Luckypants

Agree with you VW's WLTP claims are pretty bold and always have been. My ID.4 would need to average 4.1 m/kWh to make its 315 WLTP figure. 3.8 is achievable but 4.1 is impossible real world.

Just found the post showing the parts I bought off here for the variable floor. Good photos of the bits. You should get all the parts in pic one and two in this post, including 6 bolts visible in the mount holes. HTH

What parts do you have? IIRC there are two side supports (left and right) and the boot floor itself. The sides are held in place by 3 bolts per side I think. Whoever sold you the floor should have provided all those things.

Skoda offer a 12 year perforation warranty for corrosion. Perhaps it is still just about covered? It depends when registered I suppose. It is worth taking it to a Skoda dealer and seeing if it is covered or perhaps some financial assistance getting it repaired as it is a well known problem AND warranty has only just expired? It doesn't hurt to ask.

Leave the settings in the car alone and allow to default to charge immediately and at full power, using the default 80% charge limit. (unless of course you need 100% for your journey). Set limits on charge rates and times on your chargers at work and home. This way the work Zappi can use excess solar if that is what you program. I'm assuming you have control over it. For any home charger, you will be free to choose one that suits your needs. If on a time of use tariff, a schedule can be set in the charger to charge at off-peak times. This way, you come home, plug in and the charge will commence off-peak.

Indeed @Graham Butcher. Heating a large cabin does have an effect in an EV. As mentioned earlier my ID.4 uses around 2kW to maintain cabin temp at just below freezing. The electronically identical ID.3 uses only 1.5kW due to a much smaller cabin.

I suspect Octopus didn't give a back hander or advertising so were 'forgotten'. Online comments section for the article only has two comments, both asking about IOG.

A lot do perform as well. Last winter there was a big traffic jam in a blizzard in the USA and folks were stuck for days. Some ICE cars needed refilling with fuel as they were running out after running their engines for many hours and the EV doom-sayers were going on how you couldn't top up a battery on the road in this manner. I think that furore is what prompted this video. Coincidentally, someone on the ID.3 Facebook group posted today about exactly this experience he faced yesterday, stuck in a traffic jam in Germany for 14 hours in -5 temps. He was worried as his journey plan had been to stop at the next planned charger with 20% battery (58kWh usable full battery on his car). The worry was would he have enough charge left to reach the charger as he 'only' had 20% margin. He turned the heat down to 16C and used the heated seats to keep body warm. There was himself and partner in the car, kids on back seat with a blanket. When the traffic cleared he was able to make it to the next available charger (not his planned stop) with 10% battery spare. Seems a non-issue to me. My ID.4 uses about 2.1kW to heat the car at -1 to -3 and run various systems. I could maybe get that to 1.9kW if I turned the car off and only used stationary heating and heated seats. With a maximum of 75kWh (full battery) I'd be fine for around 38 hours. Of course in the real world, I'd be arriving at the problem with less than that but you can see where I'm coming from. My car does not have a heat pump, cars so equipped will use less power to maintain temperature.

Much talked about on VW forums and FB groups. All early cars were checked under a recall for cell issues and most are fine. Some need cell replacements and this has led to the sealing paste shortage. There has also been a shortage of the closing bolts for the battery packs due to the only factory that made being in Ukraine. Switching production to another factory has been slow due to needing to source he right grade of steel and certify the bolts to VW standards. Both problems have left some cars waiting for service for many weeks.

Making the move to be the first putting in rapid chargers in it's car parks is a smart move as you say. Hopefully Tesco and Asda will follow - ASDA very likely under the EG group's banner of EVPoint. The Ludlow chargers with Sainsbury will be useful for travelling to south Wales for rugby, getting a swift top-up on the return journey. If not in a rush though, I'll probably still use Instavolt at Leominster OK Diner while getting dinner. The Harrogate store might struggle to get custom when the Tesla chargers down the road are 49p off peak.

I saw this yesterday. VW still talking the talk about a 'new UP EV' https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/volkswagen-id-1

I don't know if that's meant as a reminder to switch on your headlights or not, but that is exactly how our 66 plate works. I would never drive on sidelights, they are for parking in the dark only.

I have an ID.4 rather than an Enyaq but they are the same car underneath. I'm happy with mine and has lived up to expectations. As long as you have the latest software update installed if buying used. You will probably find an MEB based car thirsty after an E-Niro, over 4 miles per kWh is the exception rather than the rule.

