anewman

I use the Gulf Tec semi-synthetic stuff sold in Home Bargains for £9.99 a 4l can. It's this stuff http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx Obviously I don't have an oil analysis lab or a degree in chemistry etc, so can't guarantee what's in there. But Opie Oils normally know their stuff and sell quality oils, so I suspect they're convinced enough by the product. Also my car hasn't complained, but likewise probably wouldn't complain if you stuck the cheapest possible 20w50 supermarket stuff in there and changed it often enough - not that I would advocate doing so, lol.

Why not just get creative with the A pillar?

I would put more weight on apparent condition and care given (a service history helps here), than what the clock says. After all, it takes 5 minutes (if that) to plug a computer in and change the mileage on the dash to what you like. I would say it works in your benefit too. If people are put off by high mileage and this brings the price down, then all the better for your bank balance. On high mileage examples, by high mileage I'm guessing 100k plus, just watch out for a rattling/clattering noise on the front left of the engine as you face it, where the alternator is. This is where the timing chain is located. It's not a big issue but is something that would ideally need replacing. The engine shaking and rocking back and forth on the mounts while running at idle is a bit disconcerting, but is normal for this engine. Just paid £200 for my insurance for the year on mine, cheapest it's ever been.

Mine's quite low mileage, so can't give you any reassurance there. Most of the problems you'll find out about with a good read of this forum. Thermostats tend to break internally (cost about £45 from a dealer). Headgasket failure is not unknown, either because of an inadequate gasket fitted to the earliest models, or bolts not torques up enough during manufacture. The cars to look at are the Favorit and Felicia 1.3. These previous Skoda models have pretty much the same engine. Some of these have reached 150k miles with no issues. With high mileage, the problem you will be most likely to have is the timing chain will have stretched. If you're going to drive long distances and do quite a lot of miles, I would suggest the 1.9 sdi may be a better choice for your needs.

Thanks, that's an impressive job. I was too afraid to try fit a generic kit and spent over £120 on the Skoda supplied one. See http://www.briskoda....t-deux/ Motors look exactly the same as the generic kit ones, although they come with fixings tailored to the car, and the rubber bellows for the rear doors. I think you can get those as a separate part, and that might be worth doing if you're using a kit like this one. Best place to look for part number is vagcat.com but that site is up and down like a yo yo. When I installed an alarm to control the central locking, I put the aerial on the back of the rear light cluster. My reasoning was this had less metal around it, plus the cable was long enough and instructions said not to bunch the cable up. I'm half-way through installing a remote boot release to a classic model with a cheapie ebay motor. Fitted the motor, just need some time to get around to actually pull the dash off and wire it in properly. BTW it's easy to install a fuse in the OE fuse holder with just a repair wire. The positive supply is behind a cover just up near the steering column. Can try fish out the part number.

Coolant often leaves tell-tale marks. Another method, if the system is filled with the correct pink/purple stuff, is to use a UV light, as coolant fluoresces. Common radiator leak spots include the radiator fan switch (a washer was not fitted at manufacture, but fitting one a Skoda dealer can sell, or ptfe tape, usually sorts it.) Another point is the radiators tend to rust at the bottom corners. Are you definitely losing coolant? I.e. level falling? I suppose a burning clutch could be like the type of smell you describe. Usually due to poor clutch control.

As Ed Miliband takes his in to get the brakes done.

Kwikfit must have changed the pads, lol.

Higher MPG on readout on dash maybe. In practice, doubt it.

I believe those stereos actually do turn on with the ignition off, but should turn off when the key is removed.

Yep they cost next to nothing from dealers. What tends to happen when the jets get blocked, is a plastic insert in the jet pops out. Then screenwash tends to pour out onto your windscreen rather than in a fan. Once managed to recover the plastic insert as it stuck to the windscreen. Pushed it back in the jet, it clipped in place, and hasn't come out again.

Should anyone knowingly be driving around with failed bulbs at all? Never mind going to get an MOT done with them gone! One of the easiest things you can check and replace yourself.

Nearly £200 - for just one track rod end?! Not including wheel alignment?! Shocking!

