FabiaGonzales

It's illegal to have a speedo which underreads your speed, so to take into account of that and how some people like to bump up the sidewall profile manufacturers will usually give a 5-6% margin. It'll have shown a different speed before the tyre changed too, you probably just didn't notice it! For tyre pressures as a starting point go from the recomended ones in the fuel filler cap label. From then on it's personal preference. Bearing in mine i'm on 215/40R17 so different to you (different tyre size different pressure recomendations) My old tyres i used to run 30psi (2.05 bar) as they were very harsh (i think they were possibly runflats) and that was the only way i could get any comfort at all. If i ran my current tyres at the same pressure they're super quiet and soft but i lose a lot of feel in the steering, i set them to 35psi (2.4 bar) to try out, and they're still comfortable, but felt a bit skittery on rough road, ultimately i settled for 32psi (2.2 bar). 2.5 bar is 36psi and is fairly high, though as you're on 215/45R16 tyres you can get away with higher pressures as it makes up for the flex in the sidewall. Don't go too low though, you'll overheat the sidewalls, have a blow out, and crash. Not the best thing to have. Going too high can increase the chance of a blowout if you hit a particularly bad pothole, but at the same time it protects the alloys better. Too high is also detrimental to grip as it reduces the contact patch. Try to settle for a middleground.

Did you take the ECU from the 1.4 donor car or just roll with the stock 1.2 map and ecu? I've been looking at the CZCA (122 aswell i think) and seeing how that fares, along with MQ350 NJU 6-speed gearbox (which i might put in alongside the 1.2 block if i blow up the gearbox 😂 (i'm getting diff whine under acceleration)

Yes, you don't want to be pushing much more boost than a stage 1 would on either of the stock turbos, you won't get any more torque out of the 1.4 turbo (or shouldn't if it's mapped safely/properly) but it should hold that same torque much higher into the rev range for an extra 30 bhp or so for the 160-170 mark. You can push it further if you want but it's going beyond what's safe for these turbos. The hybrid turbos are specifically built to handle the rpms needed for 1.6-1.7 bar, and can push that happily, where the standard turbos (1.2 or 1.4) can do it but aren't built for it, so can and will eventually fail and probably spectacularly.

Batteries don't really come with the BEM code anymore I your battery manufacturer doesn't show up on the list just enter any old 3 letter code (i used part of the batterys model name YBX9027 so i put YBX as the manufacturer id), it's primarily to make it more clear that the battery has been coded in to anybody else looking at it The serial just enter whatever the serial number of the battery is, if it's too short, add extra zeroes at the start or something, again it's not important exactly what it is, as longas it's different as when the BMS sees the new serial number it treats it as a new battery to relearn.

I used a bluetooth obd dongle called "VeePeak OBDCheck BLE+" it's available on amazon for around the £40 mark. As for the app, i used the following one (im on iOS i dont know if it's the same on Android);

In mine, i used the following; Type: Fleece Manufacturer: YBX Serial: YG12345678 The battery is a YUASA YBX9027, on the side of the battery is a serial, it's a large YG followed by 8 unique numbers, i used that as the serial to put in the coding. I used YBX as the manufacter so it'd be obvious to anyone that looked at it that'd see YBX9027 on the battery and YBX so theyd know if it was the one i'd put in. On the app i used, it offered a few different battery types that i could select, efb, fleece, agm binary, plus others, fleece is what germans call agm batteries aparently and is what we should select for AGM drop ins, so i used that. For approx a week after installing and coding the new battery stop-start didn't function, my dealership said that it does this so it can first learn if the new battery is actually healthy or not and get itself an idea of a state of charge etc. My old factory efb battery got to the point where stop-start stopped working one day and never came back, i fully charged it with a CTEK and changed the serial number to force a battery relearn and start stop came back but only for a couple days till it stopped again and never came back after that 😂 the new agm one has been rock solid ever since.

Honestly can't hear anything out of the ordinary, sounds a lot quieter than mine that's for sure haha

Sits well that! Those shocks must have set you back a bit! Did you need spigots and/or spacers for those alloys?