Corrosion and seizing are problems on EV friction brakes due to getting a lot less use because regen takes care of most of braking. EV service specialists know that brakes need a 'lubrication service' as part of regular servicing to keep them tip-top whereas car manufacturers have not twigged on to differences between EV and ICE cars in how it operates. Brakes are one example, 12V battery charging problems is another. (VW / Skoda cured a 12V battery flat problem by switching to another battery chemistry and changing the charging algorithm. Software version 2.4 had the s/w update and a new battery as part of a recall that affected ID cars and Enyaq).

Because due to regen braking, the rear brakes are barely used. The front disks don't get a lot of use either, except when coming to rest. Switching to drums makes the rear brakes practically 'sealed for life' and need no interventions in normal servicing. Drum brakes are also better at being parking brakes too. Take a look at this video by Tesla Bjorn of an ID.3 drum brake being inspected after 2 years and 60k kms, shows it to be a good decision. By contrast, Tesla rear disk brakes have well known corrosion and seizing problems. https://youtu.be/r1XvoTIyWzE?feature=shared

You do not attach the bottle of gunk to the compressor. If you get a puncture and want to try to repair with the gunk, you add the gunk before inflation. The manual is in the infotainment system i.e. electronic. Press the Help tile to access the manual. There is also an online version of the manual on the Skoda UK website. (https://www.skoda.co.uk/apps/manuals/models) which you can access with your car's VIN EDIT Here is what the manual says about using the kit... Using the kit Sealing the tyre Unscrew the valve cap of the damaged tyre. Using the attachment, unscrew the valve insert and place it on a clean pad. Shake the sealant bottle. Screw the filler hose onto the bottle. Puncture the foil on the cap. Remove the stopper from the filler tube and fit it onto the tyre valve. Hold the bottle upside down and pour the entire contents into the tyre. Remove the filler hose from the valve. Screw on the valve insert. Inflate the tyre Fit the compressor hose onto the tyre valve. Secure the vehicle with the parking brake. Turn on the ignition. Insert the compressor plug into the 12-volt socket. Switch on the compressor. When the pressure reaches 2.0 – 2.5 bar, switch off the compressor. Observe the maximum compressor run time specified by the kit manufacturer. If the tyre pressure has not reached 2.0 – 2.5 bar, remove the hose from the valve. Move forward or backward approximately 10 m to allow the sealant to spill in the tyre. Refit the hose to the valve and repeat the inflation.

This exact problem has been noted in some VW ID3 and ID4 (same MEB platform) cars. A Google search for this in ID.4 cars might also help find supporting evidence. Unfortunately the issue is sometimes conflated with a problem with some OE Bridgestone tyres supplied on the cars from new that suffered uneven wear, but alignment is OK. The Bridgestone issue is addressed by tyre replacement under warranty. If you have the TPI number for the new wheel alignment specs, please share.

The "(must use credit card on Tesla app)" is the giveaway, they will track by app use. Also, this is how they will check that you are a new user. The card terminals on V4 SUC will not be free.

All you need now is to swap the Citigo for an electric one and you'll have the full set!

Two things that seem to be fairly common with MEB platform cars. First is the front drop links can loose their bushes and end up knocking. Changing the stabiliser may have been to address this possibility. The other issue has been with rear shock absorbers starting to knock due to an internal fault.

Well it being fixed is good news, as I have heard of this affecting other vehicles. I suffer from it in my ID.4. You can stop it happening by turning off sign recognition through your infotainment system, but you then have to set cruise speed yourself when limits change. The ACC function is not affected.

Out of interest, why does it need to be non-ISOFIX?

I did this in 2021. I set up the direct debit and was not charged for the card. The card will be charged for on first invoice after charging. As it turns out, I was not charged for the card on my first invoice, I have no idea why. My theory is first invoice was more than 12 months after setting it up, so had a free card renewal at some point. Getting the card is a good idea, if you never use it you most likely will not be charged for it.

Was not aware of that update.

Osram Nightbreaker H7's Very bright. 😎 I have them in my current motorcycle that takes 4xH7. (previous bike was H4) https://www.osram.com/ecat/NIGHT BREAKER 200-Halogen headlight lamps-Car lighting-Automotive/com/en/GPS01_3495633/ZMP_4062356/