UrbanPanzer

really ? or it's never worked...........Not a requirement in Denmark ? would have thought European approval was relevant.

in theory yes, but your not tyring to stop the low beam working, there is no Low / High beam, it's 1 bulb on when headlights are on and the shutter hides half of it until Hi beam is selected then it allows ALL the light from the bulb through. Splitting the feed to the shutter is not ideal, it's keeping the feed to the bulb (dipped beam on) which is the important bit irrespective of when the shutter is activated. The other "issue" is there won't be no feed back to the dash to show the "blue" main beam light, I see your in Denmark, in the UK that main beam indicator not working would (or should) fail the annual MOT test.

A diode just allows flow in one direction only, not sure how it would help. The issue is when the switch (stalk) is flicked forward for main beam, the internal switch in there going "through" the headlight selection switch "disconnects" the feed to the headlight dipped feed because it is wired for a twin filament bulb. The feed which "used" to operate the main beam filament is now instead operating the headlamp shutter in the projector lamp, and with a car wired for projectors, the feed to the headlamp is not cut, it's the shutter opening which gives more light.

That maybe the case, but the Fabia multi function wheel only has switches on the Left side .......the right is blank, so even "if" it's possible to plug and play (which I doubt) with a factory loom ( which would be specific to the Octavia..........I think the Fabia will be possibly "lacking" some of the connections in the car loom for the right hand switches, so you would need to wire these in manually or not use them.

Its not coding, its to do with the way one headlight has a single bulb and the other doesn't. Looking back through the thread, I see you have an early model. This model used a relay for the dim / dip setting on the bi-halogen lights......... attached are more relevant wiring diagrams. You would have to "replicate" this to enable yours to work correctly. Also here is the light switch for "YOUR" car .............you can see it states NOT for bi-halogen, it's internal connections / switches are different. So you would also need a new headlight switch, OR add / delete the current connections in the one you have now.

Well possibly, if you are selecting main beam now and you can hear the shutter open, that part is working correctly, the only thing then which can potentially cut the power to the headlamp bulb is the colum switch. Attached is the 2 wiring diagrams, you can see the difference between them. Now this may not fix it completly as there is more wiring on those with twin filament lamps as there is extra fuses etc, I would be checking the voltage / feed is "cut" at the headlight plug when you select hi beam on the colum switch

Is that from an Octavia ?

its "normal" on the standard headlamps (as per most cars)...but with the projector lamps, as the main beam is switched on, the shutter opens fully and exposes the whole bulb producing extra light, it does not go off. You need to wire them as per a vehicle which came with projector lamps. It's not a simple plug and play swap unfortunately.

you found a picture just like mine !!! 🤣

yep thats the dummy side / park light bulbs. Wired them up on mine.............

it does seem some "early" vRS's had the lights like yours......not sure when it changed to just the projector with shutter as mentioned earlier in the topic. Maybe a facelift thing. Not seen an early vRS close up, so cannot be sure but further up its stated the early ones had 2 H7 bulbs fitted.

not sure who the OEM is, would need to look at the physical part for ident.......... but LOTS of options here.......Delphi is a good bet in the list of many. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/03p131512d

Funny enough I was quite sure to

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6r0915429a-battery-cover-skoda-29833.html

Not sure on which ones and why, mines a later CTHE and I have the switch, but seen a 14 plate without it..........who know's !!

yes the switch is a poor design and the inner springs go weak, this causes the switch to "relax" and the lights go off. Either replace the switch (which is not really needed) or simply remove switch and join the wires together. Some vehicles never had the switch anyway,

You could just fit the factory heating elements to your MK2, "probably" cheaper than Mk3 seats, on the flip side Have fitted these before to a friends land rover and they turned out to be pretty dam good. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231133513362

If it all works like you describe except with that interior switch..............probability is it could be that switch.

Strange for the switch to stop working then as the repairs do not seem linked. It is "possible", battery removal or disconnection has caused this, unlikely but anything is possible with modern vehicle electrics. Just to confirm, when you say multifunction indicator......you mean the indicator stalk ? I thought cruise was on the end of that and your trip was on the wiper stalk ?

What was repaired under the warranty ? We need to see if the repair is "linked"...........

WIth this being the pulley end, probably undoing the 1 nut on the mount (attached) would give you enough to jack / lift it clear. if you do choose this method, keep a close look on all pipes etc when you jack / lift the engine, there is normally lots of play anyway, but always be wary.

have you tried jacking under the sump on the engine itself ? (use a block of wood) if that won't help / give you enough clearance, then undo the engine mount on that side and jack the engine up on that side.

Get what your saying.......................Just MOT'd my RS today. Covered less than 350 miles since last test ...............but boy it's still fun to drive!!! when she comes out to play

first port of call would be fit a NEW battery in each Fob. PS little light is normal, tells you it's working.

Start VCDS Select control modules Login to 09 "Cent Electrics" Once logged in, Click on coding IMPORTANT ********"COPY" the current long code into a text file just incase you make an error and need to re-enter this code******* Then click "long coding helper" Look through the options on each byte section, If DRL's is an option on your vehicle it will be there. If its there, tick to enable, then save logout and see if it worked. NOTE :- this "guide" is with a GENUINE VCDS product, not a cheap copy / dummy interface of EBay........If you choose to do it with one of those, it is at your own risk.