UrbanPanzer

100% yes there is....... its 2.75% and belive me there is a huge difference when setting them to the upper most limit.

this is all you need for GPS, and you can hide it within the dash as per the Skoda accessory fitting guide because the RNS315 was available as retrofit kit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385398623487 Bluetooth is in the headunit (if mac address is populated) nothing more needed for that as for GSM to. The DAB is the one you will need, option to fit aftermarket aerial, or factory shark fin on the roof, will be similar ones as per the GPS linked above.

what type of headlights have you got ? "Normal" or Bi-Halogen (projector)

and there was me thinking this topic was a continuation of the heating problem.............

make sure if your looking for bluetooth and DAB that the unit has it, there is many with both, either or neither, To confirm bluetooth is present you need to see the label and the MAC address populated (attached image), if its all 0's then no bluetooth. DAB is an addtional Fakra connector (black usuually) up in top left area on the back of the unit (arrowed attached image)..............So moral is, don't just buy a RNS315 hoping for all the bits because lots don't have any of them.

from personal experience I would avoid the RNS510 as it does not work well / intergrate with the Fabia audio setup ( and I spent LOTS of time trying all the diff settings in VCDS) however the RNS 315 although not as "trick" sounds far superior to the point I downgraded again from a 510......and although it may be an "older" unit as well, it works very well imo. The phone / bluethooth / DAB etc is also faultless. I think you would need to spend significantly more to get an aftermarket unit to perform anything like the factory units do.

unclip the gaiter, lift it as high up over the handle, should reveal a clamp as in piccy above, then also disconnect the plug to the selector indicator.

mmmmmmmm......parts catologue is down currently.........cannot check. Part number 5J2 941 018 for RHD comes up with same listing.

check for broken wires between the door and the A pillar (under the rubber bellows)

edited to confirm correct fitment..........

be worth checking for broken wires in the door loom...........before condeming the door lock. The key in the door is the "mehcanical" side of the door look which activates the switch / signal to lock the other doors. If the door loom wires are ok, and the drivers door will NOT lock electrically from either the button in the car and OR the remote, then it's a good chance you do need a new lock assy.

make sure ALL previous paired phones within the car are deleted.............then try to re-pair your phone.

could just fit a new loom...........saves messing around and future potential repair "failures" further down the line.............just my opinion.

My point ref the dump valve was it's another boy racer add on, not that it would cause the issue the op was having. As far as R8 coil packs, not sure I would ever bother, but each to their own.

So, all those mods and no tweaked engine map, seems a little odd...............been messed with quite a bit really, did you know it was a "boy racers car" in a previous life ? When you say resonator delete, which part do you mean ? Im assuming centre silencer ?

just to throw more opinions into the pot, my car runs perfectly well on standard or super unleaded fuel. My concern with the ops car would be the fitted RTMG dump valve and R8 coil packs, what else is tweaked ? is it running an ECU map as well ? http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16490/P0106/000262

As limescale etc builds up inside the jet, it really does not take much "debris" to affect the spray pattern, not sure how the plastic would react to removing them and dropping them in some limescale remover in warm water................maybe even lemon or vinegar would work. Might be worth removing and trying it. failing that, replace them.

use the 27 amp wire.....the fuse has to blow first to protect the wiring.

With VCDS ??

Whats your budget ?

Car needs scanning with diagnostic tool, that will tell you whats wrong.

Garages will set headlights yes......................but.......................this has been mentioned many times, just because headlights "pass" an MOT does not mean they are ideally set. There is a large tolerance and being set to the lower limits which are still acceptable for MOT purposes are terrible for the amount of light thrown on the road at night and how far it goes. The amount of variation can be experienced when using your headlamp range switch and seeing the huge difference between setting 1 and 4 for example and how far you can see in front of the vehicle, especially on unlit roads. In combination with setting to optimum allowable height and a set of decent brighter bulbs makes the Projector lamps more than acceptable.

Your quoting what I said ? The bit in black you highlighted is what I said, or have I misunderstood your point ?

The manual ones have no motors, they are controlled / moved by flexi shafts, levers and worm gears.... The heater box "assy" is different considerably between "manual" heating and "climate" heating. Even "if" they were the same, you still have to remove the dash to remove the heater to replace the temp motor. Might I suggest looking for somone on here close to you with VCDS to plug in and check the heater / climate motors and valves are working, there may even be a fault code potentially telling you whats wrong.

I've checked the rubber casing between the door and pillar, no signs of leaks and all cables intact. So, you have pulled the bellows back at both ends (door and A pillar end) to see / check for broken wires ?