VWD

From time to time I've asked for help with parts numbers for the odd thing, and it's usually the same two helpful blokes who help out. I've tried in vain to find some way of finding an online source, so any help to find one would be appreciated. In the meantime I've got to ask for help finding a replacement passenger side headlamp for an 04 Fabia as some kind person has tried to mate their car with my front NS headlamp and all three supports are broken. Breakers prices are close to those quoted by ECP, but ECP do not stock a replacement. I've found an app which quotes OEM numbers, but these are just numbers, as I've no reference to the part fitted. Headlamp is electrically levelled The first few digits of VIN ( after TMBPZ) ARE 46Y944. Car- 1.4TDI 55KW Second Q- some Headlamps are quoted minus levelling motor. is it an easy change or better to buy a new one with a new motor?

It might be worth mentioning that occasionally Aldi ( and sometimes ) Lidl have readers on sale at low prices. I'll leave passing judgement on how good these readers are to those that use them on a regular basis. Lee- out of curiosity -where is the port on the MK1? Ken- of course you could "suddenly " have this light come on and call out your breakdown( if you are a member), but on the last car, they had no way to reset it.

I've never seen any mention of gas strut for maintaining height of drivers seat, so I'll leave that for out techie guys. I have seen a warning ( and experienced it my self) about driver seat lowering when the lever is nudged getting in/out of car. Possibly this is the problem or cause of it. Of late I've developed a hip problem which means moving the seat back to get out . Possibly co incidence, but I've noticed seat drops over time .

It's a Skoda question for those in the know, but not I feel for any particular model forum. Those in charge may differ. If so feel free to move. Noticed one taxi firm uses a few Rapid models, but i have not noted many others. Yet I now see an increasing number of Scala around the town . So the question, is has Rapid died a death or has it now been named Scala ?

I've noticed this slant problem on the AMF engine. But back to the pro's checking oil. i've had more than a few "advisories" on MOT wher the oil is said to be low,,which I find strange as I check my level before going in for MOT. But I've had this on a breakdown, where the bloke got the engine started ,switched off and before oil had a chance to drain back ,checked the level . So I wonder if with MOT ,is it something to stick as an advisory to keep HQ happy or with breakdown a chance to make money? Personally if the oil level is above the min ,unless I'm going on a long trip ,I accept that as normal, realising that each engine will find it's "natural "level . I notice ( for example) that in the 14 years and 100k I owned mine that the natural level is halfway between the marks and over 10k I only use this amount of oil.

Typo - I blame it on a "senior" moment. Just checked what I recorded from a venerable old tech on this site. it should be 4.2L for an AMF. But from an abortive attempt to use a suction pump, I would suggest that 2.5L is half of oil in sump. I'd err on over filling, as years ago I had a fleet Astra diesel which was over filled by a garage ( I think it was Izusu engine). once warm it over ran and only way I could stop it was by stalling engine. Cost was a few cam followers. A few years later I had it confirmed in a conversation with a breakdown bloke. This engine was known to overrun/runaway when the oil was over filled. Hence ,I never fill my cars to the top on a ramp.

There are other problems with this place. i.e. can they find the oil filter. Can they change it with no oil loss?. Not really hard as the filter on a 1.4tdi ( MK1) sits on the top (LH side looking from front) of the engine, and the experts suggest removing it after the sump is empty( Tech1e ). . I had one oil change done as I often took firms vans in there for tyres, and manager told me QF owed me a discount. I know the oil was genuine, but the fitter ???? Personally, I'd sooner get son to help me out. Car on ramp. Go to it with NEW sump plug+ filter+ plus a can of oil from Asda. Genuine VAG 505.01 . Car on ramps- max 5 mins. Plug out-another 2 mins. Oil drain- possibly another 5mins, then take out filter ( 36 mm SOCKET , and let oil drain( most possibly filter is now empty). Cup of 505.01 down filter gap to get rid of any old oil, anotherv2 mins. Fit new filter+ sump plug 5 mins tops. Fill up with 2.45 L oil. Car off ramp and leave to stand. Check oil level and top up if necessary. I'd say 30 mins tops. AH well , remind me of the saying about peanuts and monkeys. Incidentally, son spent a lot of time in his younger days on school placements. He's helped me a few times ,as I cannot do physical things he can. I am a trained engineer. ( Not mechanical, but partially trained, as I spent the last six months of my telecoms engineer in the GPO MT SECTION,where we were trained to maintain our vans. ).

