VWD

Crime prevention advice is not to lock it . I've even heard of some crime prevention folks saying it's even better to remove content of glove box and leave it open overnight. But along with the secret knobs etc, a lot of T leafs don't know about the "hidden" tray inside the glove compartment. Difficult to spot if you don't know it's there but handy for storing documents erc.

1.4tdi will take an 096. I suspect the096 is an upgrade as most places quote 027 and GSF are doing a deal on Yuassa batteries. I found 096 was a bit tight with the sleeve ,so I took it out at last change . Last one lasted circa 9 years and my trips are short stop start trips .

Other firms are available. I'd suggest a google on fabia brake light switch. From my reading it seems that there are two contacts on the switch. One send a signal to the brake lights that the brake is pressed, the other is a check on the switch.( possibly both signals are compared in the ECU ??) With switch out, and non operated, one pair of contacts shouls read O/C on a meter whereas the other pair should read S/C. And with the switch operated, the reverse. In my case the switch had stopped working. If the dash on yours is same as on mine, getting to switch is a bit of a faff as it needs a partial dash strip down on the driver side. Not difficult for a young healthy 30 year old, but a bit more dificult for a geriatric 75 year old .

I'd suggest that somewhere in the car electronics there is a voltage check on the alternator output where the relay switches the dash light. Reminds me of a problem I had with an ancient car in my younger years where the switching circuit had failed and the charge light said "no chargee" but the battery was getting 14+volts with all electrics on at idle. Cure was a bit of DIY electronics, but thats not possible these days. it's possible that the voltage is "just" below the shut off limits for the light and once the threshold has been crossed, the relay stays energised.

JR- my local machine shop tells me that VAG carriers are his best quick money job. But I've vnoticed that on 05 models the allen bolt has been replaced with a standard nut. Mine had a "35 point check, and I suspect pad change" at a well known place prior to sale. 75k miles later and no problems .

Last time I had this problem, SIL took an angle grinder to the screws and made a nice slot. Then aply a small cold chissel to the slot with maximum aggression. I've replaced my drum screws with allen bolts with a locknut ( something I had handy) . You fit the bolts and lock the locknut. Makes getting them off a lot easier. No problem with the excess sticking out, it sits in the wheel . if the condition of everything else is as the screws, then perhaps it might be worth getting a retaining kit for the shoes. Common problem with the shoes is the hinge rivit where the shoes meet binding. I've also found on mine that the handbrake cable corrodes on the rear axle where it's clipped. On mine there was only a small rust patch, but the cable was sticking. i found I had to change both cables as any OEM ones will be a different length( to origonal) and cause adjustment problems.

I'd suggest before looking at power increase you look at uprating the braking system. I notice that the MK2 Fabia has discs al round. Possibly not an option on a MK1, but perhaps an upgrade to the VRS discs and pads?+

Someone did offer a solution to those who'd prefer to wait till summer and change seal /dry out car in warmer weather. it involves duck tape on the door rubber seal at the bottom of the door. This stops water draining out of door and finding it's way into rear of car.

Somewhere over the years, I've read on here that most ,if not all Fabias were on fixed 10k/12months fixed service. Admittedly I've never paid any notice of the two variations of the service reminder as I do mine circa 10k or inside the 12 month limit and just reset the warning.

As said. MK1 Fabia replace front spring + top mount.

Matt- do not forget the IMO car wash. £10 washes for £5 once a month =£60 per year. I don't like the food places offered, but my GS loves the cinemas.

Thanks to a not so nice person I've had to replace my passenger side headlight. And to match on a nice-looking car ( I've replaced the driver side.) Not too bad, as If I'd claimed on insurance I'd have paid a lot more. But I've now got a mashed up passenger side head unit. The supporting arms are broken ,but the glass is reasonable and apart from a repair to the dip beam plug, all else is ok. Both lenses pass the MOT light output. Then there's the driver side. Again, the dip plug has been replaced.

Be nice. Till then I'm one of those who think that ( as per Nationwide ad), that if they can't match the prices paid to new customers, then it's time to be a new customer. My problem is that my AA COVER IS MY xmas box from my daughter. Every year I've had lower prices on my car insurance, even though at my age it shouls be rising.

aMANDA- each to their own. And enjoy what you fancy. Have a look at Bellendtronic on Sniff Petrol . Is it standard on BMW?. 😀

Possibly same number of MOBOS on this system. Same problem with PSU and on board regulators. But I can see a long install time in future and other problems as I run old software that only likes XP ,and on a second HDD I run W10, INSTALLED ON AN OLD COPY OF w7,via a free update from MS. SO now ,for a clean instal, I'd have to partition both HDD, then install XP on the small HDD, then partition the big HDD for w7 and a store. Then install W7, and from previous problems install all the stuff that works with W7, authenticate it ,install W10 , AND THEN INSTALL w11. IS MS new CEO HAVING A NEW gIRAFFE?

Some of us are not too bothered. My Mobo etc was bought before Maplin went under and met the Grim reaper of high street stores. It meets a lot of specs, but I think It'll still be booting when boot hill summons me. The W+ W10 upgrade might be a nice inheritance for one of the kids/grandkids. So I think I'll download the W11 upgrade and keep it on disc. That way I can let them get back at the stealers at MS.

Asked them about springs as top mount good price. They do not stock front standard springs for mine.

