Silver Bullet

If your drive around with a known coolant leak then your asking for trouble. Remember the engine is aluminium, if you cook it (allow it to overheat), then its game over , heat warping the cylinder head then needing a reskim etc. The water could be leaking into one of the cylinders (if its not a hose), check the oil filler hole at the top for "mayo" on the inside of it, if the water is mixiing with the engine oil you are risking a major sieze up. Or It could be coil pack wiring loom starting to fail. 1/ Fix water leak 2./Investigate, fix and clear error codes See below for fault codes http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Fault_Codes&pagefrom=16503%2FP0119#mw-pages http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17704/P1296/004758

More info on your error codes above:- http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php?title=Category:Fault_Codes&pagefrom=16503%2FP0119#mw-pages

Good replies , As said any of the above or more together, on tickover sometimes my radiator rattles a tad then stops. I notice you hav'nt stated when it happens ie: stationary or on the move or going over a bumpy surface. That would help narrow it down for whoever looks at it. They are great cars, had mine for 11 years and still brings a smile when driving.

You seem to have started firing off posts that are connected to this original one, (not a good idea as information could be lost if anyone does a search and only finds this one) Anyway, final suggestion from me. If you havnt done so already, pull off the TIP (can be done from above), you will see the turbo impeller, give it a flick with a clean finger, it should spin freely with minimum or zero end float. If it doesnt spin, a fin might have come off and jammed it or something has got in and is jamming it. I hope this isnt the case but its worth checking for peace of miind.

There are some real planks about out there. The charcoal canister ticking has been covered by earlier posts, the fact that it doesnt use any oil or water (same with mine) should say something about the internals. The start up rpm and idle rpm is spot on, I would just say go and listen to a few others then come back. Good examples of these cars are starting to become rare and the prices could go up, Ive seen a black one for sale on a 5 plate with 60k advertised for £3995 on pistonheads. If you can afford to, keep it, assuming its good everywhere else. Good Luck

Hi, your very welcome, I joined in 2007 and since then, on a steep learning curve (like yourself) regarding turbo engine ownership. . It would help you pin the problem down if you could get someone with VAG-Com to do a diagnostic scan for you and clear any stored errors, they can have a knock on effect and create more errors. Your above check suggestions are good ie wastgate sticking or a faulty boost pressure sensor, all are possible, If it was my car (you say you have no boost at all), I would first check every hose (from the turbo outlet through to the throttle body) ensuring all are secured and tight, On the drivers side at the back of the engine the stainless boost pipe turns at 90deg towards the ground, A rubber hose with a rubbish seal pushes into the end and is held in with a clip that locates on 2 barbs to hold it all together. This is covered by a flexable heatshield that clips together (2 pop buttons) This rubber hose can become disconnected, and you wouldnt know as the h/shield covers it all up. As a matter of course I replaced all the crap wire hose clips with jubilee ones. Soapy water is good enough to show any air escaping, if its that bad you should hear a hissing sound. Finally, why not start a check list of all the things you have looked at, it might help you track it down by simple elimination and help you to zero in on the problem area. Keep me in the loop as im curious as to whats causing your problem.

Hi, Im glad you have replaced those 2 pipes, to be honest I dont see reason to replace them again if they are made of silicone. Yes, I did the PCV delete, together with other improvements, the engine breathes better, pick up is still sharp, at 2.5k rpm the turbo kicks in and still throws you back in the seat.. Oh yes, few months ago I took the "puck" out it, was clean inside no oil residue on the walls. The link below is a bit of historical data for you to look at, it should make interesting reading. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/319645-what-do-i-need-breather-hoses-under-inlet-manifold/?tab=comments#comment-3832238 Good Luck

Hi again, going through all the parts I removed when fitting the OCC I found these 2 hoses I bought from AwesomeGTI years ago. One is the upper hose mentioned in the above reply and the second one (also prone to failure) goes from pcv to underside of inlet manifold, They were only on the car for a couple of months Both are silicone fluro lined (Forge ones are £74 for the pair) you can have them for £30 if not they will go back into my filing cabinet. Let me know. Peter

Hi, Regading the MAF high security screws you can buy a set of security bits from these people : http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/ (part Number :Ref 2267). Its 33 piece set on 1/4 hex drive. I have used them for years and they have never let me down, Silicone tubing size, sorry dont know, you will have to drag a pipe off and measure it, (try to get fluro lined silicone as the vapour will attack the silicone tube walls eventually. (I have bought all my tubing from Forge Motorsport, not the cheapest but good quality (there are other good suppliers out there now so its worth shopping around). How much do you need?, get some string measure all the lengths you want to replace and total up + a bit for ** ups. Regarding pipe clips, Personally I wouldnt use cable ties, nylon does not handle high temps well and absorbs moisture, degrades over time and can eventually let go. (When I fitted a Forge Turbo Inlet Pipe I used a nylon elbow to connect a smaller pipe thats near the MAF. It literally fell apart when I was checking all connections. Luckily ii was able to get ever piece out, If you look at the elbow near the PCV valve its made from glass filled polycarbonate. All plastic high temp areas on a car engine tend to be made of that material. Try to use stainless hose clamps, dont over tighten or you can crush the spigot, go round about a week after fitting and give the clips a slight tweak up as they bed in. NB:Ref: Kennedys pic, can you see the top hose ( Y shaped, one end comes from cam cover), they tend to split, squeeze it, you mightl find its very soft, consider replacing that one as well with fluro-lined pipe. Good Luck