That's what you get from a bigger turbo, they come in a few hundred rpms later (stock around 1400rpm, 1.4 turbo around 2100rpm, jbs hybrid around 1800rpm), but they shine when it comes to holding the boost to higher rpms. standard turbo can do 1.2-1.25 bar peak safely, but drops off to 0.9-1.0 bar at redline, the 1.4 turbo will do 1.5 bar peak safely, but will drop off to 1.2-1.3 bar toward redline, the hybrid is designed for 1.7 bar peak and to drop off to 1.5 bar toward redline, though with the standard exhaust it's restricted to similar numbers as the 1.4 turbo can make. Sports cat will help in all situations, but with the standard and 1.4 turbo, the main restriction is the exhaust turbine of the turbo itself (standard 140 ish, 1.4 185-190 ish), so you will gain some but not massive amounts of power by having a sports cat. The hybrid turbo is designed to flow around 220bhp, so that is restricted by the exhaust (180-185 ish), a sports cat on that will allow for over 200bhp, a nice juicy bump! I'm in the process of saving up for and getting a custom exhaust made over the next few months, i'll then pop it back in to JBS for a tune up and see what kind of numbers we get from it then 😁

You will notice a difference especially at low rpms, the 1.4 turbo spools much slower so it's got that going against it too. You will certainly notice the difference when you have it mapped in properly.

A 70bhp difference between power at the wheels and power at the engine seems off to me. That's a 37.5% loss through the drivetrain. Have you ever tried for a top speed run? Would be nice if we all went to the same place for dyno runs 😂

Yeah exhaust needs upgrading, the backpressure from the stock cat hurts spool and increases cylinder pressure and temps alot, its bad for the engine and the turbo, free flowing exhaust reduces those temps so you can oush it further. 180bhp is about as far as you want to go on the stock exhaust, you can force more through it but the car will start pulling power cos of it, i suspect that's partly what the surging was all along, trying to push too much gas through the exhaust, backing everything up, o2 sensor would detect its too hot and itd pull timing and boost, the whacky wastegate probably didn't help either. 200ftlbs region is safe for the rods, beyond that is kinda untested in terms if reliability, mine made 230-240ftlbs before without spontaneously ejecting themselves out the side of the block lol

I doubt 99 octane would gain that much. You gain a couple degrees extra timing but that's about it. The exhaust is what holds everything back past about the 180 mark. The JBS hybrid can push considerably more than the 206 ftlb / 280nm that JBS gave it, we only left it at that for the longevity of the rods and to reduce stresses while i get a sport cat downpipe sorted for it. Its torque also comes in around 1800rpm, though it's limited to about 170ftlb until 2200 to try keep the stock clutch happy (i've done 10k on the stock clutch and it feels no different to when i first had it done, but then again, i don't hard shift or flat foot shift like some do.. 😂 ) The RTMG is based off the smaller 1.4 turbo which is a much similar design to the 1.2 turbo, the wastegate behaviour is much closer to the 1.2 turbo as a result so it shouldn't really have any issues with that. I'm surprised the RTMG only made that much considering how massive the turbine / compressor are, what's spool time like? Once i've got my exhaust sorted i should be making around the 200bhp region and a tad more torque through the mid range since the clutch seems ok with it.

181bhp on 99 octane. I recently ran short and had to put a little bit of BP 95 to get by, out of curiosity i watched timing pull from knock and it was pulling 10-11 degrees of timing on 95 octane, on 99 only 3-4 degrees which is normal. It definitely felt sluggish and boost came on slower. BP 97 octane had pulls of between 6-7 degrees, and didn't have the same slow boost buildup, but it lacked power in the top end, struggling to get to redline in 4th, with 99 it can reach the rev limiter (136mph @6500 rpm ish) in 4th.

Got 16mm Forge spacers on the rears on mine today, Gives it a far more agressive look from behind. 20mm would probably look ever so slightly better still but i didn't want to risk rubbing on big bumps given i'm not on stiff coil or anything, plus i got the spacers + bolts from someone on facebook for fairly cheap compared to a new set lol.

