VRsdgm

According to the 7zap site the original is Hitachi. I’ve been looking at these recently for the CCZA engine in a TSi VRS and the best price I can find is on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-Genuine-Audi-VW-Seat-Skoda-High-Pressure-Fuel-Pump-06J127025L/123364802179 I’ve bought twice from this seller before, 4 injectors and a MAF sensor, and all has been good.

You are right.

Glovebox then.

Skoffski is right, thieves find any possible stash you can think of. Humans nearly always hide things in the same type of places and, like it or not, thieves have the same thought processes as everyone else. You’ll need to go to extreme lengths to create a decent stash and you’ll end up with something that’s too much of a pain to use regularly.

I had to use a Dremel attachment to cut the nuts away on mine, access is tight and it was a pain of a job to do.

Right front seat wiring connector cover trim from searching on the part number. Under the seat I would guess.

It depends on what you want from the car and how much you want to spend. We’re all guessing as to your intentions OP, do you want to keep it standard ride height, lower it, stiffen it up etc. Mine gets chucked about the potholed city streets most of the time so I put on the Bilstein B3 and B4 combination which is a more compliant set up than the other suggestions. It also keeps the ride height the same. If you want to lower it and improve the handling then I’d concur with the Blistein B12 kit.

In fact Demon Tweeks had the best prices last year for the B4s.

I replaced mine with Bilstein B4 and have found them excellent, they transformed my car but the original Sachs shocks were completely shot when they came off. They are OEM replacements so the heights remains the same with the B4s. They’re reasonably priced at Larkspeed.

Look forward to your results, I’ve got a few other bits and pieces to sort before I get round to the air con.

Mine does exactly the same thing. I came to the same conclusion as you, that a regas might sort it, but haven’t got around to doing it yet.

If it’s of any assistance, the OEM bump stop part numbers for mine are: Front - 1K0412303F Rear - 3C0511359F I re used the dust covers after cleaning them up so can’t help there.

Try this YouTube video for replacing the throttle body, awkward to access the bolts and a mixture of patience and force needed to get the hose back on but perfectly achievable.

Ive got a 2009 TSI but assuming the fuel cap is the same, I’ve just bought a replacement cap from TPS, part number is 1K0201550AF. The fuel cap it replaced had the part number 1J0201553AD.

That’s the way my VRS was when I bought it, once new shocks replaced the original items the problem was solved. In my case the OEM shocks were in a really poor condition. I used Bilstein B4 as like for like replacements and they’re reasonably priced. Might not be your issue but but worth considering if you’re still on the original Sachs shocks.

They’re stretch bolts and recommended to be replaced, whether you do or not is up to yourself. I chose to replace them and faced with the amount of corrosion in the female spline section of the bolts, it was the way to go for me. I’ve no doubt re used bolts will do the job but they’re inexpensive to replace.

Not a chance for an impact gun.

I did it on axle stands on my drive, bugger of a job but you find a way to get enough leverage on them eventually. Plenty of Plusgas also required.

These are the spline bits I used, you need the shorter bits rather than long ones, or at least I did. It’s too tight to get access on two of the bolts with the longer bits. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-3799-Spline-Bit-30mm/dp/B0038717EK

Get the correct spline bit, you’ll round them off with a torx bit for sure. Even with the spline bit you have to tap it in firmly to get proper purchase due to corrosion. The carrier bolts should be replaced too, part number N90948802. On the VRS you have to remove the carrier to change the discs, it’s not even a close call to get the discs off with them still on.

Sounds like mine too, don’t think you’ve got an issue.

I wasn’t sure either but thought for about the £80 it cost, it was worth a go. Turned out it worked, the PCV valve has undergone several revisions, can’t hurt to put the latest one in. That’s the way I think anyway.

I did the dipstick test as well, made no difference in idle to mine either and yet it appears the PCV was the fault.

Maybe try replacing the PCV valve with the up to date iteration, I tried it after replacing plugs and coils to fix an intermittent problem with the car running on three cylinders without success. Despite the existing PCV valve showing no visible signs of damage or incorrect operation, replacing it with the latest version solved the issue and it has done 6000 miles since without issue. Part number I used was 06H103495AJ.

Did the same job a few months ago and feel your pain, didn’t have the sub frame out though. The corrosion on the nuts/bolts was pretty severe on my 09 car and had to use an angle grinder, Dremmel and drill for the removal of some. Surprisingly the front wishbone bolts on mine came off with little difficulty using the torque wrench. Three out of the six front top mount nuts spun on mine, horrible job to cut them off from within the wheel arch but got there in the end. They had obviously been over torqued at some point.