FabiaGonzales

I am now running a hybrid turbo on my new engine build which is using the same actuator style as the 722G model. It works without issue, and if anything, boost control is actually smoother with less overshoot but that may be due to the much larger turbo. My engine also gained an extra 300cc since i last posted 👀

I run Darkside 12mm ones and Forge 16mm ones. I did have Forge 11mm ones on the front too, but at some point i discovered i actually had one 11mm and one 13mm one.. explained why I always had torque steer despite perfect alignment 😂 Now i've got torque steer again, but this time its tie rods 🤦🏻

My rims are ET46 and 7J and I run 12mm front 16mm rear, I don't have any problems with rubbing at all. Your wheels will be 4mm further out at the front, and 2mm further out at the rear. You might get a slight bit of rub on extreme compression, but i've seen others with the same offset wheels as mine with more spacer width and no issues. YMMV.

I would suggest ordering new top mounts while you're at it. Won't hurt anything. Stick with Meyle or Lemforder for the top-mounts though.

You don't need bump stops for the fronts. You can use bump stops from i believe the Ibiza, they're part number 6Q0512131D, they're what i have on mine and they're perfect.

With the shocks bolted in, the springs don't get anywhere near close to being loose. I meant that with the shocks out you still need to push the beam down to get the springs out. Sorry for the confusion. I've got H&Rs in mine, also had Eibachs, prefer the H&Rs.

The springs do not fall out or loosen when the car is in the air with standard length shocks. The fronts do become a little wiggly but not enough to become unperched. You can fit the front springs without a spring compressor, though removing the old ones from the strut assembly you should unless you want broken bones. You can also change the rears easily by unbolting the bottom shock bolt and pushing the beam down. The geometry of the mountings stops it dropping down completely by itself, but be careful as there are brake hoses that run over the beam that may become stretched if you push it too far. Not had an issue mysepf though.

Axle loads, the kit you need depends which engine and gearbox combinatiom you have.

No, it's mostly 1.2TSI parts. Some bits from other engines, like 2.0 injectors etc.

To update to my previous post, this is most definitely not the end of the Fabia! Instead I have gone all out with something pretty mad by all accounts. Not a 1.8, or 2.0, or even larger, but something entirely unique in it's own rights. This engine has been in the making for the past few months, with parts from many different engines all combined to build one familiar-but-not build. There have been many holdbacks, delays, problems to solve, hundreds of parts ordered, and too much money spent, but i'm too deep to back out of it now 😂 Full details will be released once it's up and running, which I anticipate to be by the end of this month! Some details I can share however are that it's getting a much stronger 6 speed gearbox, a Quaife LSD, and finally a custom exhaust system!

The JBS hybrid turbo gave me a good 110,000 miles (the engine reaching 182,000 miles) of pure joy, no issues engine or turbo wise. My engine unfortunately died a pretty untimely death at 182,000 miles, there was no individual point of failure, rather a few things that contributed to its death. I'm running a PCV delete, part of the PCV system is a little line that goes from the bottom of the intake manifold back into the engine block. This allows the manifold to pull a vacuum on the crankcase, i had this deleted. The downside to that is that line also acts somewhat as an oil drain to prevent oil building up in the manifold, and without it oil can pool up. I religiously ran Millers 5w40 CFS NT+. That oil is great, it took some serious abuse. The problem arises when i needed to do a service, my usual go-to stockist was out of stock and everywhere else was twice the price at nearly £85 for a 5L bottle (normally i get it for £45-50), i took a gamble and put EuroCarParts budget 5w40 oil in "Triple QX" or something. Suddenly i went from consuming 1L every 7,000-8,000 miles, to consuming that 1L in barely 1,500 miles. No change in performance, no blue smoke or otherwise though. A combination of this cheaper oil which seemed thinner by how i was consuming it so fast, the age of the turbo, and the lack of oil drain in the manifold (i did occasionally check for oil pooling in the manifold), resulted in the turbo oil seal letting through a lot more oil, the oil pooling up, and cylinder 4 sucking in a load of oil to the point it hydrolocked it. Points to take from this, don't run cheap budget oil, and if you are pcv deleted, it'd be a good idea to set up some kind of oil drain setup to make sure the manifold doesn't build up oil. The turbo still spins fine and has no noticeable play in the shaft that would suggest anything is wrong with it, so it wasn't a catastrophic failure.

