brettikivi

that has to do with the gearbox. The DSG is rated to 2500.

everything aligned so far (literally). Lots of money spent. €500 on the tyres. €85 on getting them onto the rims and onto the car again. €800 on the waterpump / cambelt replacement. Another €6,5 on a liter of G12++ and water, as it appears there was a minor airlock in place and so when I took the car out onto the motorway, it burped itself and BIMd at me. No temp issues, but apparently coolant level. Got BIMd again an hour later for tyre pressures. they are now set to 2.7/3.1 for the trip. Hankook K125s: impressed. Quiet. Better (stiffer!) ride. oh, and the tie rod is done, but the boot is not (will have to do that when back). The alignment wasn't out that far to my eyes, but it's a hell of a lot nicer drive now. Much improved.

took it to the local mechanic today. No noises found, no real issue apart from the tie rod itself having some play and the tracking is probably out (uneven wear on the front tyres). It's going in next week for cambelt & water pump and a set of Hankook K125s. Tie rod set for Friday up here, then an alignment. Will see if the times align... Currently looking good for the summer vacation end of next week.

looking on rrr, i see the other way around - https://rrr.lt/en/used-part/cmp4277-3v0601025f-skoda-superb-b8-3v-r18-alloy-rim?_gl=1*1az7lhc*_up*MQ..*_ga*NjIyMDM5MTQ2LjE3MjA3ODc1Nzc.*_ga_09YZB474KL*MTcyMDc4NzU3Ni4xLjEuMTcyMDc4Nzc3Mi4wLjAuMA..#gallery-6 that's definitely black, but the spoke says silber. I assume these are the Triton rims? I suspect they have been superseded by a version for a different model; 17s seem to be with a Karoq part number (57A...) and 18s with Kodiaq (565...) Can you find them on kopacek?

no difference in stop start seen with a rather larger 2kW system. There will be a big difference between 1 and 2. I would try to listen to the Focals if you can, personally I much prefer fabric tweeters over metal.

I would be reading with VCDS or so what the actual temperatures are; it's possible you have an issue somewhere in the system, along with air, which could cause issues. From your description I would expect a minor leak somewhere that's got a lot worse. Possible a failed connector, something like that.

personalization may be in the menu, but it may not be as the car is too new. Depends on the key used to unlock as which user is identified, I believe. But Users, in the Menu on a Superb? Never seen, mine never had it. Personalization somewhere, yes, but that did very little, and it was in the car settings menu (not the one visible there).

^^ this. Always clear it once, and if it recurs, you may actually have an issue.

it certainly used to be standard to have the prep on many models across the range elsewhere in Europe. IIRC all Superbs, Octavias, Kodiaqs and Karoqs have prep here as standard. Other gems from the Skoda Trailer Operation PDF (on erWin): "The hitch is a safety part. Therefore, only a design-approved device developed for the car in question may be used. It is recommended to use trailer hitches from the Škoda range of accessories as they are the same as the factory-fitted devices. For these devices, the supplied installation instructions are also agreed with Škoda" and "The following information applies exclusively to SCALA vehicles: ♦Retrofitting of the hitch is only possible on vehicles that have a factory-fitted preparation for the installation of the hitch. PR number “1D7”. With regard to vehicles with preparation for the installation of the hitch, a different rear axle is installed at the factory. ♦ Retrofitting of the hitch is not possible on vehicles that do not have a factory-fitted preparation for the installation of the hitch. PR number “1D0” and then the expected part about the cooling system: "Since trailer operation makes higher demands on the engine cooling system, as far as technically necessary, the cooling system must be reinforced when a hitch is installed at the factory. This occurs e.g. by installing a stronger or second radiator fan and / or a larger radiator. The cooling system should be strengthened, even with a retro‐fitted hitch, if it has not already been carried out at the factory. Otherwise, under extreme engine load (mountains, high outside temperatures, high trailer load), overheating of the cooling system can not be ruled out. When converting, the parts listed in the Electronic Catalogue of Parts (ETKA) must be used for engine cooling when towing a trailer. In addition, the work instructions of the corresponding repair manuals must be observed. The cooling system gain can be omitted if it is ensured that the engine is not under extreme stress, e.g.: ♦ permissible trailer weight not reached by a considerable margin ♦ no high outside temperatures ♦ no long, steep climbs ♦ no trips at high altitude In any case, the coolant temperature gauge must be carefully observed. If the needle of the display moves very far into the hot area, reduce speed immediately. Even a cooling break must be inserted if required. The engine must run at idling speed for about 2 minutes to prevent heat accumulation" Then other bits: - axle weight limits have an effect on towing weights - specifically cars like mine with 4x4 DSG 110 or 140, 147, 176kW are only permitted 2500kg tow weights on factory fitted bars, otherwise it's 2300kg. And yes, the diesel manual 4x4 7 seater has "-" entered across the board. The highest a 7 seater is allowed is 2000kg. So I'm assuming the 7 seater bits took out some strengthening in the boot area.

also, decisions need to be made: Lazer Linear 18 Elite or 24 Elite. Or a 12 and then a pair of Triple R 750s.. the 24 is massive but should fit underneath the parking sensors; the 18 would fit easier. I think it might be the 18.

First money spent: a new rear wiper at €13. Return from the summer house today: 5.4l/100, so 52mpg. Not bad.

Pirelli Scorpion Verde in 235/55R18. I will get the micrometer out tomorrow and confirm the tread depth, as a quick check yesterday said only 3mm at the front. Will confirm. I currently suspect a combo of depth and age (they are the originals, so 6 years old).