Almost, but not. The bit on the bonnet was straight, rather than spread. Exhaust was a two pipe rear extension, And all badges were gold, Seeing it regularly. Perhaps next time I'll get dashcam pic. +

Yep - it's had to be at least ( below) 110 for a lot of years. But anyone want to try out 110 V AC? But ,at least, with modern fuse boards, the chances of just more than a tingle are small.

Quote from "Crok Dundee"- I've got a Donk. I haven't, but I've got a SIL with one( grinder-he could possibly find a Donk in his biker circle), and a neighbour who sorts out trucks with a few. In emergencies ( after being in the car DIY game), I've got a cutting disc which fits in the chuck of my cordless.

Also very useful for removing old rear wheel cylinders when the inside bolt rounds with age . If the joint is that bad, will a pair of Moles ( tightened severely ) stop the internals from rotating ?

Not sure where to post this ,as it would be of interest to Fabia MK1 owners. in Sainsbury ,Nuneaton, doing a bit of shopping and looking for a shady spot to park. when I spotted -- Gold MK1 Fabia estate , with what looked like black alloys. But what caught my eye was the bonnet badge. Chrome/silver(?) bonnet mount with a badge with the Skoda emblem in the style seen on Mercs. Young lady told me she'd bought it like that . So perhaps one previously owned from this site. 51 plate. So for those in around Nuneaton , it's a nice car to look at.

Thanks -Wino. Digit is 4 . immaterial now as just after I posted it said no and AA had to help me. Gambled on the heavier one from Euro ( 2KW) which fitted , with a lot of help from youngest son, as I'm housebound without car. Biggest faf was getting the securing bolts out. Nut on securing bolts ( for anyone else) needs an 18mm deep socket .

In my days in the Highlands ( especially in summer) we believed that Tourists used to driving on more spacious roads never seemed to believe so. And I'm beginning to think that since the introduction of the hazard test that idea has been passed down to the modern generation. As far as I can see from the idea of "Hazards" ,it only becomes a hazard when it's too close to avoid. I regularly drive down my road to find drivers fail to see me till the last moment. is it myopic or arrogance I ask.

Sorry ,mate. No disrespect. But I hail from a part of the Highlands, where we had only one road, till the 80s, single track in almost it's length. Similar to Welsh roads, but I've seen a fair share of "nasties " in my years on this sort of road. Winter we had sheep/deer and other manners of nasties. In summer, we got tourists with less vision than the sheep we encountered sitting on the road. Just have a look at a post called Safes speed, where the "safe speed" is one I learnt about 50years ago "that space YOU as a responsible driver , can stop your vehicle in, with NO chance of collision, with another vehicle coming from the other direction.".

Looking for words from the wise. On a 1.4TDI 2004 AMF ,Euro have two similar starters listed. I would estimate from Haynes ( as AMF is said to be a 2.0KW motor) ,both with same number of teeth and another with another set of teth. As said -help, as I don't want to get the point of taking he old one out to find that the one I've ordered is the wrong one. ( and on the help point- Euro help desk was great but limited without OEM numbers). Anyone got the Skoda part no .