There is a gasket set available on AutoDoc for around £25 or so. They're not difficult to fit. If the oil drain isn't leaking i'd suggest leaving that one as it's a pig to get out (the o-ring sorta welds itself into the turbo, i was able to hang my whole bodyweight off it and it didn't budge, there's almost no room to get a pick down the side either). But beside that, the oil feed and coolant gaskets are easy enough to change.

Overboost means the turbo is exceeding what the ecu is requesting, perhaps the wastegate is sticking a bit. You don't need to change the map sensor. Custom tune would be a dyno tune for example, where they tune the car specially for upgrades you have done like turbo.

You need it properly custom tuning to increase the boost, the 1.4 turbos can handle 1.5 bar boost and hold that pretty steady up to around 5000rpm on the 1.2's, you should be able to reach 180bhp with a custom tune

The head unit comes in two parts, the display unit and the control unit itself. Looks like you've only got the display unit there.

Does the light on the fob flash when you press the buttons? I found that shop-bought batteries were dead out of the box. Had great success with Duracell CR2025's ordered directly from Amazon. They sell alot so it's always fresh stock, rather than ones in a shop that've been sat on a shelf for several years, potentially baked by sun etc.

Stock mq200 clutch can take around 280-300nm torque, or about 210ftlbs ish, stage 1 shouldn't be pushing it far past 240-250nm, or about 185ftlbs ish. The low end torque you lose is below 2000rpm, however i found it actually makes it easier to use less fuel since the turbo is less agressive at low rpms. There is also the "small" 1.4 turbo (from the 122/125bhp variants) which will make about 160-165bhp, and a little less peak torque, but it is more responsive than the bigger 1.4 turbo.

Part Numbers: 6V0 863 242 * xxx * is the revision letter: No letter - 1st Revision B - 2nd revision C - 3rd revision All will fit and are identical in terms of apearance etc, 1st revision has no sound deadening, 3rd revision does, i can't speak for the 2nd revision. xxx is the colour code: 9B9: Satin Black FSW: Cherry Red HUS: Wild Grey LIG: Stone Beige I'm soon to be swapping out my satin black one with a new red one, wish i'd known you wanted a black one as i'd have done swaps 😂 There are a few available on eBay but obviously 2nd hand, they cost about £70 ish brand new from Skoda. If you'd be willing to wait, you could have my old black one for free (provided you cover postage or collect it yourself) once i get to a point where i'm able to fit my new red one (i'm waiting on parts that are still on back order, so i don't have any kind of timeframe for that).

These are standard parts on Monte Carlo trim cars. You can get the parts seperately from dealerships, they are quite expensive though, and usually require painting before fitting.

I could push mine out i think another 5mm, but i decided to err on the side of caution to avoid any rubbing. I've never had any rubbing on mine as they are now, front or rear. Are yours ET35?

Yeah they're 30mm front 45mm rear. I'm also running 7J ET46 wheels with 11mm spacers at front, and 16mm spacers at rear. I'll hazard a slight guess and assume your aftermarket wheels are 7.5J, which will make the tyres look a little thinner, and it doesnt look like you're running spacers?

Downpipe (with cat delete) will make it louder somewhat in general, you'll gain maybe 5-10bhp over a stage 1 with a downpipe, with a little more noise but nothing major. I've attached two pictures of my car running eibach pro-kit springs. Running standard shocks for now, but with shorter rear bump stops from the ibiza cupra r, as it was bottoming out a little too often with the standard bump stops.

IIRC the particular one im thinking of comes with attachments for both charging an external battery and via 12v socket. Could be wrong though

What about one of the CTEK chargers that uses the 12V Cigarette Lighter socket, easy enough to install/remove too.

I'm not aware of any clutch issues? It's the same clutch on both the 5 and 6 speed too. The stock clutch seems to be generally able to hold up to around 300nm. My clutch has now got 101k miles on it, 181bhp and 285nm for the most recent 28k of those, and it's still rock solid. I thought i'd finally killed it a while back but it turns out it was just contamination, still kicking on lol