I understand your reluctance to do any "mods" , but I guarantee you if you take one of the smaller hoses off and look in them they will be partially clogged with sludge. The standard hose bore diameter is about 6 mm, the blue fluro-lined silicone ones ive fitted for the OCC are 19mm bore. (fitted in Oct 2010, I bought the car in 2006). As you say with 150k on the clock maybe replace but give it a clean first and see if things improve, also it wouldnt do any harm in checking and cleaning all the other components. Good Luck

Yes, indeed they can be cleaned :- Remove N75, and using suitable carb cleaner aerosol with nozzle attached carefully spray into hose spigot, put finger over end and shake, allow liquid to drain away. Repeat for remaining spigots and allow to dry. I cleaned mine a month ago with nothing coming out. I have a Oil Catch Can fitted so really didnt expect to see any oil contamination, I was just curious to see if there was anything. If you fit a Oil Catch Can (plenty of how to's on here), it will vertually eliminate all oil residue (sludge) in the turbo charge pipes, components and crankcase breather piping, Another big plus about fitting one is you will get a cleaner combustion burn (not having to burn off all the oily vapour from the sump and cylinder head). Our engines run on a closed system, nothing vents to atmosphere.

This happened to me once, giving it the beans overtaking on a d/carriageway, "POP", warning light came on. All power went and had to slow down. The car wouldnt go above 50mph, got it up on my ramps, took the offending pipe off, got a small swiss file and filed the 2 barbs so they were nice and angled (giving a positive registration on the spring). Pushed it back in (spring in place), heard a nice loud click, all good

Hi Paul, The scissor jack that comes with the car is a load of dangerious crap, its common knowledge in the FFRR forum, most people get a Merc sprinter van bottle jack, but you seem to have sussed it. Glad you were not hurt when it collapsed, also if you ever put it in off-road height, dont depend on the air suspension to stay put. I always put stands underneath when i crawl under it. Regarding the wheels I tend to agree with you, there are a number of LR styles that will fit your FF, ie my ones, they are 20" for supercharged 4.2's. Cant remember your cars age, if you did change styles the wheel nuts are different see below:- Range Rover 4.2 litre Supercharged (as per my picture) Alloy Road Wheel….RRC502690XXX (Made by Cromodora S. P. A, Italy) (8 1/2J X 20 EH2 – 58) Max Load 925Kg Colour…Silver Sparkle. Colour code: MNH (clear lacquer top coat) Tyres…255/50 R20 109Y XL Pirelli Scorpion Zero (Tread depth when new 8mm) Early Range Rover L322 ( 2003 to 2005 ) wheels have a wheel nut hole diameter of approximately 20mm Late Range Rover L322 ( 2006 - 2012 ) wheels have a wheel nut hole diameter of approximately 23mm The early nuts ( 2003 to 2005 ) had square ends, ( 2006 - 2012 ) the wheel nuts had chamfered ends. M14-1.5mm Thread 22mm Hex head ( wheel brace size)

Nice solid looking car Paul

Very interesting, never seen this before. Regarding reversing sensors, i recently bought a kit off fleabay (have yet to fit) for about only £20 and this gets its power from tapping into the reversing lights supply. Simples

My on board 'assistant' keeps telling me I have a number plate bulb out..... I made the mistake of getting high intensity LED reversing light bubs, fitted and went behind for a look, much brighter, got in the car, message: "check reversing bulbs". Saying that tho' not all owners have experienced error messages when doing that upgrade. Nice to see more shiny "fattys", mine needs a wash now. I still use my Vrs but only at weekends, its 12 years old now, on a standard map, still surprises me how fast it is, always raises a smile.

Hi very nice looking car, a great choice of car. I bought mine a couple of years ago, (had a RRclassic for 20 years till it eventually recycled itself). Try this website: www.FullfatRR.com which I joined. Its for like minded owners, the guys are very helpful. I also would suggest looking into a GAP diagnostic tool, its not cheap (approx £250-300) but will save you loads in the long run. You can do scans / clear error codes, turn stuff off etc I recently turned off my TPMS it kept telling me to check tyre pressures and they were all ok including the spare. My Fatty

There you go, recharge includes a lubricant, so slighty puzzled.

Welcome to the Vrs club Sounds like you have found a good one at a very good price. NB: You have pm

Bought mine in 2006, still going strong. One of the most reliable cars i've ever bought. Regular oil / filter changes, and servicing, yes you can get a few niggles, central locking etc but nothing that cant be fixed. The bottom line is..... if you look after it it will look after you.

Have you tried their website and buy direct ? https://www.zf.com/unitedkingdom/en_gb/lemfoerder/homepage_lemfoerder/Homepage.html

Hi, Just checked on ETKA, the standard glass fitted can be either clear or green tint. Mine had green tints all round from new. If you go to this website :- https://vindecoderz.com and put your vin number in, (can be seen in the small window cutout on your windscreen, passenger side), it will tell you the build spec' for your car.

x

Hi, Just checked my records, it was fitted on 5th November 2007, sadly my little grey cells dont go back that far so cant remember any marking. Its a sort of pea green colour and replaced a black body one that threw a error code 1 year into ownership. I always try to go OEM for parts like that, not the cheapest, but as you can see usually the most reliable (9 years +). The green sensor part number was at that time:- 059919501A (4 pin) prob' has been revised by now tho. Peter

Kentphil1 is correct, the 'o' ring has a much larger cross section than a so called std one. The part number is:- N 903-168-02 Round Seal (19,6x3,65)