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FabiaGonzales

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Everything posted by FabiaGonzales

  1. Yeah, but 200ftlbs is about as far as is safe for the stock rods too, so youd have to upgrade them too
  2. So, another update to the build. Finally. The 1.4 turbo i purchased some 10 months ago was fitted shortly after it arrived, and was unsuccessfully mapped in quite a few times by multiple people. After quite some time talking with JBS about EA211 engines and turbos, they told me that they'd decided to develop a hybrid for it finally. Sooooo.. I'm the first person with the JBSL12 Hybrid Turbo! Results; That's 181bhp, and 206 ft/lbs (280nm). With stock exhaust, and stock intake. Leading on from this we learned; The turbo is capable of 1.7 bar, but we only used 1.5 bar to reach the 280nm mark which is about the limit for the stock rods (we thought it'd need about 1.6 bar but it was actually much more responsive to the additional boost than we expected). The stock exhaust becomes a restriction at the 5000 rpm point, and it actually took less boost to get to the 280nm torque than we expected. Sports cat should cure that and allow up to around 200-205bhp (again, limited by stock rods), but... The high pressure fuel pump just starts to run out at 180bhp, it could probably manage 190 at a push, so they're looking into taking the internals from a 1.8tsi hpfp and putting them inside our hpfp. Uprated rods should let it make as much as the turbo can make, which will top out probably about 220-230bhp. 200bhp/litre would be an impressive feat, but it's not something that could be done without excessive RnD into uprating internals and custom built turbos (hybrid wouldn't be enough for that).
  3. Not sure what you mean? The mapping values for voltage vs duty%? You'd have to ask the likes of a tuner for that kinda stuff.
  4. Press the starter button with the key itself. There's an RFID module in the button and the key that only work when realllly close. Had to do this myself after getting stuck at work when the key fob battery died. Recommend getting a new pack of Duracell CR2025's off Amazon, they're generally really good. Always had issues with other brands arriving already dead or just die within a few days.
  5. Yuasa is a good brand to go for, that's what i'll go for if mine eventually dies. My Moll EFB battery seems in pretty good shape 5 and a half years in, halfords battery test comes back as being in perfect condition kicking out more than its rated CCA's. Start stop still works without issue. Obviously cant test capacity without an external tester that can fully cycle the battery. I might replace it come summer time anyway as that's generally when car batteries are cheapest, companies know car batteries most often die in winter and raise their prices accordingly, cheeky beggars lol
  6. I'm going for a sports cat, so it'll probably top out just around 200bhp. That's about as much as the turbo can do. You could try building a bigger turbo for it but that'd really be on the diminishing returns side of things and you'd lose alot of low end torque.
  7. Big Update So, my car went on holiday with JBS Auto Designs starting on monday, and i'm off to pick it back up again on friday.. The 1.4 turbo will generally make about 160-170bhp when done properly, basically it'll make the same torque as stage 1, about 230nm ish, but it'll hold that till redline where the 1.2 turbo would drop off. The casings and the likes just aren't designed for the 1.2tsi and it doesn't play well It's like having a small nozzle on a vacuum vs a large one, the large one flows better but it's far harder to control without accidentally sucking up the tablecloth, the smaller one is much easier to control but obviously it doesn't flow as well. You can try eek more out of it but that ends up making it surge, then it'll hit boost cut or stall from backpressure, and you end up with what we had before, a wavey graph that looked like it should make good power but wouldn't play ball without pulling it back to around 160bhp. However, that's not what my car went on holiday for, nope, it's had the hybrid treatment, the in-development JBSL12 hybrid turbo, i'm the first to get it done, and it's rather exciting! With the standard exhaust, it's making 181bhp, and 280nm torque! It's also reaching that torque a good 500 rpm earlier than the 1.4 turbo and holding it far far longer. The hybrid turbo is basically the 1.4 turbo core, packaged into a very heavily machined 1.2 turbo casing, the exhaust turbine is clipped slightly for more top-end amongst other little bits like ported exhaust manifold etc. The slimmer passageways keep exhaust gasses flowing faster and help the turbo spool up better despite it being clipped on the exhaust turbine. The exhaust becomes a limiting factor past 5000 rpm where torque finally starts to drop off (as boost has to be lowered to prevent egt's getting too high from backpressure), with a sports cat or decat, it's likely to make over 200bhp, so i guess that's where my money's going next... The other issue they've noted is that at 181bhp the fuel rail pressure just starts to drop a little, while not an issue at the moment, i'm looking at a sports-cat and it's possible that the HPFP may well become the next restricting factor, so that may become a part of their hybrid turbo package. Past the 200bhp mark though you're looking at uprated rods as you'll need more than 1.6 bar boost and that's about the safe maximum for stock rods. So here it is, the graph i've been waiting so long for;
  8. A "quick" little update about JBS Auto Designs' new hybrid turbo - JBSL12 Hybrid Turbo for EA211 1.2TSI engines. I'll let the following image speak for itself. Stock intake, stock exhaust. Sport Cat or Decat should let it reach 200bhp as the exhaust is choking it, though the HPFP might need an upgrade for much more than 180 as it's starting to lose rail pressure a touch (that might be where the cutting issues were coming in with the 1.4tsi turbo swap). Picking the car up friday so might be a few minor alterations but this is how it's looking. I
  9. They are H4 on the reflector only headlights, H7 on the projector ones. The LED H7 bulbs do generally struggle to fit because of the design of the retaining clip and connector. There are aftermarket clips available that should allow you to use awkward led bulbs.
