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Firstly, here is the schedule for proper servicing. The Haldex (4x4 mech) should be serviced every 30K miles or every 3 years, whichever comes first. There's also a filter associated with the Haldex that often doesn't get changed because it's a pain to change and VAG say it doesn't need changing. I'd prefer it was changed, but I guess it's a matter of personal preference and Skoda techs might be reluctant to change it or try and charge a fortune to change it. Another thing to watch out for is the silica bag in the coolant reservoir . (For long life coolant) They can split, and if they do, it's a big bill to get the silica crystals out of your waterworks. So firstly, check you can get heat to both sides of the passenger compartment when you test drive the car. Then later, maybe think about whipping the silica bag out of the reservoir and replacing the G13 coolant with G12evo. (Don't panic if this all sounds like a big deal, it's more a precautionary thing than a big panic, but it's definitely worth checking to see if you have heat to both sides of the passenger compartment.) Good luck with your new car!

This is a ridiculous situation to be caught in, and it is hardly the fault of the @VRS245Grey, who I assume thought he was taking a belt-and-braces approach to warranty cover, only to find that instead of stacking warranties, the two warranties actually undermine each other. It's absolutely disgraceful behaviour. If I go into a shop, I don't expect to be told "We don't accept cash if you have a credit card in your wallet.". Having two warranties should give a consumer choice, in no way should it be allowed to be used as an excuse for a warranty company to weasel out of their obligation. I understand the complexities, confusion and potential fraud that might arise if someone makes multiple warranty claims for a fault. However mitigation against fraud should not render warranties ineffectual. I wonder how far this weaselly legal rot has spread? If you join the AA and RAC, might you phone the RAC up only to be told that membership of the AA invalidates your RAC cover? I think @Gazis on the money with his reference to talking to trading standards. As an additional suggestion, if you have legal cover on your car insurance (or home insurance), it might be worth checking if you can apply some legal leverage in your favour on this issue.

Hello and welcome! 👋 Do look into making sure the Haldex has been correctly serviced before you hand over any money. 👍

Hello there! 👋 The great thing about looking after your car is that you're the one to benefit from it. Congrats on racking up 100K in your Mk1.

As @unclerichysaid, probably best not to pay cash. Most legit businesses now find it more of a nuisance than an incentive. It's worth telling a couple of dealers what you're after and to let you know when they have a car that meets your needs coming in. Some dealers are rubbish, but some will keep informing you of new stock.

Hello yourself and welcome!

Is the contamination visible at all? The Brillo pad sound test was horrific. I'm sure you're being careful, but it was a bit like watching someone juggling chainsaws. 😄

Yeah, it's insane. I regret letting my Mondeo go so cheap (at SWMBO's insistence), but my comfort is I "saved" £1000's off the Octavia I replaced my Mondeo with.

Why not buy a litre of two from the dealer?

Hello and welcome!

Hello and welcome, Malky!

Hello folks! Is there a simple, low-risk way to remove the rubber door seals and replace them? Mine seem to attract a lot of crud under them, and I've removed them once, but it was a bit of a faff. I tried popping the clips out of the door, but found the rubber seal came off the clip pretty easily while trying to remove the clip, and so I removed the rest of them carefully in the same manner, and replaced them that way too. But it was a bit unsatisfactory and if I do it too often, I can see the rubber hole where the clip fits getting damaged. That said, it's less risk than having one of the brittle-seeming clips failt. Does anyone know what the "correct" way to remove/replace rubber trim is? Is there a hack to make life a bit easier doing it?

Hello and welcome @smilow!

Hello and welcome, Mats!

I've just changed tyres from Bridgestone Turanza 001 to Goodyear Asymmetric 6, and I've noticed a reduction in fuel economy. The tyres grip very well indeed, but the trade-off is increased rolling resistance, even at the 2.6 bar "eco" pressure.

I have heard nothing about this before, far less it being a fairly common problem. 😮 Can you spare the time to explain what causes the physical damage please, @Crasher

Love it! 😄

Hello! 😊 I can't imagine buying (or selling) a high-value car privately, so I can't comment on the numbers of them about. As awful as some car dealers are, they (sometimes) can at least be held to account.

