Me-109

I think they would be the lower arm rear bushes, aka console bushes. You can buy those as either a bush complete with the aluminium casting, or just the bush that you will need to push out the old and push in the new. You can also get polybush versions. You can use reciprocating saws etc to cut out the old bush and then just push in a new one with basic tools like a wide vice, or you can get removal tools off the various auction sites for sensible money.

I think the fix for this I've seen is to use a tie-wrap around the spring clip to compress it first. As you knock the joint on it moves that cable tie out of the way along the splines. Snip it off before you get the joint fully seated. Not tried it myself, but may work. They don't really sit that proud of the splines.

Rubber mallet / deadblow hammer = job done 😉

Might want to repost or have moved to MK3 board.

Or grab a 1.4tsi petrol and avoid all those stinky diesel issues and get similar economy, albeit at slightly higher road tax. Small price to pay.

I would only suspect a battery if it was struggling to turn over. This is probably more associated with intake temperature being incorrectly read. Not sure if that engine has a separate inlet manifold temp sensor, so more likely to be the MAP (Mass Air Pressure) sensor ( I don't think the diesel uses a MAF - Mass Air Flow).

If you do it online you will immediately receive into your account and/or by email the updated documents. You will have no problems taxing online in respect of insurance, and you can check MoT status at any time. On getting back from my test it was showing on the DVLA's site and third party sites like Vehicles more.

Sound is a pretty good word to describe the 'N' in NVH.

Wouldn't have thought the spacers were threaded? Isn't it just longer bolts through some 10mm plate?

The 'E' looks like it means it's an exchange priced part, that is you need to send them your old one and then you get a part-refund on the price of the replacement. The onlyones I've seen like that with a quick look are more expensive even factoring in the return refund.

I found you could get calipers for not much more than the cost of a service kit, that saved the time and mess of a rebuild. Just a thought.

Gleaming engine! 😎

Check under the scuttle panel cover on that side to make sure the drain holes/slots are clear of debris and coagulated dust. Check also the air inlet to the cabin heater as that can pass water into the cabin past the seal, which might explain the condensation you found. Note, if you go poking under the carpet and insulation there may be more damp than you expect. While you are on, peel back the wheel arch liner at the back of that front wheel an make sure it is clear of leaves etc. I think what you may be hearing when trying to start, or at least turn the ignition on, is relays chugging, so it may just be a simple fix at this point.

That's certainly not a stock MK2 sat-nav system. Aftermarket or later model?

'Most' I suppose depends on the individual places and their equipment/software for diagnostics. A VAG specialist shouldn't have an issue. For others they might use an Autel or similar computer and that would depend on the licences and modules they have paid for as to whether it works on VAG cars and/or of a particular age.

Then another 50 quid for a battery and charger 😷

Probably worth trying to get someone (garage or individual) to try to get some live data from the wheel speed sensors. VAG use these in place of actual tyre pressure monitors to detect a pressure drop by one wheel reporting a higher speed than the others. It could be linked to the ABS kicking in too as if one is under-reporting speed it might think there is a lock-up. Pulling to one side could be a stuck caliper, but you should be able to feel that as added heat compared to the other wheels. Road speed issue could be affecting the auto box too, as that is likely to figure in the inputs for when to change, along with engine speed. If all the sensors have been changed it could be that one is duff, or the sensor ring on the back of the wheel bearing is damaged or defective. Not sure the starting issue is related to any of that and could just be coincidental. I'd be looking for MAF/MAP faults, or inlet temp sensor.

In 11 years the car has probably rotted away, died a death or long since been sold on. Is the forumite even around? Edit: to answer my own question, OP not seen since 2015.

Ah, diesel! Wouldn't have expected a glow plug issue to materialise once you'd been running the engine a while as you say, but it might point to an injector going bad. Not sure if they store codes for bad operation or if you have to catch it at the time.

Well that's not to say that the quality of the replacement parts is any good. I had a Febi top mount fail inside12 months, but that sounded like the droplink had failed - clicking rather then groaning. Could easily be something daft like the rear bush rubber moving inside the casting. Hope they sort it for you.

In what circumstances? Just driving straight, cornering, turning? Can you work out if it's one side or both? May be shot bearings in the strut top mounts.

Possibly a failing coil pack?

I'd go with cam chain rattle.

Relays? The alarm system must bypass the relay for the turn signals to work/not work as you describe, and it can't be a fuse if they do work at all. Headlights I would have expected to be paired so you get both headlights off one relay, but maybe not.

Mine doesn't get that much use these days. The car slightly more, but anyway, discs.... Have Pagid rears that have been OK but pick up lots of deposits from the handbrake (you must use matching pads with these or they're terrible). I did have Brembos (discs and pads) on the front that probably had between 15k and 20k on them. Definitely warped. No issue with the hubs or clean backplates, definitely the discs. Not a lot, but enough to feel under braking. Swapped them out and back to fine-and-dandy.