There's a rubber seal rim around the cap. IMO it shouldn't offer too much resistance when replacing or removing, but shouldn't be so loose it rattles on the rocker cover with the engine running either. I am not certain if the seal or cap can be replaced individually. A Favorit or 1.3 Felicia cap is an exact fit though. Sent from my Blade using Tapatalk 2

The Favorit and Felicia use that exact oil cap. It probably provides a better seal than the engine cover one to be honest. There are definitely no issues using that cap unless your engine has a serious fault which causes it to blow off, and would need repair anyway. Sent from my Blade using Tapatalk 2

I'd buy the size they're meant to be, and keep same size tyres on same axle.

If it's the MPI one, once off stick it in the bin and use the spare oil cap clipped in underneath the cover Note there are two different 1.4s. One is badged mpi which is 8v. The other is badged 16v. 8v is a Skoda-designed engine, the 16v is a VW-desiged engine.

Thermostat failure is not unknown on the 8v/mpi. They break up internally, and this could explain the not getting up to temperature. Apparently a common leak point on all models is the fan switch on the radiator. This is on the passenger side at the back of the radiator. Try a torch to see if that helps see the level. If your warning beep is working satisfactorily, then you could rely on that to indicate when a top up is needed. Such significant loss indicates a problem that needs attention though. The points to check are any that you have disturbed when changing the coolant. Ensure the hose clips are seated properly. Also make sure you use the original type supplied with the car (IMO). Haynes recommends replacing the OE ones with the worm-drive type, but I found these just tore through the hoses, and rarely made an adequate seal. The OE ones are easy enough to work with using molegrips anyway. I'm currently working through a niggly issue with my cooling system. It does not get up to temperature when driven on a morning on drive to work, and coolant appears to have leaked slightly (is visible on the bonnet underside, near thermostat). On drive back it's perfectly fine and warms up like normal, and no sign of further leak. Ordered a UV torch off ebay with the hope it will reveal the leak, as OAT coolant (the red/pink/purple stuff) is meant to fluoresce under UV light.

How long is everyone's thermostat lasting? I'm aware it's a common issue, but I suspect mine has packed in again. I tried one of the "V2" thermostats a while back, which originate from CZ, and were sold by Jorily when in existence but found the circlip had rusted after use, and some sort of sealant was applied between housing and thermostat. If only a Favorit cast aluminium one would fit... Thanks for your "improvements" VW Sent from my Blade using Tapatalk 2

I would personally go for a 096 if it fits in your battery box. Need to grab the dimensions for a 096, compare with what you already have, and see if it will squeeze in your battery box. Unnecessary expense? Well maybe on a 1.2htp with no mods such as in car audio, but at least you'll know you have more ah and cca in there than you'll ever need. You'll be able to crank your engine and the radio won't turn off Plus you can probably leave your parking lights on all night without a worry (well other than your neighbours banging on the door to let you know you've left them on). Euro car parts battery chooser does not appear to recommend the size originally fitted.

If pedal sinks to floor, brake fluid leak likely. Hint: this is bad. Sent from my GT-P5110 using Tapatalk HD

Looks like it's rusting through some sirt of primer? Or is it reallly bare metal? Sent from my GT-P5110 using Tapatalk HD

Had a similar incident in a Tesco car park a while back. Luckily only my handbrake was on lightly and nothing was parked behind me. Think the Ford Focus came off worse - similarly I'd just waxed mine, and I suspect that helped protect the paint a little. All the idiot obviously wanted to do was get out of having to open his wallet or give his details. I've seen some people who appear to think purposefully and intentionally driving into other people's bumpers is a perfectly acceptable way to park etc. Time to buy a compressor perhaps?! http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-Automotive-RAC630-Automatic-Compressor/dp/B002Q560WE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1357410480&sr=1-1

The ones that *REALLY* get me are those who seem to think there's some law you don't put any lights on whatsoever before some fixed time, possibly 6pm, especially at this time of year when it's dark then and the street lights are on. There did use to be a system called dim-dip, whereby dipped beams came on dim with sidelights no matter what - now that was technology intended for people without the brains to put the dipped beam on in addition to sidelights. But in addition to your comment, stats show that less accidents happen with DRLs, hence their justification. Not that dissimilar from making seatbelts a legal requirement. Alongside the fact that LEDs use little power while being bright, which means less impact on the atmosphere as they need less energy to power than headlights.

Seems to be a couple with similar names I've had my eyes on http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/8732.html http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/2779.html