FabiaGonzales

Not as of yet. Lockdown's put a bit of a hold on things as i don't live close by anywhere, but i've been speaking with JBS who've said basically for anything beyond the stock turbo, you have to start looking at uprated MAP sensors. The stock map sensor can read up to 1.5 bar boost and the ecu is configured to cut boost if it gets too close to that, so to get much more than about 1.2bar (stage 1 ~130bhp, with stock turbo) you need an uprated map sensor, which supposedly increases the maximum boost the turbo can see along with the internal limiters that come in just before that maximum. The uprated sensor needs mapping by a tuner though, it's not a simple plug and play, if you do put it in without mapping it, you'll probably destroy the engine as it'll run far too lean. JBS have told me they're working on a hybrid turbo which they expect to produce around 190-200bhp, it's a similar but more optimised design than simply slapping on the 1.4 turbo (i'd imagine with lower lag and more top end but I don't know any finer details than that though). As everything's been put on hold, debts from elsewhere have cleared and i've a bit better cash flow (promotion at work along with more hours woop), so i'm getting the suspension up to scratch while i wait for some news on the turbo front. Depending on how much ive saved up going into the new year i might even go the full hog and go for the hybrid if it comes out decent looking.

I do have 73,000 miles on it, and it's mostly seen back roads, so that's most likely something to do with it. The bearing had started making some noise at low speeds (like a low rumble), i've found the main beam bushes are starting to split (probably due to the type of usage and the fact it's lowered), and the shocks are as firm as a half deflated balloon, so i've gotten some bilstein b8 shocks and some polybushes for the rear beam. I also got hold of some bump stops from an ibiza cupra r which are only 67mm long instead of 128mm long (they've been trashed from being crushed so often haha) so maybe that'll improve comfort a bit! Once i've got the rear suspension done i'll post an update on my build log which if you search for Fizzy's Log you'll probably find it 😂

310/312 either or is fine. The spec says 310 but there's a bit of wiggle room. I'm building up two assemblies (one for each side) completely from Polo GTI parts, hub bearing, knuckle, brake caliper & carrier, and everything. Looking to have all the parts needed in december, if not then january. I had a rear wheel bearing **** itself recently so i've spent a little on re-vamping the rear suspension first. Interestingly the rear discs have the brake caliper & carrier removable entirely, so it should be relatively easy to swap those out to the Polo WRC (254mm vented discs) rear brakes.

An uprated map sensor must be mapped in properly, if you don't the boost will be much higher than you expect with no extra fueling and you will run far too lean and probably melt the pistons! I don't know of any but JBS is the place to go for that sort of thing because of their work with the hybrid turbos (which incorporate a map sensor upgrade too)

Mine boosts way higher than its supposed to (on external sensor it peaked at 1.7bar just before boost cut kicked in!) and was making around 325nm! My clutch feels as though its quite worn but it still held it no problems! If you have the 5spd box i'd avoid lugging it at low rpms full throttle in 5th gear as that seems to be a weak point of those boxes (it puts too much stress on the bearing at that end of the box). Haven't heard of any such issues with the 6spd box yet. The larger 1.4 tsi turbo doesnt like to hold a steady boost, it wants to peak really high or hold a much lower boost. It's difficult to get somewhat of a midway, and as soon as we took it for road testing it was getting giddy and boosting too hard again (it was making some good turbo spool whistle sounds though hehe)

I can't really give an accurate figure but id guess you'll probably lose a little peak torque but keep the same max power

A hybrid turbo depends on what components they build it with. JBS are doing one which should result in around 190-200bhp, and also includes an uprated MAP sensor as it seems that is the main limitation in these engines as they hit boost cut so easily with uprated turbos.

It is the smaller turbo yes, and yes if you brought it back down it shouldn't hit the limit any more, you'll probably see around 260nm torque. The graph looks good otherwise though. About whatd be expected from a standard turbo with decat and intake.

1.5bar is the limit of the map sensor and the ecu and is where boost cut kicks in (the ecu may close throttle to do this depending on how its set), youll have to get them to pull the max boost back to around 1.4-1.45bar. You're about at the limit of the smaller turbo at that point though. I'm looking at getting an uprated map sensor to make it easier for the ecu to deal with the peak boost, and possibly keep holding it longer. The larger turbo comes in much slower and as such probably should be dyno'd in 4th or even 5th gear to let the turbo have chance to spool up at low rpms. That being said in road testing from 30-60mph at a lower boost map it was still a good 2 seconds quicker than stock despite hitting boost cut 2-3 times (having trouble getting wastegate duty to behave).

