Warrior193

Hi, I run my Alpin5 winters 0.2 bar higher than summer pressures - which I normally set at around the Eco pressure recommendations.

Hi Strasbourg, do you live anywhere near Wimbledon area ? if so I would be willing to run a comparison run with you sometime. I also have a spare SD navigation card we could try - older maps (not updated recently) but still runs correctly.

Odd, I hope you get resolution soon.

Just don't let SWMBO catch you using the kitchen spatula for this!

No, I believe the idea is to get the longest pipe run cleared first to guarantee that fresh fluid is pushed right through the system. The last time I bled brakes it was usual (showing my age!) for the twin circuits to be split front/rear - I understand that now they are split diagonally so that you will still have one front, one rear brake operating in the case of failure.

Truly a case where a picture speaks a thousand words.

Hi, welcome to the forum, I have not bled brakes for a very long time now - but I would suggest you use a pressure type bleeder system (eezibleed or similar) and start on the rear, wheel furthest from the master cylinder, then the other rear wheel, then front wheel furthest from M.C, finishing with wheel nearest M.C. Other members may be able to advise whether better to do with engine running or not - I'd guess engine running for vacuum assistance. Take care that the M.C reservoir is always kept topped up, or you will have to repeat process all over!

I recall that you had to be careful not to slacken off the bleed nipple too far - just enough to allow fluid flow under fairly hard pressure.

As a slight aside, but a similar problem - I once had something like this on my Mk2 Cooper S (my icon) it was a rally car I built for competition in a couple of Internationals in '73. While out on a recce for the Safari Rally in New Caledonia, the engine revs increased without corresponding increase in speed - it turned out that the driveshaft splines had sheared inside the left-hand hub and the shaft 'wound up' the hub nut, after shearing the split-pin, until it was tight enough to lock the hub to the shaft! I drove most of a division (at least 6 special stages) like that before discovering the problem. I didn't have a LSD fitted.

Hopefully a result.

OP has said that present tyres are not directional.

Also from an older generation where -ve earth was just starting to come in as alternators began to replace dynamos (generators) - you had to be careful that the bumpers didn't touch when connecting vehicles of different polarity - metal bumpers - remember them?

Hi, the tyres I was thinking about are the Goodyear Efficientgrip Performance 2 (B/A rating, not AA) Take a look at something like tyre reviews UK 2020 - these rated 2nd after the Continental Premium Contact 6.

+1

Hi, in regards to the tread depth - swap the 5mm rears to the front and the general consensus is put the new tyres on the rear. The reason for this is that it is generally considered safer for the vehicle to understeer (more grip on the rear) Watch out for any rotation direction arrows if the tyres are 'directional' I will leave tyre recommendations to others - although I did see some new ones recently that were rated as A/A (grip/economy) - I would have to look up the brand. I currently run Continental summers and Alpin5s in the winter.

This is part of the reason why I always use a portable power-pack. The integrated compressor is useful for tyre checks too.

I'd guess that once the jump-leads lit up no one was brave enough to grab the hot clamps.

So now you potentially have exhaust gasses leaking from the exhaust system into your car! Sorry, did you say this was a dealership?

Hi, was this the type of key that has a special pattern moulded into the bottom of the recess? You can get a replacement IF you know what the letter, that was embossed in the middle of the recess, was - I got a spare from Ebay in case I lost or broke the original key. Without the code letter, it is possible to identify the correct key from certain Ebay vendors - some of them post pictures on their site. Otherwise, you will either need a main dealer who has a full set of coded nut adaptors (to identify and supply the correct one) or you will have resort to 'butchering' the wheel bolts off.

Isn't the standard boost something around 1.5 bar? those max. boost pressures look pretty close to that.

It's certainly not a Pontiac Firebird!

I'll buy the LHD, but how on earth did you get the auto? - oh wait, now I see the ATF heat exchanger!

Hi, I would suggest updating your GPS - unless the speed limits on those roads has changed recently, it sounds like something is incorrect in the stored data. When was your GPS last updated? Does your vehicle have traffic sign recognition?

Question, what steps should you take if your car catches fire? Answer, Bl**dy long ones!

I know quite a few members dislike the engine auto-stop, although M6 owners do have rather more control over when the engine stops. Depending on the length of stops I think that you will increase your economy by an indicated 2 - 4 mpg if you leave it enabled - at least that is what I find. Not a real lot, but even a couple of miles is pretty tiresome lugging a jerrycan! It should be noted that the fuel computer may be a little optimistic compared to actually working out miles to litres used, also remember that your odo is probably reading a little high (along with the speedo) when compared with GPS.