Me-109

Haven't YouTubed anything yet. Mine's a 61 plate so heading on for 10 years old. Looks reasonable decent condition so hoping for just a quick wire brush of the bolts, rattle the nuts off and see if I can get one of my trusty chisel in as a spreader.

Not sure if either of you can help with this one, but have just put up a related post/thread about strut replacement Strut replacement

Got a broken spring on the offside and previous MoTs have sometimes identified a light misting on the nearside strut. I don't think the offside is much better so going to replace both struts, springs and top mounts (while I'm there). At least that means I can fully assemble them on the bench, so to speak, and speed up the strip/install. So the question is, can I pull the strut without having to pull the driveshaft? These are 50mm struts, if that makes a difference (it might with length)? Ball joint and/or track rod end to get wiggle room, is that all that's required? Bonus question, can you fit a new spring just using the threaded-bar type spring compressors? When I did the Fabia's springs last year I ended up taking them to the local tyre-and-exhaust type places for them to use their hydraulic compressor. Just the wrong size or spacing of coils for both sets I have.

Did mine on the car. Can't remember if 3 or 4 bolt fixing. Think one of them was slightly more difficult to get at but generally straightforward. Run some emery cloth or similar around the carrier where the hub sits prior to fitting up the new one. A smear of copper grease may not harm either.

I think a method my brother has used is to fit the socket and breaker so the tip of the bar is on or near the ground, then engage 1st/reverse to suit so that as the car moves it levers the bar enough to crack the nut off. It might depends on the surface you have to work with - you don't really want the tip digging in.

I've had to use a short scaffold bar slipped over the end of a 30 or 36 inch breaker bar. The scaffold bar used to be my dad's, no idea how he got it.

Bought a big drum off the Bay for something like 40 quid. Specs checked out on website and worked across three cars in the fleet. Done a change for each one and all running fine (as far as anything oil related).

UK cluster would be primarily MPH Speedo dial. This is mostly a UK forum so that's what you're likely to get by asking here. Would that be a problem with KSA registration?

Visually they are very different calipers - one has a ribbed top, the other smooth and rounded. A quick eBay search will reveal that you can buy a new one for nothing more than the cost of a rebuild kit. That will also tell you which size it is. Buy another one of those. For the correct side since they are handed. I'd agree on the rigid lines as well. Try some local motor factors instead of a garage as they may well be able to make them up for the cost of a couple of ends and five minutes of time.

If so I wonder if the incorrect discs have been fitted and are contacting the carrier (incorrect depth rather than incorrect OD). That wouldn't explain the fault light, which I suspect is linked to the wheel speed sensor as above. Either disturbed rust or cable damaged during the brake job.

There is still probably more value in the car than the cost of the job. Only you in your particular circumstances can decide if it is worth doing, or just scrap it.

I've just recently bought a disc and pad set from them via their eBay shop, checking via message that they were the right pads. After fitting the discs I opened the pads box and found they were incorrect. They might be correct for some Mk2s as per the box, but they need to be Lucas calipers. See the Pagid brakebook: https://www.brakebook.com/bb/pagid/en_GB/articleSearch.xhtml?result=1607301027716&showResult=1 Just saw the last post after posting this. Indeed 282mm rear discs fitted to Octy2 vRS, Leon Cupras, a raft of Golfs (not just GTis). Again the Pagid list can help identify.

Only you can price up insurance and know if you are prepared to pay it. My lad's insurance on the Fab VRS, Fiesta ST and Mini Cooper S have all been eye watering. Makes my eyes water 'cos I've paid most of it. It's a family hatch, so a jump in size and may seem a bit 'old man' if you're a young 'un. Do you want petrol or diesel? Petrol models come with their own issues. Diesel versions have typical diesel issues that can get expensive once they get to that age/mileage - DPFs, cambelts, the fact they are often bought to do high miles in the first place or end up with an owner or two that only goes to the shops and then it's back to DPFs...

Result!

I had this in a Mazda 6 once. Worth checking the sill drains.

I've seen them listed for SEATs and Audis with this engine, but nothing for the Octy. Different image/user base or subtle differences in the underpinnings? Same platform so you would think ok, but maybe longer back box section? Maybe replacing the mid-pipe for a straight-through piece would give you what you want?

Is it just when cornering or does it pull in a straight line? Wondering about sticky brake caliper.

Cheers. Will give that a go later on pc instead of tablet.

If the full red text is the decrypt key it's no longer working. Anyone got any other options?

I can't imagine any change in grip by changing sidewall height.

Also the ridges are on the inside of the bolt head, leaving the outside smooth and round, IIRC. You can get impact sockets for this sort of thing for air/electric impact tools. Try Machine Mart for starters and then check online for similar cheaper stuff.

At least your mechanic is talking sense. All the labour involved in doing the seal is necessary for the clutch, so with that mileage it would be a good call. Have just done the opposite with the lad's Mini, doing the crankshaft oil seal when we had to get the clutch done. Will likely last for ages without serious consequence, but will get messier over time and could lead to contamination and slippage of the clutch.

Try the Classifieds here. There's a set of Superb 19"s for 600 quid on there.

Mine is just shy of 100K now and running sweet and pretty silent. Where's a bit of wood to touch? I appreciate there's another 25K on that and with no idea how it has been driven and maintained there isn't much to advise. If you've evidence of regular oil changes, that's good. Mine has been on extended intervals but I tend to do an oil change mid-way through anyway. There are those that suggest swapping to fixed intervals is better for these engines. I got mine as a one-owner with 53K on it about 3 years ago. I've replaced the front wheel bearings, otherwise I think it has just been service items/consumables.

When I read the first post I was going to suggest that as a joke - albeit a logical thing that sprang to mind.