UrbanPanzer
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Everything posted by UrbanPanzer
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you need to re-read the changes, it was not overturned completely........ basically it affects motorcycles and older cars only.
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It's just a finisher trim / pipe fitted to the standard vehicles ordered depending on what engine you have.....
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Are you trying to get one to replace one thats fubar, OR are you trying to get one so it looks like the Fabia sport one ?
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check ALL the connections are good, clean / corrosion free,
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When you say full heater, what do you mean, the whole heater assy ? or matrix etc ? Is this because of a fault you currently have or are you looking at a retrofit ?
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So here's how a Monte OR RS is wired from factory. you won't have the relay with normal halogen headlamps. The relay controls the shutter solenoids to open the shutter on the single filament bulbs used in the Bi halogen lamps. You "could" possibly just wire a relay up thats fed from a permanent +12v supply, and then is controlled by the main beam +12v output at your existing headlamp connectors............this would then power the relay to output and open the shutters. Im not sure "if" you would have a feedback to light the dash main beam lamp or not doing it this way, I don't think so but could be wrong.
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What happens if you connect another vehicle ? (jump leads) As mentioned I would be checking battery terminals and then also starter motor connections.
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If they are factory fitted and you really want them working............., go to a VAG specialist or similar, or find someone on here close with VCDS, plug in and it will tell you whats faulty (most likely a sensor) On the flip side you could take a punt, by a sensor and check / plug it in each location and see if that works. I think it's far better to fix the factory system than retrofit something else, just my opinion though.
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If you have an AUX in to the stereo, just download a DAB app for your phone, make sure the phone is charged / powered whislt in use, plug that in ?? no cost at all. or https://www.carbuyer.co.uk/tips-and-advice/162334/best-dab-car-radio-adaptors-to-buy
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Sounds like your working well through it Remember, if its "easier" than re-connecting the actual wires back together at the break, you could add small sections or even long sections of wire into the loom to help with space etc when connecting them back up.
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So from the code it "seems" it means the passenger deactivation lamp is faulty. Do you get any light when you deactivate via the key switch on the side of the glove box (assuming you have one) ?? PS maybe worth trying the key switch a few times.
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fair point, being mapped it's going to overfuel / smoke more so sooting could be an issue.
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You have probably cooked the new sensor, or it's just failed again. P code tells you the sensor is faulty, worth checking the wiring to the sensor, if that looks good then another sensor would be first "fix".
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Not sure how good or what you bought exactly from Ebay, but the link below decodes for you, but additionally there is a PDF of codes for FREE...linked on the page, https://vag-codes.info/
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The snap on tool used would have to be able to talk to the airbag ECU, ie it must have the software in it, so it's not neccessarily an error / fault with the vehicle. Talking to Engine management could just mean standard ODB protocols which all vehicles will have, its vehicle specific stuff that would prove the capability of the diagnostic machine. Ideally you need a VW or AUdi or Skoda specialist to plug in and check or someone local with VCDS If you airbag light just came on, then worth a check under BOTH front seats and look for wiring to a yellow plug, ensure they are both connected properly. (DO NOT DISCONNECT WITH BATTERY CONNECTED / IGNITION ON) as this can register a fault as well.
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there is minimal adjustment in the hinges, also there is adjustment on the catch on the door pillar.
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They should fail an MOT for being to low as well for the exact reasons you say, you need some light output when driving at night........... the tolerance below 0% is 0.5 - 4%, lower than 4% will fail, 3% will pass but will be poor for how far the driver can see down the road.
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headlight aim can pass an MOT requirement easily as there is a larger tolerance.............. but it does not mean they are set for optimum vision for the driver. If you can get it on a beam setter at garage, then set them at 0.5% (max height), it makes a huge difference to what you see at night. If you still want brighter bulbs, I use what "were" called Philips extreme power, def improvement over what was fitted, remember also even just new bulbs can make a difference, depending on how old the ones fitted are, the Philips are now called Xtreme vision..... https://www.philips.co.uk/c-m-au/car-lights/headlights/latest#availability=all&filters=CAR_HEADLIGHTS_SU%2CFK_X-TREMEVISION_PRO150 Lots of people use Osram Night breakers to, cannot comment never used those myself, but had the Philips in 3 cars now.
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you can get straight and offset pin bulbs for P21w for the indicators, so it's possible yes you have the wrong ones.
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The black large (2.5mm²) wire is the feed & earth to the rear window heater.......... If it's a smaller black wire (1mm²) then thats the fused feed (fuse 26) to the rear wiper motor Cannot tell the size of the brown, but the largest one in that loom is the earth / ground for the rear wiper motor. Also looking at the attached image...........is the red / grey wire not broke as well ?? .........This is the feed to the RIGHT number plate light Also, behind the LEFT side boot trim is where the boot loom connects to the body loom, releasing that connector "may" if needs be give you some play at the top end where the rubber boot is......
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There is actually 4 ratings in the parts catologue, 70,90,11,120A. The BEST way to be sure is ring a dealer, give them your reg and they will tell you which / p/n required, he or she should be able to tell you the rating as well..............then you go to GSF or eurocar parts and order what you need. PS.......often, infact 95% of the time it's the voltage regulator thats actually packed up, so if you know whats fitted now, that could be a far cheaper fix.
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interesting videos.........2 videos have the same car which had a replacement engine at 6000 miles and 15000 miles, I wonder did it have 2 new engines !!..........simple facts should always be right......
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The radio should not require recoding if not removed from the car, unless the battery went completely flat. VCDS cannot retrieve the radio code, you could remove it and see "if" someone has ever written it on the case (it does happen a lot), failing that, get the P/N and S/N off the sticker once removed and there is places online and Ebay which can get the code for a modest fee of around £11.... example below with 100% money back should it not work, even without that, the Ebay money back guarantee means you have nothing to lose https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324401304812 Some dealers "may" also do it for free........
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I have been considering selling mine as it sits in the garage most of the time. Whats your budget ?
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yes you need VCDS to configure properly. Yes you can probably only buy a later "new" version, probably ends with "R" instead of "H"
