn't mention in your first post - but was the MIL fault light showing originally?

I'd be pretty concerned about the wheel rims being 'dented' in any way. How much is 'slightly'?

Increased engine oil level on a TSI could possibly be a symptom of one or more leaking fuel injectors - or coolant leak! Oil level should be checked as recommended and, if level has in fact increased, should be tested for possible contaminants.

I still cannot see an induction intake issue causing the symptoms you described in your first post - in my opinion, you need to be looking at what is causing the bad mis-fires when you do get the engine to run, but only by using higher revs. A first move should be to get the coil packs on a test rig.

Welcome to the forum. Where was the repair for this vehicle done?

Welcome to the forum. Isn't there a USB-C socket mounted on the rear-view mirror?

If the ignition switch was fully switching off, I think it a little unlikely that an earth (mass) cable issue would be the cause. I suppose a welded-closed relay contact could be the cause if the ignition switch tests out as Ok - but I'd be testing that switch first.

Welcome to the forum. That would tend to suggest that the ignition switch is faulty and is not correctly switching everything off when the key is removed.