Me-109

Maybe low battery that had recovered by the time she got it home?

If you've ruled out drop links being faulty, then the most likely fault is the strut top mounts rather than the ARB bushes.

You might need the security code to get it to work, which if you don't have can be sourced from many eBay sellers by providing them with the unit's serial number and 10 or less of your English Pounds. Module coding I know nothing of.

I was pointed to eBay where various sellers are able to provide the code based on the device's serial number. Cost me a fiver or maybe a little more and I got a response within about 20-30 mins.

I'd have gone with wheel bearing too.

2 years on and I've been having horrible knocking and graunching sounds for a while. Finally changes the drop links in November or early December last year. No difference and wasn't that convinced it was the fault, but they're cheap enough. MoT couldn't find a problem, but did give it a good rattle around on the shaker plates, where you could feel a knock in the drop link and the strut. It did rule out the arb bushes which I had my suspicions about and still haven't polybushed, even though they are sat in the garage still. Decided the top mounts were the most likely fault but have been waiting for it to warm up and stay dry long enough. So, finally pulled the strut, replaced the top mount (another Febi) and refitted - all without the d1cking about and hassles last time round. I did discover a torn CV boot so had to visit the local factors for a new one of those, and picked up a CV joint in case that didn't play ball coming off, but all was good. If you've got a knock that sounds like drop links, as well as a knock on lock that sounds like a CV joint, with a grating noise while turning, it might just be a top mount. Funnily enough, the one removed from the car feels smooth in the hand.

Agreed it's off the Fabia. Wife asked me to remove it from hers as it's useless for the jute bags we use that are nicely rectangular. Might be ok if you throw in loose items or use plastic carriers (not that you can fasten it into the Octy).

Have a search for issues and repairs threads. I think it hides in the rear left, can't remember if in front or behind rear wheel. I think it's accessible if you take the wheel arch liner out, rather than going under the boot floor/carpet, which make sense to keep the sounder external.

Car alarm battery packing up?

Battery hadn't gone flat and car never felt like it was struggling to start. Removed radio and unplugged / replaced connector, checked cables (all ok), switched on again and still got SAFE message and code entry. Noted the serial number and sent it off to one of these eBay vendors, refitted it all, switched it on again and it went straight to radio! 🙄 Got the code shortly after so later on had to remove it all again to power it off so that I could test the code. All fine in that regard, so if it is some weird intermittent fault at least I can restart. Went looking through last messages for @Rustynuts as was considering upgrading the 310 from the Octy and putting that into the Fab, but see his circumstances have changed and that might not be as easy through other means.

Compression test on each cylinder, check for sparks, check for fuel in fuel rail. Each one of those will narrow down the issue.

2010 Fab 2 recently acquired has, after a month of ownership, suddenly decided to spit its dummy out and looks like it has lost the radio coding/pairing with the clocks. What might cause it to do this and is there any chance it will restore by disconnecting the battery for half an hour? None of the doc pack includes a code and the radio manual suggests if you ever do need one you have to ask your dealer (for a reaming, no doubt). If the battery thing doesn't work, can VCDS or VAGCOM interrogate the car and find the code?

Did the door panel rivets look original? Electric rear windows? I wonder if someone has been in to change the window regulator. The lock is probably the last thing you would be connecting. They are a pain to get off and maybe the spring clip is broken, so might have come adrift if it had been reconnected.

2004, 54 plate. I was wondering whether to pull out something like the steering sensor, PAS, lambda, window motors? Any handy parts references to check out?

After two years I doubt you'd get anywhere with a claim against the garage, unfortunately. Prices are indeed silly and what you get for your money is not good (from what I've seen recently). Repair seems sensible if the rest of the condition of your car is good. 100k is not that far any more.

I have a spare lambda sensor from the earlier 16v, which I think fits. It doesn't really smoke or burn oil but smells very rich - has for the 3 or so years we've had it. A failed sensor would surely have thrown up a light and code. Of course the only way I can confirm a fix is to go through a retest, which means doing the rest, and I really can't face it. It's still a good car and would be a nice starter car car for someone. Having been car shopping recently I'm astounded by how badly looked after some cars are and how shabby the interiors are.

The wife has just picked up a Mk2 1.2 TSI, replacing her old Mk1 1.4 16v. That itself replaced a 1.4 8v. My lad had a dodgy vRS at one point too. So, I've replaced a few window regulators, a couple of power steering pumps, steering sensor and some sundry items. The 16v failed the MoT on emissions and some suspension stuff. The emissions didn't chuck any engine lights up so could be a ballache to resolve, so it is scrappy-bound. Is there anything worth stripping off the old one to keep in the spares box?

India though, so maybe different spec even though trim level is the same name.

You will need to remove the caliper carriers, which is a task in itself. Worth getting replacement bolts for, as they are a splined head which is not particularly deep. If they get a bit chewed up on the the way out you might not want to reuse them as they will not want to come out next time. That might be another 50k miles and not your concern of course.

I'm not familiar with the dash lights for the diesels. My lad had a BMW which had a glow plug in the DPF to help it burn. I just wondered if it was using the same light here to indicate a regen in process. Sounds like Skoda have a distinct dash light for that.

Does it come on with DPF regen?

Why did the car have a new ECU? Was that a failed attempt to fix the same problem?

Might well be worth a punt, depending on what they are asking. Lots of miles regularly could easily be low-stress motorway miles, so not so much clutch wear. Routine servicing means careful enough owner and probably wants to reduce breakdowns etc. Long term owners tend to point to reliability too. If no problems engaging gears or pulling load from low revs, clutch should last you a while with your miles, but replacement cost could easily mean it easier for you to write off the cost of the car Vs DMF clutch replacement.

It would depend on other markers for me - service history, state of repair (what it looks like), length of ownership and how many owners, etc. I've got one I bought with 53k on and now has 109k, is oil tight, runs sweet and doesn't make any noises I would consider nasty. I've replaced consumables and outside a couple of bulbs the only failure has been one of the front springs. The same age car with 10 owners would have me thinking there might be something wrong with it.

You might need a left-hand drive clutch as they spin the other way. 🙄