  10. I'm running the standard rubber bush on the front, think i'm going to replace it with a poly (superpro one though, the powerflex design one sucks).
  11. That's the Ibiza Cupra R bush, 8N0 407 181 B You can get them from seat directly for not much at all (i think it was like £19 a piece or something, just ring them and give them that part number and ask for a price) or get a pair from another manufacturer for probably cheaper but possibly lesser quality.
  12. This is what mine are like, it seems they've updated the design, for the worse aparently. Ibiza Cupra R bushes fit our wishbones, or you could get the whole wishbone with the bushes already in (it's the same wishbone just with a different bush) but that's obviously more expensive. I'm not sure if TT/R32 bushes are voided and soft like ours standard or solid rubber like the ibiza cupra r. And i'm not sure on dimensions either as ive seen some with different outer diameters on my travels through t'interwebs looking for bushes lol. Ibiza Cupra R bushes are a definite though and you can get genuine ones for like £20 a piece from Seat. They're not a whole lot cheaper from aftermarket manufacturers.
  13. I went with powerflex bushes for this part, they're designed to lock in around the lip at the bottom of the wishbone. I've not had any issues with them popping out or any knocking. That said though i'm going for Ibiza Cupra R wishbones with the solid rubber bushes when i do my suspension upgrades.
  14. I see the main difference between yours and ours with the cut is that ours peak close to 300nm of torque, where yours sits quite happily at that 225nm area as power climbs. Do you know what peak boost they were running and what was it like toward redline? And also what gear were they running it in?
  15. Considering how much (or rather, how little) the car's been driven over the past few months, a 2 mile journey isn't enough to fully recover the charge used to start the car and cold weather further limits things. I'm not surprised it's gotten to a point where it's warning of low battery. With regular use and decent distances being driven, the system does not give fault. My car is 5 years old, yet gets driven daily on at very least a 10 mile each way commute, plus extras depending on how busy work is. Never missed a beat.
  16. I've got Dunlop SP Sport Maxx (same as Eeeek did) and i've got horrible sawtoothing on the inside edge of the rears. Haven't had any issue with any other tyres. The noise drives me mad after i swapped the front and rear pairs, it's as if the front wheel bearings have suddenly failed lol. I tried to cure it with limited success by finding a remote bit of road and doing one massive smokey burnout. It did reduce the noise a little but i think my lungs and throat are much worse for wear after doing that! Next time i'll have to turn on recirc before doing it... 😂 I'm hoping that these tyres last me until i've got the rest of the suspension upgrades sorted so I can have it laser aligned and know it's all spot on and wont ruin the new tyres (got a set of michelin ps4 on the way). I feel part of the sawtooth issue is that i've fitted eibach springs & bilstein shocks on the rear (where the noisy tyres came from), the only thing that should have changed though is the ride height, as nothing else seems adjustable (i didnt touch the pivot bushes yet, but i do have some poly's to go in there soon) maybe the geometry changes as the ride height does? Seems an odd way to do it in my opinion but hey. I've got Dunlop SP Sport Maxx (same as Eeeek did) and i've got horrible sawtoothing on the inside edge of the rears. Haven't had any issue with any other tyres. The noise drives me mad after i swapped the front and rear pairs, it's as if the front wheel bearings have suddenly failed lol. I tried to cure it with limited success by finding a remote bit of road and doing one massive smokey burnout. It did reduce the noise a little but i think my lungs and throat are much worse for wear after doing that! Next time i'll have to turn on recirc before doing it... 😂 I'm hoping that these tyres last me until i've got the rest of the suspension upgrades sorted so I can have it laser aligned and know it's all spot on and wont ruin the new tyres (got a set of michelin ps4 on the way). I feel part of the sawtooth issue is that i've fitted eibach springs & bilstein shocks on the rear (where the noisy tyres came from), the only thing that should have changed though is the ride height, as nothing else seems adjustable (i didnt touch the pivot bushes yet, but i do have some poly's to go in there soon) maybe the geometry changes as the ride height does? Seems an odd way to do it in my opinion but hey. I've got Dunlop SP Sport Maxx (same as Eeeek did) and i've got horrible sawtoothing on the inside edge of the rears. Haven't had any issue with any other tyres. The noise drives me mad after i swapped the front and rear pairs, it's as if the front wheel bearings have suddenly failed lol. I tried to cure it with limited success by finding a remote bit of road and doing one massive smokey burnout. It did reduce the noise a little but i think my lungs and throat are much worse for wear after doing that! Next time i'll have to turn on recirc before doing it... 😂 I'm hoping that these tyres last me until i've got the rest of the suspension upgrades sorted so I can have it laser aligned and know it's all spot on and wont ruin the new tyres (got a set of michelin ps4 on the way). I feel part of the sawtooth issue is that i've fitted eibach springs & bilstein shocks on the rear (where the noisy tyres came from), the only thing that should have changed though is the ride height, as nothing else seems adjustable (i didnt touch the pivot bushes yet, but i do have some poly's to go in there soon) maybe the geometry changes as the ride height does? Seems an odd way to do it in my opinion but hey.
