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Do you get the immobiliser warning light on the dash ? The EGR can stick fully open, engine then chokes on its own exhaust gasses ( you could temporarily blank off the EGR or disconnect it from the inlet manifold to check ).

Next time the car is up to temperature, feel the 2 coolant pipes that pass through the bulkhead to the heater matrix. With the heater fan on, one should be hot & the other a lot cooler. If they are both cool you may bee have an air lock or the aux coolant pump is faulty. If they are both hot it could be that your heater matrix is contaminated & unable to transfer much heat.

" .i used to turn my ignition on...and i could hear a churping sound from engine as if though something was turning on for a few seconds (like systems waking up) i no longer get that sound? any ideas what that sound relates to? " When the throttle valve gets stuck closed, the electric motor that drives it still tries to turn. It drives through plastic gears that turn the valve plate. When the valve plate was stuck it will make the gears slip against one another wearing the teeth & making that chirping noise. Now that the valve plate can turn freely, no more noise. The plastic gears will be worn & may eventually fail. It is worth rotating the EGR discharge tube180 degrees to help stop further carbon build-up on the valve. Did you look up into the inlet manifold when you had the valve off, it will be full of carbon & probably restricted about 50%.

It's incorporated within the DPF, so only really accessible from the engine compartment. Haven't heard of one being stolen, yet.

Try squirting some Easy Start or Brake/ Carburettor Cleaner into the intake while it's being cranked. If it fires you will know it's a fuel problem, possibly fuel tank pump.

I would imagine that a fault code will be generated, but I'm fairly sure it doesn't bring up the engine/ emissions light on the dash. You could always add a resistor across the removed plug which would simulate the disconnected solenoid to eliminate the fault code. As stated above, the side effect is that the engine will take a minute or two extra to reach operating temperature.

If the car is out of warranty & you don't want to shell out the £500+ to change the pump, just disconnect the brown electrical connector shown in the picture above. The pump then reverts to pumping all the time, just as previous coolant pumps without the sleeve have always done. The engine might take an extra minute or two to reach operating temperature, but no big deal.

While you had the throttle valve removed, did you look back up the pipe towards the inlet manifold ? Mine was greatly reduced in diameter with black gunge from the EGR. These are the EGR simulators/ emulators if you decide to go down that route :- cayb egr emulator | eBay The EGR sticking is a source of lots of problems with this engine including failed DPF regens.

" Do you know if vcds could pinpoint if it's the pedal or throttle? " Pretty sure there would be separate fault codes for a pedal fault or throttle valve in VCDS. Also there would be measuring blocks to read sensor data. This is a guide to available measuring blocks:- https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/

Was it, or had it been raining when the original fault occurred ? If so, could be a small water leak under the windscreen area dripping onto the throttle pedal or wiring.

What is the engine code, some can be fitted with an Emulator which disables the EGR. Engine will put out more NOx, depends if you are happy with that.

" I had to jump start the car around a week before after -9 overnight temp. I'm thinking it's time for a new battery, didn't know these were symptoms of poor charge/battery condition. " It's always best to start your own new thread, as this is a slightly different topic. If you car hasn't had a lot of use over the last few weeks, I would try giving the battery a good slow charge for 24 hours. An 096 battery is the correct type. Higher CCA & Ah rating is always good. No recoding required.

I think you will find the ECU is missing one of the several 12v supplies it needs. You will need a wiring diagram to check. VCDS will probably pinpoint the missing supply.

ABS, Steering & Traction Control are all linked & need a good battery voltage to work. The dimming headlights suggest the battery isn't getting a good charge from the alternator. I would check the battery voltage, should be over 14v with the engine running. If not that, you will need a VCDS scan.

In Tech1e's post he says " Halfords sell a length of 7mm ID fuel hose, does the job just fine." As long as it's the same pipe your talking about.

Having read posts on here about similar problems with the dash cluster, the problem usually points to the green & black multi-pin sockets soldered to the PC board. Some of the solder joints become " dry " so don't give a good connection. The remedy is to re-flow the " dry " solder joints. They usually look matt finish & sometimes splintered looking. Probably just as well to re-flow all the joints, but you do need to be handy with a soldering iron, or find someone who is.

03G 906 051 E Sensor, Boost pressure, Air pressure sensor, Height adaptation, Sender unit, Intake air temperature OEM VW, AUDI, SKODA, SEAT, PORSCHE (autodoc.co.uk)

Think it is a combined pressure & temperature sensor in the one package.

The MAF Implausible signal can also be an indication of a sticking EGR valve, which is a common occurrence on this engine. Suggest the EGR probably needs replacing, or fit an EGR Emulator to disable it.

It might be worth checking the wiring inside the rubber bellows by the drivers door hinges. The wires become brittle & sometimes break or the insulation fails inside the bellows, due to the bending they get when the door is opened. They can then short out to one another giving various faults. Worth a check.

" When I open the door I notice the dashboard lights are not coming on that normally would. " The immobiliser is held in the dash, so if it's not getting any power, the immobiliser will kick in after a couple of seconds. Can only suggest you check all fuses including those in the engine bay fuse box.

Sounds as though there is a loss of vacuum needed by the brake booster ( servo ), or a leak in the pipework. You will have to advise the engine code ( four letters ), as there is a big difference in how the vacuum is derived between diesel & petrol engines. To test, repeated press the brake with the engine off, the brake pedal will go hard after a few applications. Push down on the brake pedal then start the engine, the pedal should start to sink towards the floor without any extra foot pressure if vacuum is being produced.

If the temp gauge gets to 90 quickly & stays there, the thermostat will be ok. This presumably is the EA288 engine, so has an electric auxiliary coolant pump to supply the heater. That might have failed or the heater matrix might be clogged up.

Guessing the low oil pressure is due to the battery getting low after continued cranking. Try spraying some Easy Start or Brake Cleaner into the air inlet while cranking, if it fires you will know its a fuel related problem. I would charge the battery before going any further. It won't need the glow plugs to start, now the outside temperature has risen.

Have a look at this parts diagram brake master cylinder; reservoir - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com) The reservoir pushes in to 2 rubber bungs mounted in the Master Cylinder. There is a screw through the MC that screws into the reservoir which will need to be removed. Part No 2. Then just lever up the reservoir. Best if you siphon out as much brake fluid as you can first & have rags underneath to catch the rest.