The exact same actuator is used on both the 1.2 and 1.4 turbos but the 1.4 turbo casing is a little larger, so the same duty % doesn't match up when it comes to the actual wastegate flap angle, it's something that'd need to be recalibrated, the mapping is telling it to make 1.4bar at e.g 85% duty but that's not actually 85% its quite a bit more and it's making the turbo overboost then hit boost cut. The hybrid being based on 1.2 casings will have same as standard wastegate positioning and as such the duty% mapping will all match too, so it should hold the correct boost fine. Even so, 1.45bar is quite close to the limit of the map sensor, if it goes 1.5 bar it will cut boost as it cant measure beyond that, so even a momentary spike will make it cut, it's all about really fine tuning and adjusting wastegate maps to make everything play properly together. I have suggested just working out how to map around the 1.4 turbo, as that's cheaper, but it seems like they want to make something of their own they can release and make more money off but oh well

The fluctuation is indeed the actuator clumbsily trying to control the boost, the exhaust is ruled out as we disconnected that, no real change from that except like +3-4ft/lb across the whole torque curve. Speaking with JBS it seems it's possible that it's getting too close to the MAP sensor limit and boost cut is kicking in (or there's some kind of boost limit setting somewhere we didn't know about that needs raising) but i'd hae thought it woul start to throw codes and go to limp mode, but no it happily went to 120mph and was still accelerating uphill, it's a beast when it works. The hybrid turbo i would guess may manage like 190-200 as theyre basing it from a 1.2 turbo casing with internals based from the 1.4 but a larger intake compressor and ported intake sides. I'll find ways of getting it done cheaper 😂 probably get them to hybrid my old 1.2 turbo first then fit it myself and later have it mapped in haha on the dyno it did produce a nice smooth curve with 180bhp, the 190bhp one drops off after 5k because boost cut (hes looked through all the logs and maps since the first time), there's no throttle closing as such, t's just that's what it feels like, as if someones pressing and releasing the pedal repeatedly.

Are the coilpacks those red APR branded ones? Do you know which NGK part number those plugs are? Unfortunately yesterday's Turbo Tuesday started out promising but ultimately was unsuccessful. We got the graph to smoothen out nicely on the dyno and it pulled well, 180bhp and 230ft/lbs (about 310nm) with a nice curve and no big drop offs. When it came to road testing it behaves quite eratically, 1st gear spins if there's even the slightest whif of moisture on the road, 2nd gear spins in the same manner if it's damp too. Eventually found a clean road to test it on and found it really didnt know what to do with itself, there's such a fine line between it making not much boost and making all the boost where it cant react quick enough to control it properly, it fluctuates high/low, and we suspect this is due to the difference in sizing of the exhaust side of the turbo and its wastegate, there's not enough flow from the 1.2 engine to spool the turbo up to make decent boost without fully shutting the wastegate but doing that makes the turbo try to make over 1.7bar where the ecu says no.(Also don't wanna destroy the engine yet!) The wastegate duty/boost maps will need extensively and delicately altering for it to behave properly, ADE said they can do it, but it's something that would require being developed over a couple weeks, with extensive road testing and a lot of cost involved too. Imagine it like when you're trying to vacuum the tablecloth, there's a fine line of it not sucking anything up because its just that bit too far and you move it a tad closer and then its ripping the damn table over taking everything with it 😂 So, i'm talking with JBS (who said they kind of expected the wastegate behaviour might be an issue when trying to push higher boost on the 1.2), and they've told me they're in the process of building a hybrid turbo, which since i'm so far down that route is something i might have a look into, but i've also suggested that since the 1.4 swap has got quite a lot of interest that they should look into developing a map for it and offer that as a half way point between a stage 1 map and a hybrid turbo.

Yeah it'd fit, but 3" is totally overkill, theyll cope with beyond 500bhp without breaking a sweat! I'll have a look at Friedrichs offerings, what are the sports cats like for passing MOTs? A decat would be a guaranteed fail i guess.

Ah going for a magnaflow exhaust? If you went 2.5" on the downpipe i'd suggest going for 2.5" the rest of the way too, have to find someone who does 2.5" silencers and mifflers and get someone to bend and weld some pipe between em. For ease of fitting and longevity id recommend v-band clamps rather than the usual flimsy sleeve clamp and putty style things

A custom manifold sound ambitious! I assume intake as there isn't an exhaust manifold to speak of, the turbo bolts straight onto the back of the head. 2.5 inch is good for 300bhp ish, and shouldn't be too loud if done appropriately, unitronic offers a 3" sport cat section which costs $699, completely overkill! I'm looking at trying to pick up a 2nd hand Polo GTI exhaust back section (55mm opposed to 50mm on the 1.2/1.4's), if unbolting the rear section proves to be beneficial.

