imart143

thanks, this did good job 3 times, inflate to 2 bar and than drive few miles to gas station and top it up to 2.5bar or similar. i hope i would not need it much, wish it wont be never. look at this mie, its same chinese product, even stand is same.. first is mine, second is newer version. i mean for 15€ its good.. mine have aluminium cilinded and piston

thats easy job now. turn engine to 4th cilinder valve sty open, that means that 1-2-3 are closed. spray little brake cleaner to see it valve seals properly. if yes, take bottle of carburetter cleaner add spray in ports 1-2-3 to the top. wait 12 hours, i left it to morning, you will se how easy dirt will come off, isung just plastic brushes and picks. i uset tools and stuff like that on pictures. cut a piece of this polimer mesh for cleaning copper pipes and fix it to some pick or little tweezers, with plastic zip ties, that i have not use strengh on fingers and detailed brush everything. when liquid become black and thick, i pull it out with come cotton cloth, use compressed air too and see where depozits are left, then concentrate on them. same stuff carb cleaner and brushing. all of that will cost you 30€, i wont never pay 700€ how much some garage ask me to, or skoda service i think 1000€. insane. look before and after..

I did it manual way and cost me 30€ Can of car uretter cleaner spray, soak cyl. 1, 2 and 3, let valves complete flow in it. Next day, that soot came off very rasy, with plastic tools and some picks. If you have knowledge to pull out intake mainfold, you will easy finish it.

I got a tire repair kit with those latex strips. I once patched a screw hole for a friend, so I have the original narrow wheel in my car, that repair kit, and a compressor that plugs into the 12V socket in the cabin. Should I get rid of the spare tire? It's small so it doesn't take up much space.

i also have knocking on right side, 2 months ago and its worstening. in beginning it was just with passenger on right seat (left hand drive car). now only with me, driver, only on bumpy road. on high way i drived car to the floor, about 190 kms on gps and nothing, but normal city driving, sure bad roads and with bumps when the car sways left - right, up - down it knocks quite a lot, I remove the wheels, I don't see any problem. also if the car is empty, I rock it and shake the wheels and I don't see any defects. although the shock absorbers are very soft, they fail easily and the front end of the car bounces like it's 20 years old, I can't believe after only 90,000 kms and 5 years that the shock absorbers are so bad. i can see minor signs of oil, above the piston, but minor. almost nothing. maybe there's gas in the shock absorbers and it's leaking? I looked at new ones, there are various ones that fit, factory numbers 5Q3413031 A, B, D, E, F, G, H, J, K, AN, GG, etc. of course they all match the vin number. what's the difference, the dimensions are the same. they also fit the seat ateca. so otherwise the shock absorbers, mounts and shock absorber bearings fall apart on the karoq? should I replace everything then?

I had 2012 yeti 4x4. Where is intake for air that go to cabin? I didnt change it myself then but on karoq is under wipers. I thimk i didt see that on yeti?

i had same issue, changed sparkplugs and coils waste money, looked to intake ports with endoscopic camers, buildup was huge, 1.5 tsi, only 80000 kms. but before me it was fleet vehicle, oil changes on 30000 kms, etc. i cleaned it myself and now is like new.

tnx for details, in vag services they use vag batteries according to part number and serial number or code is written in ecu, and that is enough. i buyed 5 yo car with original battery and start stop not worked at all, it was half mpty, i charge it and start stop worked few days, than not again. so i decided to buy a new on in battery store, change values to new battery, same type but 60Ah, original was 59Ah, CCa was same. original battery was Varta-VAG.

i buy a new one and after 5 years its near eol, because of many cold starts and stop go driving. i am buying oftenly Exide, and when i think its done i give it for gift to someone who have no money for new EFB+ battery. i charge battery on external charger every 6 months. i dont buy VAG batteries. too expensive. exide efb for my car is 130€ in my country.. AGM is 160€. takling about 60 Ah maybe i put AGM next time. what do you think. ofc decoding in odbeleven. or this, 62 Ah thats with new stickers

i buy new battery every 5 years or less, nevermind of battery state..

it is gearbox with dry clutch, no debris of clutch ever floating in oil. so in that box is goin oil like in manual geearbox, 75w80. changing intervals are like on manual gearbox. i changed mine after 5 yrs and 80000 kms, but its not necessary. you can change it when timing belt set changes. 150000 kms? they say never. but thats is not theirs car but yours. heres good video. https://photos.app.goo.gl/paavvN3e8tHPjNaB7

i didnt take a shot after, but i cut it here, 2 cm deep grove and absorber lays inside..

i crop little of sponge out..

i also fitted on my karoq, a year ago, little different size and position but works perfectly.. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002709793432.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.151.685d1802hRlX1j

i use VPN and it blocks android auto. trying to whitelist on VPN but without sucess.. only turning off VPN makes it work good. VPN is a Adguard, payed ofc. Ad Blocker for Android by AdGuar...Ad Blocker for Android by AdGuard for rooted and unrooted...AdGuard is a unique adblock tool that blocks ads in apps and browsers, protects your privacy, and helps manage your apps.

many of tthese intervals are too long. iming belt depends of driving. if car was urban driving, should be changet sooner, in its highway diving, manual is ok, 180000 kms, and they said 10-13 years. i fill fix it in 8-9 years max. next air filter, 6 years and 90000 kms it will be clogged like a brick. dont worry about about 120000 km, then inspect and change other belt, look your driving style.

it is VR6? best vw gasoline engine ever..

i am using cheaper variant of oil, 504.00-507.00 Shell Helix Ultra AV-L Pureplus 0w30, change at 10000 kms/ interval 10 months maximally. https://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/shell-helix-ultra/shell-helix-ultra-professional-av-l-0w-30.html

you have something here https://github.com/olli991/mib-std2-pq-zr-toolbox/issues/93

i had constant missfiter on all cilinders, and intake ports buildup on 4 cilinder 1.5 tsi, cleaned all with home made tools, and never issued after that. 6 months.. previous i changed coils and sparkplugs, but sparkplugs were like new. waiste of money 120€ for nothing. with 20€ i cleaned ports and valves.

if you have driving modes, put it in sport mode to rise revolutions. but it is not about revs too much but instead heat. rise heat and burn particles, like in diesel.. also aditives for gpf are same as for dpf. liqui mily have dpf/gpf ceaner, unscrew upper lambda sonda and put hole bottle of it, return lambda and proceed according to manual.. https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/press/press-releases/efficiently-clean-diesel-and-gasoline-particulate-filters.html?srsltid=AfmBOopDDIDC24eUt6VpIAbJB-ckYrspGURDG6K7OtbPi0OqtI0ICT0W

vag cars made from 1. july 2015. to 31. june 2016. are 2016 models. not from January to December. so his car is 2016.

I have on karoq 2019 Bolero. Updated software to 0480 but obdeleven says me its outdated. I cant find newer.

Some gasoline additive?

it is about the right front side of the karoq, it has 85000 km but all in a city where the streets are full of potholes and barriers. when I start in the morning, it knocks for the first 300 meters and then it quiets down. I suspect that the shock absorber is bad, there is a lack of oil or similar and then it knocks until the oil circulates through the shock absorber and the knocking stops. it's a little greasy on the piston and under the piston, not too much, once a month I wipe it with cloths. what do you think, should I replace the shock absorbers?