FabiaGonzales

The injectors from the 1.4tsi will fit, whether they're actually larger, i can't say. There are numerous part numbers used in the 1.2/1.4s with some of them being shared (possibly just the 122/125bhp variant of the 1.4).

Do note the AC does still run when the heat is on, it dehumidifies the cabin and stops it steaming up inside. I've always left the AC on. Unless you mean that pressing the button it won't turn off and always kicks out freezing cold air?

The parking sensor should be fine, there's a tonne of space behind the bumper before it'd hit anything, if you're unsure, start the car up, press the parking sensor button, get out and wave your hand near it, if you can hear it screaming, it's fine

I doubt we'll ever really know what they rate it as, maybe 200mn, or 200ft/lbs, to last estimated 150k miles or 20 years idk. Update #3 Well I found out what had happened with my gearbox, a cracked tooth on 5th gear wore unevenly eventually failed with a big bang, destroying the needle bearings that allow the gears to float on the shafts, letting what remained of 5th gear flail about and disintegrate. Luckily enough, since it's a new box which was originally replaced under warranty, it's covered under an extension of that warranty as a faulty replacement part, they mentioned it's normally 10k miles and 1 year, but being a manual gearbox, a failure at 15k miles and 18 months is not reasonable by any means! Side note, it's having its cambelt changed too (might aswell while it's gone), so ill be getting the car back hopefully mid next week.

Yep, the Fabia engine the same as the UP's, curious to know what they used, hybrid turbo? Or taking a leaf from our book and stuck a 1.5tsi turbo on it? 😂

What does "transferable torque" convert to in terms of engine/wheel torque? As far as i'm aware, it's the limit to the torque applied by the engine to the input shaft. Curious to know otherwise

Update #2 Spoke to the dealership this morning, the oil was clean, with all the parts of 5th gear contained in that little area away from the rest of the gears. Aparently it's not possible to just remove 5th gear (personally i think otherwise that it is possible though). They're doing a full strip down to see if there's similar damage to any of the other gears and to gather more information to try chase up warranty claims. On a side note, i've a 1.0TSI 95PS loan car, other than it having no rattles, not super impressed with it, CarPlay stutters (i'll grab the model number of the head unit this evening), the tyres are LOUD (15" nexen economy things), there's a lot body roll in cornering, the car pitches and dives heavily when accelerating and braking, the handbrake is poor (rear drum brakes instead of discs), the seats are somehow even less supportive, the engine isn't particularly refined, it's sound dampened to the point where you can't hear the engine till it's around 3500-4000 rpm (good for some i guess), and i keep finding myself in the wrong gear wasting petrol, though i still managed about 4 mpg higher over 100 miles. The accelerator response is very nice though, much quicker and smoother than the 1.2TSI i find. Otherwise, it's like driving my own car where someone did an engine swap, stole some features, and swapped my wheels and suspension with some rather soft alternatives. If all goes well with the gearbox and it's covered under warranty, the turbo will be getting mapped in shortly after, and i'll be looking at having a custom hose designed to replace the wierd plastic "manifold" piece between the air filter and the turbo, should help getting air into the turbo especially at high revs, and if i'm lucky, might give a tad more induction noise..

Yeah i'm still on the stock 90ps map, i was unable to locate a nearby garage that was willing or that could fit it in, so i've ended up taking it to my dealership, i'll see if i can get pictures from them if possible. With a bit of luck, it might even be covered under the extended warranty that the gearbox was originally replaced under. Only just made it to the dealership, it went with a big clang as i rolled up to a stop in the parking spot! If i do have it done under warranty, i might get them to put in that 4 paddle organic clutch thats rated like 380nm. Hopefully that won't slip 😂 The 6 speed has an extra pair of bearings that support the ends of the input/output shafts so the 5th and 6th gears are supported by bearings at both sides, whilst the 5 speed does not, it's hanging off the end basically, with extra load going through that one main bearing that would be supported by two bearings in 6spd box. My guess is that over time, sustained torque wears that bearing more with increased heat which contributes to more play on 5th gear, which then goes into a downward spiral of debris and metal in the oil destroying stuff worse.

Update on my gearbox: It's going into my local mechanic shop tomorrow to have 5th gear removed. It's well and truely died, within about 5 seconds 5th gear completely gave up the ghost and is unusable and parts of it are rattling around the box. I'll update again tomorrow with pictures of what's left of 5th gear once it's all extracted from the gearbox.

The earlier EA111 1.2TSI had a different turbo setup, where slight differences in manufacturing meant it could open too far and get stuck, the design of our turbos (and actuators) means that if something actually gets stuck, it's because of carbon buildup, the wastegate flap can open way further than the normal range and still shut easily (i've had one of the turbos off the car myself, having done an upgrade to a 1.4 turbo). The way i drive my car, carbon buildup is no concern at all, it's as clean and free moving as a brand new one straight out the factory 😂

It's just a bog standard turbo, there's no need (or way actually without taking off the coolant lines) to take the heat shield off to get at it, just have to reach around the back of the turbo.