Stewart- my pair cost me circa £108 this month from a firm in WM. Not OEM, but with this age of car, I'm happy. Today I replaced the driver headlight to make the car a bit better to look at. Conflicting tales on the state of the lens on the driver side. ( and possibly the competence of the "quick fit" places) . My "adjusted by a high street specialised trained operative" on one side was found to be out of alignment on MOT and the unchanged side ( which high street "specialised " could not adjust( poor light display) was found to be out of alignment but certainly of MOT standards for light output . Today I changed the driver side. First, locate and slacken the star bolt holding the bumper to the chassis. Pull on bumper to ease it forward away from body , then tighten in situ To remove fixings. 1) - remove the two star self tappers on the top of the slam panel. 2) At rear of unit, beside the wiring plug is a star bolt ( M10 thread ) securing a bracket to body of car. Remove it. I used a long 1/4 inch drive with a star adapter. I found it best to move bolt out of way 3) on lowerside of light unit there is a 10mm nut, securing inner side of unit to body. This nut has habit of being awkward to remove and disappear into the lower body. My tip- slacken nut off enough to allow you to fit a bit of string over head. Lamp unit should be free to remove. if not, then slam panel will need to be slackened off , by removing the star bolts close to unit and the ones around the bonnet lock. I used an old screwdriver to raise slam panel ,making lamp unit free. Release the lamp multiplug and remove the unit. Check that the origonal screws will engage with the captive nuts on the new unit. I found that I had to replace the ones provided with the origonals as the threads were different. Simple to do - use a small screwdriver to ease the new secure nuts out and replace with origonals. As in all good guides, replacement is reversal of removal. Enjoy. Tip- multi plug can be temperamental and lead to non lamp functions. Logical fault finding is order of day. Swap out lamps from old to new. ( it's a lot easier on table than nder bonnet) .

I'll throw in my 2pWORTH for a Midlands small family firm "EnergizedCuston ", based in Telford. I found them when looking to replace the two headlamps damaged in a car park. Here's their bit on top mounts https://www.energizedcustoms.co.uk/suspension/top-mounts.html?vehicle_make=58&vehicle_model=7788 They don't do standard springs, but do lowered ones. delivery is free on all orders or next day for a few £ . If in doubt message them with requir4ements and reg no and they'll get back to you. I've no connection, but on my experience I'd recommend them. Longest delay I've had on two orders is order late on Friday and delivered Tuesday. For folks living close to Telford, EG allow collection from site but pre arranged. For those using online facilities at Carparts4less, be aware that they do charge a click & collect fee. Whether they'res a limit I don't know. But AFAIK it's dearer than you think. Same building, same staff, same computer system . Just lower prices till the collection fee gets added in . e.g. H7 bulbs ( dip headlight) , CP4 PRICE £1.54, ECP price circa £4.50 or more.

Stewart- Energised price is less than that, but strangely enough, their price for a pair is more than buying a passenger & driver unit. ( rough price is£56 per side). Having taken a closer look at the damage to the driver side, I'm thinking that it'd look better to change driver side to match up and keep the car looking a bit less ancient. And for those in the West Mids, Energizedcustom.co.uk live in Hortonwood ( Telford), being a small family firm, who will allow collections if you let them know you are collecting. For the record- I've no association with Energizedcustom, other than having bought a unit and being pleasantly surprised to find it arrive on my doorstep next day for no extra cost. Fitting ,as said no real dramas. But then to me fitting shoes on the front of a mini van is a drama. As said, the plug is a PITA to remove, and it's best when unit is finally seated to ensure plug is seated. On mine, the height adjuster came fitted with a locking system, which proved a bit of PITA to free up and engaging the height motor is not a two-minute job. You do need to ensure that it's fitted and engaged. Best done with the unit out of car ( especially on the passenger side as there's little room between unit and battery. I found that loosening the bumper bolt, pulling bumper as far out as possible made removing the bottom bolt easier. I'd suggest that the bottom 10mm bolt be held with a bit of string when removing, to stop it dissapearing into the underside. But the screws and fixings on top should be checked before assembly as on mine I founf that the new fittings were smaller.

Update. As Sep says it's an easy swap. I found that removing bumper bolt on affected side gave me room to remove bottom bolt. Minor problem was getting multi plug on old unit free. The motor was easy to remove, but on my new unit the adjuster was held in place by a tight plug. Next problem was the top fittings. On inspection the "captive" retainers are a different size.But these are easy to swap out for the old ones. The bottom retaining bolt is easy to replace with the bumper bolt removed. Bit fiddly ,but no more so than changing the oil filter on an old mini van. For any one looking for a replacement might I suggest a look at Energised customers.co.uk

I found with apprentices that you never gave them anything you did not want them to loose. 😁😁

I'd agree, but for circa £2 I don't take the chance. Possibly this is a way for dealers to jack up the cost of an oil change. Possibly it's a side effect from the use of using compression washers else where. After 50+ years of driving ( and doing most of my own servicing on a lot more cars than I've got fingers) ,I've only changed a sump plug in one old car .( Head was damaged ). Never had one leak, or had any other problems even on one that had an aluminium sump. But dealers change them?????????????? Possibly a chance to think about re-using the old bolt and investing in a torque wrench, with the number of posts about sump plug problems. But why ( unless [ enter name of usual local big name motor store] is close by) why not just hop down to local motor factor and check out their price.

Many thanks, both lee and sep. I'd have bet on ECP having one, but their response to "what is a VIN", HAS ME PONDERING.

Thanks, LEE -noted ,should I ever get a reader .