Please excuse the somewhat harsh rewording of your problem, but I think this sums it up: "I don't really use my car and make little effort to care for it. However a bloke I paid to clean my car told me I have a problem with my wheel lacquer, and now I'm unhappy." Personally I think you should I'd shrug it off, because it seems to me the bloke who washed your car has more of a problem with your wheel lacquer issue than you do.

Trim level is good, IMO. If you can find one with heated seats & windscreen, that would be even better. Can't comment on the engine too much other than to advise to look for the car driving smoothly at very low (car-park) speeds without kangarooing. I like young, high-mileage cars, so if the condition is good and the servicing has been done properly, I'm not sure 80k miles would discourage me if the price was right. Don't let the graph of sale prices fool you, most similar vehicles will have fewer miles and thus be worth more. I think there's some room for haggling on their asking price, if you want the car. Good luck!

Have you done a check for outstanding finance, accident damage, stolen/recovered etc? I endorse the perspective that @tootgave you on assuming nothing, however I would flip that, and assume the worst unless you have proof to the contrary. So... Assume no service history until you have documented proof of the service history. Assume it's been stolen, thrashed and then recovered/repaired unless you have a report saying it has not. Assume it's been written-off and rebuilt, unless you have a report confirming it hasn't been. Assume anything that could go wrong, will go wrong and get yourself an appropriate warranty to cover that failure unless you're happy to pay for the repair yourself. I hope this doesn't come across as negative doom-mongering, I'm just trying to re-frame things to give you a different perspective. Also, while not the same vehicle, this post is probably worth a read. Good luck! 🤞

Reading your post, it sounds like that your car had been running perfectly well, then suddenly for no reason at all, a pressure sensor failed and catastrophically damaged your DPF, to the extent it is physically broken internally. Is that a reasonable summary of your post?

Feeling better about grubbing around under the back of my car a couple of weeks ago Kurusting anything on the rear subframe that looked a bit rusty.

Hello! If you're in doubt, can I suggest you re-frame the issue. So now the car has 90K miles. How many miles do you intend to put on the car? How long do you intend to keep it? If you do a low annual mileage, and intend to run the car into the ground, then I see no reason for the mileage to discourage you. If you do a lot of annual miles and intend to sell the car in a few years, maybe that high mileage will either cause some serious depreciation or make the car difficult to sell. (You're already hesitant about it at 90K miles.) Cars wear out, and cars get old. Personally, I prefer a young, high-mileage car to an old, low-mileage car, but I keep my cars for many years and don't do many miles. Plan ahead and make your decision based on what your ownership use is likely to be. EDIT: No idea what Car Giant is like as a vendor, but as a rule, expect pretty much next to no support after you've parted with your cash. Good luck!

A combination of the prospect of punishment if you fail to toe the line, and reward if you do toe the line. I haven't given that particular suggestion any thought, so your feeling is incorrect. You provided no source for your "feeling" so it's a bit rich to ask for a source for an opinion that I stated with an explanation for the opinion provided in same sentence. I had a look at that. Who's getting cancelled in that example? Please don't strawman me. This is what I said. The fact is people HAVE lost access to their bank accounts if they failed to toe a particular line. Have I got a specific example of a climate scientist who lost access to his bank account? No. If that's a win for you, revel in it. However here's an example of scientific defenestration. https://www.theguardian.com/world/2019/jan/13/james-watson-scientist-honors-stripped-reprehensible-race-comments Here's another, less significant one. https://www.independent.co.uk/news/science/richard-dawkins-trans-humanist-aha-b1835017.html You don't think you understand that there are some poor people in the UK who have to run a car but cannot afford to change their existing car for a replacement ULEZ car, which may or may not be a series of bills. You can say "Look at this one! It's only £1000!" and they couldn't afford it. I don't think you realise that there are some ordinary, decent people living good lives who just don't have the cash for a replacement car. @wyx087 I'm not virtue signalling here, I'm just telling you you don't seem to know any poor people. I offered to sell my old Mondeo to a friend for £500. They asked if they could pay me in instalments. I declined as I had another friend who had the cash, but "I get the feeling" the thought that there are people in the UK in 2023 who would need to pay a £500 bill in instalments is beyond your understanding. That's on you, not me. Please cite the two "facts" I made claims about. What are you referring to with this statement?