Liger- over my years ( 50 +)of testing for resistance on high current problems ,I rely mostly on volts drop over contacts. Modern DVM ( as I've said constantly) have a very low current consumption and will not detect an HR through resistance as the testing current is too low and the voltage too low to show the problems. On my DVM I ( as on most decent DVM) I have the ability to zero the display , but on cheaper meters, it's simply a maths problem( assuming that "SENIOR MOMENTS' do not occur -Wino- )

Wino- forgive the "senior moment". We all get them. But 0.8 ohms, seems a bit high to me. Perhaps I'd suggest a bit of cleaning/sticking the probe in a bit harder might prodice better results.

imrasl- resistance 0.8 ohms. But from what to what ? IF that is in the main starter circuit, then IMHO it's far too high. At a starting current through that WILL BE CIRCA 80+ Amps , then volts drop will be 80*0.8 = 3.60 volts( from OHMS law), leaving only 10 volts with a good battery to run electrics . ( As a simple explanation, Ohms law states that when a current flows in a circuit ,then volts will be lost in any bad connection). from my previous posts I advised a voltmeter ( on Volts) be used to test across connectors for volts drops. I gave the example from an old BMC starter circuit of 0.5 v max on the solenoid battery contacts.

Enter- I think SAD was referring to the fact that the box(i.e.) car is always disposable. But the contents of the box( whether it's you in your car/another driver/pedestrian or road user , cannot be replaced. Their endeth lesson one in the old (as taught to us old Gods Poor Orphans) on/in the first few minutes of getting behind the wheel of a vehicle. ( God's Poor Orphans was a slang name for GPO/ AKA PO(T) and possibly BT). In those days, we were taught that it's better to be late in this world than early to your funeral /appointment in casualty. I had it drilled into me after I passed my test by an old uncle who survived years driving tanks in the desert in WW2. It might be something to reflect on when trying to speed on narrow, unknown (to you) roads. Perhaps a lesson or two in road reading might be in order. ( No insult- just a gentle reflection from almost 55 years of driving and a lot of years driving on single/narrow country lanes. ). Lesson two was to find out how fast you could stop ( under control) in a vehicle.

Root- any 40/30/20 ( and sometimes 50)- I always keep inside the figure on the "lollipop" . It also helps to recognise "cash ready" areas ,where the WRI will make complaints, and keep an eye on local papers to find new "cash generator sites". I'd expect to see a new rash of enforcement coming soon as the WRI start spouting and the speed folk find funds are drying up. Never forget, it's not all about road safety, but finding employment for all those blokes put out to pasture as HMG UK LTD couldn't afford to employ.

This idea that the next marque w/upgrade etc getting better fuel economy has been around since before I was a teenager . Dad bought one of the MK1 Vauxhall Victors as sister/me + dog were getting a bit big for the old A30. A few years later MK2 came out, and a sales bloke tried to interest dad in one. Sales bloke spouted off about all the improvements. He thought he was doing well till economy came up and sales wally quoted economy figures at ( from memory) of circa 35MPG( which was good for a 1600 cc petrol at the time). Dad's reply "great, but mine returns over 40 ". Exit sales bloke stage right.

To be technically correct. Impedance is the combined effect of inductance and capacitance to the flow of alternating current. It's a subject for many hours of study, but not in the context of DC car electrics. I concur with Sep on this. The correct item under consideration is volt drop caused by high resistance joints. As a man(possibly OHMS)one said"when a current of one amp passes through a resistance of one ohm then one volt will be dropped". It only takes a bad connection at the battery or a battery with a high internal resistance to cause this sort of problems. The problem that modern day folks do not appreciate is that modern voltmeters read the battery, but with high resistance, so any current draw is minimal. What is needed is to check across each joint to look for volt drops. e.g. In a starter circuit, I'd expect to see no more than 0.5 volts drop across the solenoid. But tracing this sort of fault is a skill gained from many years of experience.

Locally some locksmiths can do this. I was quoted a reasonable price recently at one. I believe that Timpsons can happily under cut the main dealers at their bigger shops. And that includes programming the key.

Mac- could the black muck have come from the water supply. I and a few other folk in this locality have this problem where we get black gunk coming out of the cold tap, and the inlet drawer of the washer needs a good clean every so often. Water board version is that the culprit is a bug that lives in the water supply (so much for their sterilisation & purification procedures then) and only reacts when it meets air, Their solution is to clean taps with something like Milton. And as for Samsung, if it's anything like their latest TV sets, there will be a button which does nothing. (Samsung are one of the makers who've decided that although the TV remote is marked teletext, and the e manual says pressing this button will do that , the facility has been withdrawn)