Had some super heavy rain on the way home today; braking in the wet was unpleasant with the tail wagging way more than it should. The tramlining is also terrible on these summer tyres (the winter ones were nowhere near as bad). Any suggestions? I figure an alignment is a good start - i know the pressures were good when the rims were put on about 5 weeks ago. The tyres are nearing end of life, but they had >4mm when i measured, so I figured they should go back on for one more summer.

even i switched a couple of weeks back Why 17", though? I might actually go for three sets of rims, with a transitional central-european winter tyre for late winter / spring and again early autumn and real spikes for the ice season. With 19" for summer. The car came with unspiked winter wheels and they're ok but spikes really are the non-plus-ultra, especially for wet ice.

how many miles on the car? What engine? 280 Petrol?

they have a bcm, which is not a specific battery management system but which does regulate the charging voltages and current according to both state of charge and battery type - agm needs a higher voltage if I remember correctly - and you'd fry a standard one earlier if you push that much voltage to it. in the interest of longevity, get it coded. should just be the serial / type and take about 5 mins. Bret

Revision, always is. First 3 characters are model code and type (3v3 for hatch, 3v5 for combi) then area, then part, then revision. So an 8W0601025 is a rim from an 8W version Audi, but the letters will tell you the design. Some others like the LIN lights are A B C D for Front Left, Front Right, Rear Left, Rear Right etc. even numbers are on the right of the car, odd on the left. The first characters tell you the car it was designed for. 8W = chassis, 0 = no type specifics, 601 = outside etc. As a part is improved, new indices are created (original ARBs on the A2 are "B" index, the last OEM ones are "M", I think) but they should be taken to mean a specific version or revision of the part, not that they are necessarily a like-for-like replacement.

why is this a surprise? good damping with softer springs will deliver a better ride than with stiffer springs. Spring rate changes will be the key part for the axle weights. Weight differences aren't that big across the range IMO. I have B8s elsewhere and really like them. I would have gone B6 on the Superb, specifically to give more body control. I would also have added a rear ARB to slow the roll. With 18" I would expect a decently compliant ride from anything other than a sportline. 17" and standard with rough road package was floaty and did not inspire confidence on twisties, but I didn't use the car for that and won't use the Kodiaq for that, either; that's why there are 3 cars in the fleet. I used the Superb for the 800km round trip to the office in one day and did that yesterday in the Kodiaq. The sport setting on DCC on the Kodiaq also doesn't harmonize here on back roads at all. Looking to switch to 19" to make "normal" better in the summer before messing with dampers unless there's another reason to do it. The question remains "what are you looking for"? Compliance? Lack of roll? Slidability? Control when drifting? Better body control? High speed stability? Long drive comfort? Back road hoonability? WAF? A car that "breathes" with the road, rather than fighting it into submission? What tyre size is on the car? That will make a significant difference. That Skoda part number for the B4 is with the rough road package, not sold in the UK. Bilstein catalog and pricing for the 272:

Was at my hifi guy today. We'll be trying to use the high level output of the OEM system into a miniDSP C-DSP 6x8 DSP, then from there to a 4 channel amp for the fronts and a mono with 1.6kW for the sub. I have 8 outputs so that should work. Looking at it, it seems that the situation under the bonnet is very similar to the Superb, with an M6 bolt available, so pulling a 25mm2 cable into the car should be pretty simple. The sub amp will go next to the spare wheel, we'll try hiding the DSP and 4 channel under teh dash again. I have Canton, which adds another layer of complexity. For plug and play, I would go with Match. Otherwise... I liked the tonality of the Helix in their previous home in the Superb, so I'm looking forward to this. Lots depends on your requirements and budget. What do you want and how much are you prepared to spend to get it? This install alone is likely to hit €5-600, and we already have all the bits and a bunch of knowledge. That doesn't include any tuning (as I will get to do that), that would add another €150 or so.

I've seen this error on my Superb when the connectors on the back of the radio weren't in properly.

Easy entry completed. Can't do the GRA change I wanted to, though, as I don't seem to have all the bytes shown. Will test the security code I saw tomorrow. Cabling for the light seems painless enough. LIN is also present in the doors if I wanted to go that route for the pocket lights and again for footwell ones... I'm just not sure that's what I want to do. I think i'm going to get a bunch of Wemos D1 minis and see if WLED will sync cleanly. If it doesn't, I have a W32 with 16 outputs, but then they need to get to where they should be, so it will need to be installed in an interesting place to keep cable lengths short.

Erwin done, that was painless. Now to find the cabling I'm interested in. Tailgate looks easy, the front light should be simple, too.

I had my Superb towbar freeze in place before, I'll lube this one before winter to try and avoid the issue.

I've driven it more and have been searching. First up: the cruise / limiter thing should be just a case of editing Byte 23 of the set. I'll maybe play with this later today. I also have a couple of other coding things to do; the walk-away locking and something else I don't remember but printed the other day. Will also be looking to do the button on the tailgate as described elsewhere, there's a guide in German - it adds the "shut tailgate and lock the car" button in place of the "shut the tailgate" button alone. Found some lights that would work, need to investigate how low I want to put them, as the 24 is too big to fit between the sensors. It's also something that will require me to have a switch inside as it will take me over Ref 100. Disappointed with the lights at some level; it was almost dark when I drove home from the airport at 1:30am this morning, and... yes, I feel vindicated in the idea of adding to them. Missed the 12 that was on offer, so the 18 or 24 it is. Also now seriously debating adding some RGB WS2812Bs in the doors etc rather than using the LIN setup, as I'd have to code those. Want ambient in the centre console around the glasses holder, more in the dash and footwells and the doors... might try to get a color sensor, or just replace the door strip LED. not sure yet. Why doesn't the upper glovebox have a light?

Kufatec has a cable set including the front and rear cameras for around €1000.