  17. If you're with a Skoda dealership they won't fit any parts you supply, not even bulbs, because they can't offer warranty on the parts. If you still want to get it done cheaper, i'd suggest either; - buying genuine bushes from Skoda (theyll be like a few quid a piece) - buying third party bushes from euro car parts or online elsewhere (we have an 18mm ARB which needs bushes which have 16mm inner diameter - the bushes are smaller than the bar so they clamp onto the bar tightly) and then either; - fitting yourself, you'll ideally want a set of ramps (you want to secure the bushes in place while the suspension is loaded, ei wheels on the ground) - taking to an independant garage to fit them, if you're going this route, ask the garage how much theyd charge if they supply the part themselves, because there's a chance they might be able to get it even cheaper
  18. The Quinton hazel wishbones have served me well, still going strong nearly 2 years and 27k miles later. I found the powerflex bushes really improved accuracy and response/feel of the steering (make sure you get a laser alignment though), they didn't affect ride quality at all that i noticed. I'm still living with the donkey that is my ARB bushes, it comes and goes, but i'll be sorting it properly with powerflex or superpro bushes once i get all the parts for my front suspension rebuild/upgrade.
  19. Avon ZV7 are very quiet on the rears. Good grip too.
  20. Has it been fixed?! Haha, yeah below 2k is still pretty weak. There's a lot of lag but from 1700 ish the boost does eventually come on.
  21. Out with the old, in with the new. Bilstein B8 Shocks, New top mounts, New Ibiza Cupra R bump stops (67mm instead of 123mm). I already have Eibach lowering springs (45mm drop at the rear) and judging by the condition of the bump stops it's been bashing into them quite often! The stock shocks are now a sloppy mess, barely any damping left in them at all! The short bump stops mean the dust covers don't fully cover the shaft when it's in the air but when it's on the floor it's well covered. The rear end is no longer floating around at high speeds, it's certainly firmer, but it's not crashy at all, it's how i'd expect a brand new car to ride, i assume they'll bed in a little after theyve got a few miles on them and soften a tad but even so they're really great. Now just for the front end..
  22. Yes, but pushing beyond 1.7bar peak at only a little over 4k rpms (hitting over double the peak torque as stock), i don't wanna kill the engine! At least not yet anyway! Give it a year or two to live at least so i can save up for a built 1.4 hybrid replacement to drop in when it does go haha At a safer boost level (1.4 bar ish), it should be good for 200bhp at higher revs, with a nice wide power band from 3k to 6k ish. It needs more work on the mapping to get it dialed in correctly, and probably a map sensor.
  23. I've been looking into it a little more, it would seem that the stock map sensor is rated for 3 bar, but i can't find any actual solid information. I've messaged JBS regarding this. It may be that it is a 3 bar sensor, but the internal limiters are set much lower. I'm getting suspension sorted, then having the turbo mapped in, and then looking at exhausts. Maybe looking at a high-flow intake pipe between the turbo and stock air filter box at some point along the line.
  24. With MAP sensors, you have to take into account that boost is additional to atmospheric pressure, so 1.5 bar boost is 2.5 bar absolute. The stock MAP sensor is a 2.5 bar unit, the part you linked wouldn't have any affect, so that leaves a couple of other options; A 3.0 bar MAP sensor. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/vw-3-bar-map-manifold-pressure-sensor-038-906-051-c.html A 4.0 bar MAP sensor. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/genuine-vw-4-bar-map-manifold-pressure-sensor-small-probe-03k-906-051.html That's going off if the one you linked is the actual stock unit, i'll take a peek on catcar.info and see what i can find regarding that. Edit; Stock part number is 03G906051E, looking to see what the specs of that is - most places are showing up as it being a 3 bar sensor, but that wouldn't make sense. I might pull the intake filter off and see what's actually in there later..

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