Haha, have you done such a thing?

I don't think so, the angle as it comes out of the turbo doesn't look suitable. You could always try it and see, and if it does't, return it?

What phone? Been trying to find how to get it on iOS for ages but cant for some reason

I'm not running any BOV, it's wierd how it falls off but starts to climb again. I have found a difference between the 1.2/1.4tsi exhausts and the 1.8tsi exhaust, the 1.2 and 1.4 exhausts go from 55mm (2.15") to 50mm (1.95") after the first resonator. While the 1.8tsi exhaust stays at 55m all the way through to the end. I'm wondering if as it hits that 185ish bhp region the smaller pipe at the end of the exhaust is causing a surge of backpressure, stalling the turbo, then as the power drops off, the backpressure dissapears and it starts to gain a bit again. As it's just a clamp between the two parts, i might get them to take off that clamp and dyno it without the second half of the exhaust, i'd imagine it'll be stupid loud, but it'd prove or disprove my idea.

As I have the 1.4tsi turbo on my 1.2tsi lump, it's going to be kicking out around 300NM as of the 20th of this month, the stock clutch is rated somewhere in the region of 200NM, so it ain't gonna like it! I've been looking at two options; Sachs Performance Organic Disk (some pages say it's rated 280NM, some say it's rated 380NM). Sachs Performance Sintered Paddle Disc (everywhere i find it it's shown as being rated for 380NM). Now, i've done approx 20k miles on my current clutch, at stock power, and it's feeling like a sponge. What i don't understand is that i don't go hard shifting at all, occasionally a hard pull out of a junction, but i don't use every junction or traffic light as a drag strip, while it does get regular excersize up to 6k rpm I'm sympathetic to the clutch and gearbox, i wait for revs to drop before letting the clutch back out, often not even using the clutch, and just floating it into gear as the revs drop past it. Yet my clutch still feels like it's about worn out completely!? Here's one listing for the clutches; And here's another; Has anyone else used or driven a car with the sintered paddle clutch before? Do they last longer than the organic ones? How is the drivability? I want something that will happily cope with the 300NM my engine will soon be kicking out. The organic ones just don't seem to last even though i've treated it as gently as possible..

They're something any decent garage "should" have a few spares of, in case of replacing split lines etc. You can always call ahead to see if they do. You might find its easier to get the dealership to order some in they'll do them for you at part price if you ask them nicely. Be only a couple quid i guess. You do get an edit option but only for like 2 hours ish after you made the post/reply.

The same exhaust is used in the 1.4tsi, and is capable of 230bhp with a hybrid turbo, it would make an improvement being straightpiped, but it's not the limit. I'll be honest that peak does't look super healthy for the turbo, how much boost was that making? And note how your peak power is at only 4300 rpm, and how it drops off significantly after 4500 rpm. My tuner was logging everything with VCDS monitoring boost and such, and found that it was actually closing off the throttle, no matter how much or how little boost we threw at it at the low end, it wouldn't let it past 130bhp beyond 5000rpm, its like there's some safety limiter it was hitting but we weren't able to figure it out in the time we had available. When i go back in for my second attempt, we're chopping out the secondary cat too, so we'll see how much of a difference that makes. The 1.8tsi uses a larger diamater exhaust which already ditches the secondary cat, i'm not sure if the o2 sensor holes are compatible though. Plus the brackets would need some adaptation for where it braces to the back of the engine block

Was it mapped beforehand? Those stock numbers look suspicously stage-1 like! Have you got a graph to see the torque curve? From that much peak torque (same as what mine made in testing) it should be carrying through much closer toward 200bhp. I have this graph of a run whilst trying to eliminate the wierd throttle bug, perhaps yours has it too but the tuner didn't mention it. 190bhp, 218ftlb (295nm). On a unrecorded unrestricted run we saw 208bhp at ~4750 rpm, and about 240ftlb (325nm) peak torque a little before that, with the throttle practically shutting beyond that pulling power back to around 130bhp. That was hitting over 1.5bar boost which is the limit for the map sensor too, so it was dialed back to 1.4bar for this run;

I've looked at the brake lines and fittings, you will need new copper crush washers for the banjo bolts, but the lines *should* fit, they might be a little tighter than before. I generally get the part number from catcar.info (or other part catalogue website), and paste that into a parts site and it feeds me a list of all the matching parts. Polo GTI calipers & carriers are a great choice, they're a guaranteed bolt on swap (along with the knuckle of course), they're also red painted, so should look neat when they're all done and dusted.

Yours is the 110ps version? Mine was making 95ish standard without any mods at all and it's got 70,000 miles. Not too bad It'll be exciting to see what you get out of yours, if you can a graph pic would be nice too