Who with and what did you go for the exhaust? Just the downpipe or a full system? Also do you have a dyno graph of yours? The exhaust is holding mine back a lot, i can get to 140 but as i only have a 5 speed i'm already at 5300 rpm by that point where im losing power because of the exhaust it takes damn forever to get to 140 haha, of course with a bit of a tow from a rather confused range rover driver it gets there and beyond quicker.

What size spacers do you have and how does it look? Looking to get spacers for mine

Ooh, any hints of how the sport-cat will handle an MOT? I'd love to get a better exhaust on mine, i've a feeling the back section is a restriction too, not just the cat(s), if it's a dusty road and i plant it, the stock exhaust kicks up massive clouds of dust 😂 might see if i can get the map upped a little once it's got an exhaust on it too, ive done about 6-7k on the hybrid so far and it's solid as a rock.

I disconnected & reconnected it like that (same as in the user manual), no change. I don't see anything that's changed, or at least i didn't see anything different before i started poking.. 😂 I was curious to see whether changing the battery serial would have any effect (to make the BMS see it as a "new" battery) type was set to efb (i left that alone) manufacturer was set to JCB (eh? I left that alone too) serial was 1111111111 (which i just zeroed out) The result? charging voltage dropped to about 14.4v, and now once it hits 75% ish, it drops to 13.3v ish (previous 13.6v ish) unless on overrun. No return of stop/start yet. The battery has been disconnected before (and as far as i can remember, stop start worked again straight after). Recently after being a little deeper drained a few times (when having the hybrid turbo tuned in sat with ignition on engine off etc), it's taken a few days to recover and resume stop/start functionality. The other wierd little thing it does is when lifting the clutch (in neutral) it raises revs as if it expects me to pull away. It's done that previously when "recovering" too but it's a little random thing ive noticed I've ordered a Yuasa YBX9027 AGM battery. Whenever that comes i'll code that in properly with the actual serial and manufacturer code (does anyone know the manufacturer names-codes references?) and see how i get on with that. I have a feeling this battery is on its way out. Even with a good 1hr+ drive out, shutting off and leaving for 12hr the battery is usually sitting around 11.8v ish and it drops to 9v (and possibly lower) the cars not complaining about it or anything, just stop/start not functioning. Edit: previously it only used to drop to ~10.5v when starting the car (and even after prolonged cranking by disconnecting fuel pump it stayed above 10v)

Yeah i've checked that. If i unplug that, the charge % reading doesnt work and voltage sits at a steady 13.8 ish, no fluctuation for overun or anything. Might disconnect it and reconnect it again to see if that changes anything.

So, recently my top right engine mount (the one next to the coolant reservoir) split (and made a right mess), I ended up swapping all 3 engine mounts for Polo GTI ones. Anyway, to do this i had to remove the battery (albeit only temporarily). I disconnected the +ve first, and connected it up last. Stop-Start was working properly beforehand, but since the mounts have been replaced, stop-start no longer works, it simply states "engine must be running", i've a bluetooth OBD module which shows the battery gets to ~85% charge via flat rate 14.8v, once it hits that point it drops to overrun-only charging. Still no stop-start though. Any clues?

If you ever crash it, let me know, i'll swap seats with yours, been wanting these for a while now but haven't seen any pop up anywhere;

Shuddering at idle with EPC sounds like some sort of timing issue. A possbility it could be clutch/dmf. Take it to someone witha code reader to see what the actual issue is.

True, the BMS does use a standard charging scheme to get the battery up to somewhere around 80% or so, after that it drops off to basically the battery doing nothing and the alternator is powering all the car functions. But still standard batteries aren't too fond of being even that low, they prefer being full all the time and being trickled constantly.

Then that's how our BMS handles it, so it shouldn't overcharge on overrun. That still leaves the main issue with the fact that as standard batteries have higher internal resistance, they won't be able to take on as much charge from regenerative braking and overrun, that'll leave the battery in a constantly low state of charge that's going to encourage the formation of sulphur crystals on the electrodes. EFB and AGM batteries don't have such issues by design, but they don't like being constantly charged (standard ones like being trickle charged, agm prefer a pulse maintenance style of charging).