UrbanPanzer

all the bits I used can be bought from here... https://gcauto.co.uk/product/adapter-for-gentex-auto-dimming-mirror-for-audi-volkswagen-seat-skoda/ Mirror is on Amazon UK https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gentex-50-GENK2AM-Auto-Dimming-Rear-Mirror/dp/B00PHLM3EI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=9MYSODL1NZCU&keywords=gentex+dimming+mirror&qid=1681941685&sprefix=gentex+dimmign+mirror%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-2

mmm..........I do doubt Skoda would have put a vRS badge in that location, in fairness, It's irelevant really if it suits what your after

I think it would be cheaper to order that new from the local dealer, I doubt that was from a vRS, more like a special edition like a scout or similar, not ever seen that sliver trim on any vRS

No slip tool box draw liner also works well, used it many times. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AP-NSL-Liner-450mm/dp/B000RA1FD4/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=toolbox+liner&qid=1681289769&sr=8-10

Often windows work from one side or the other pointing to which side has potential broken wires, when neither side works, it has to be a broken wire / feed in the faulty side OR faulty motor. so you need to get into the door to also check the wires further in, failing that it sounds like a new motor is required

I think the number was 5J2 858 179E but it seems ALL the parts catologues don't recognise it and as with LOTS of Skoda parts the confusion between L/H / R/H and LHD and RHD exists, so I took mine out to confirm Number is correct as I assumed....

heres the clips with the air bag removed....

that was my initial thought, unless they did not in some territories..........

That’s the connection to the seat belt pre tensioner which forms part of the SRS system, nothing to do with the rear wiper. if it’s stopped not in a parked position then it may be seized through corrosion on the shaft, check the fuse

Just pop the engine cover off and connect onto either of the engine lifting eyes in the image below.

Don't know what a complaint will actually achieve for the OP, but I would maybe suggest a different MOT garage in future. but I do agree it really should not have passed the MOT looking at the lower shock mount............makes you wonder if anyone even looked underneath. It also highlights the issue of actually assessing corrosion on an MOT, very subjective and down to the individual at the time (if he actually looks). The tester never knows the structural stress a component is under, therefore cannot be fully confident either way on how affected the componentt may be by corrosion thats visibile unless it's actually holed / cracked.

mine sounded awful, but never leaked any coolant at all. Once removed, the amount of wear in the shaft was very surprising.

Could be the wiper motor is not "switching off" properly or has an internal fault causing the drain. I would unplug the wiper motor itself and see if the problem is the same regarding the battery drain, this would prove or not if the wiring to the rear hatch is "ok" and would isolate to where the problem is likely to be........ have you put an ammeter on the battery to read any parasitic drain ? Out of interest what lead you to the rear wiper fuse ? Standard vehicle starter batteries don't like being flattened completely and often damage is done when they are, maybe more relevant to an older battery, so the battery "may" not be able to now hold a charge, because it jump starts and the alternator is providing a charging voltage does not comfirm all is ok.

got mine from https://www.ilexa.co.uk/

VCDS should do this, is it a genuine interface ? Bleed sequence below :- 1. Rear right 2. Rear left 3. Front Right 4. Front left

whatever you choose to install will be to your preference, just like cooking, very subjective and everyone has different opinions / expectations. for what its worth, I have the factory setup in the vRS with the factory nav unit and to me it's pretty dam good all round. I did consider having a seperate sub as the "upgraded" unit I did have lacked severely in the lower frequency bands, consequently I have down graded back to the "lower" spec unit which was an option and it simply out classes it in every way, no need for any more "imo". I was into car hi fi in a big way many many years ago, but that was when the factory systems simply did not compete with the aftermarket stuff available, since the late 90's and onwards factory car systems have improved immensely so "up grading" is not always required. I would suggest get the car, have a listen and go from there.....not 100% on other models but the vRS has seperate component speakers anyway, so additional tweeters are not really needed again, "imo". What I would say is the most popular upgrade is the headunit to add things like bluetooth , hands free phone etc etc and often just a better headunit will improve things no end.

First check would be battery, battery terminals, charging supply / output and alternator connections

They made leads specific to Iphones, Ipods etc and the old mini USB...... Most have been superceeded now especially USB has now changed and soon Apple have to follow suit with using it. What I would suggest is Skoda P/N AZO800002 this is Media in to USB socket, so you can then use whatever lead with whatever phone you charge with and connect that way, also means the phone is closer to you or in a more user friendly place. Equivalent number is 5N0035558 (image attached) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255676703354 NOTE :- some features "may" not work as updates / software moves on with the phones and the media in device lags behind.

I think my point has been misconstrued…….I don’t disagree and I’m not saying the issues are not there, what I’m saying is ALL makes and models have their issues and being a member of a specific make / models forum highlights those issues whatever they are. I remember researching my Land Rover back in 2007, read all the do’s and don’t’s but still bought one 😊 and enjoyed it for 12 years. the CAVE engines cars have a pretty bad reputation, but people still buy them.

whilst I fully understand your choice and reasons, what I would say is don’t always be put off by what you read, and I’m not saying it’s not justified however….. you won’t find forums of people just posting how great their cars are, generally they come here when they have problems to sort. it would be the same for ANY make of car and there will be horror stories for all makes if you joined all the forums for any car your interested in. I would say in the time I have been on this forum after all the early engine problems etc, the vRS does not come up in that many topics, or any more than other Fabia models imo.

This is the same regarding ownership for most dealers, they just get them part ex'd into their own deals, or buy them from main dealers who don't want older cars on the forecourt etc then say all the nice sales stuff about them, yet in reality they don't know the car at all !! If dealers were as confident in any car as much as they hype up the sale of them, then a 12 month warranty included in the price would never be an issue, but they simply could never risk that on any car let alone cars that can have known issues. I think if your after a decent vRS then you have to buy from an enthusiast or similar or maybe from a member on here (not a sales pitch btw). The same would apply back in the old days if you was looking for a fast ford (RS, Cossie,) etc etc. I think I have a good one, had it from 3 years old (2013) and it's been a nice car, lots of fun to drive and I do love the look of it, but mine simply does not get used much now, only did around 1200 miles last year and even the few years before that and if possible it only comes out in nice weather....... so considering selling but definitely not going to give it away as compared to what I see for sale, theres no comparison.

Are you talking about buying a warranty as a seperate thing ? EDIT seen the above post....................... Is that one on Autotrader the top of your budget ?

have we been and looked at this car then ?

Mine does when using say Spotify.....................but has built in bluetooth PS there is posts above that say the Amundsen cannot have built in bluetooth, it most certainly can have that and then there is no need for the additional module.

the percentage is regarding how much below the imaginery 0% line the beam cutoff is. The 850mm figures relate to the vertical distance from the floor to the centre of the beam, mostly where the bulb is. So for headlights lower than 850mm the max height setting is 0.5% below the 0 line, for headlights above 850mm high like some vans for example then the max height they can be is 1.25% below the 0% line because the headlight is to high in relation to the majority of other road users to be set up to 0.5% like most cars. The difference between a headlight set at 0.5% (max) and say 2% is significant in how far down the road the headlight beam pattern shows, you can get a "feel" for the difference by adjusting your headlight range (height switch) at night and see the difference when on a dark road as the beams move up and down.