My "new" clutch doesn't seem to have lasted amazingly either, It was replaced at the same time as the gearbox @ 52k miles, (i put 42k earlier but realised that was incorrect, ive had this gearbox and clutch for only 15k miles!) the clutch biting point is very high, when it was in for MOT last month, i was told that it's fine and nothing to worry about (i guess, "if it doesn't slip it's fine" comes to mind there), but it's often a little difficult to have smooth shifts. Initially for the first couple thousand miles there was heavy gearbox whine especially in 2nd gear, as the box was run in it quietened down to what i considered normal; 1st gear no noticable whine (engine drowned it out i suspect) unless i held the clutch in while moving in gear, 2nd gear only whined at light loads at low speeds (like 15-25mph), 3rd gear from about 20-25mph again on only very light loads, 4th was silent, and 5th was also for the most part silent except for on particularly cold days when i'd barely set off driving. I've now noticed that there's a lot of drivetrain backlash if im trundling along at 30-35mph in 5th gear and lightly apply and release throttle, which doesn't feel too pleasant nor sound great, 5th also makes a very easily reproducible hammering knocking sound when coasting, the noise dissapears when there's load, it's most noticeable 2k rpm and below, and now will often whine while accelerating too. Occasionally other gears will also whine. I don't drive too economically, but even though my engine sees the upper end of 5000rpm fairly often, i don't hard shift it, i wait for revs to drop first, making the clutch do as little work as possible, and on upshifts i rev match, specifically aiming to prolong the life of the clutch while driving spiritedly, and the gearbox still gets damage, and it's only on stock 90PS 160NM map too.. The particular gearboxes can be found for a couple hundred quid, sometimes much less (ive seen one sell for £85 on ebay!) and if you have/know/are a decent mechanic, they should be able to get it in and out quite quickly for you. That's if there's nothing else that can be put in instead - which i will look into. The 02T boxes what our 5/6speed is based on have hollow shafts on both input and output sides. I'm thinking if this heats up on a particular gear (looking at nobody in particular who likes to set cruise control at 95mph on a long motorway journey and just sit back) it could potentially warp it by a fraction of a milimeter which would be enough to start some irregular wear pattern. I'm no gearbox expert, but what are gearboxes rated at, peak torque input or sustained torque input? I'd imagine the sustained torque rating is possibly much lower than the peak rating due to heat buildup in bearings and the gears themselves

I'm still running stock power, soon to be ~175ish & 250nm with remap and 1.4 turbo, getting a knocking noise when coasting in 5th gear (doesn't do it when on the power), clutch makes an awful creaking noise when pressing/releasing the pedal. I get gear whine generally through most gears except 4th which is the quietest gear. 5th is by far the noisiest gear. Was looking for possible 6 speed upgrades (5 speed currently), but now i'm thinking it is needing a stronger box. I've only done about 25k miles on this gearbox too. Previous one started having problems around 42k miles. I kinda want to know what is actually getting damaged, and if a stronger component could be used instead of a whole new box? Anyway; I've looked about and the most appropriate box i can find to replace it with is the NJU box from the 1.4TSI, it's MQ350, so it'd be fine if you ever did a swap to a 1.4tsi block too. There's a similar box, QQR, but that is normally paired with the 1.8TSI, and may or may not have the same mounting holes as ours. The 1.2 and 1.4TSI engines should have the same mounting holes, so the NJU box *should* drop straight in. Edit: Might be a bit more hassle than originally thought, the clutch for the 1.4tsi is 240mm diameter, but only 220mm on the 1.2tsi. If the flywheel is a different size, that might be an issue, looking at that now. Edit 2: The 150ps 1.4TSI polo comes with a dual mass flywheel, the 1.2TSI only uses a single mass flywheel, so it's an unknown, but.. It looks like they should be compatible, they have the same tooth count, the friction face is recessed slightly on the DMF and raised slightly on the SMF, pointing toward them ultimately having the same distance from engine-gearbox. So it might be a straight swap keeping the original smaller clutch, or you might have to put on the full DMF and clutch kit from the 1.4 too. If you kept the smaller clutch and SMF, that'd leave you looking at the organic 4 paddle clutch from sachs, which from their cryptic text seems to have 380nm of torque capacity with stock pressure plate, and more with the performance pressure plate. It may be that you could get away with the performance synthetic clutch which supposedly around 240nm from what i can find. Their site is horrible!

Adaptation is via VCDS, i didn't do it on mine and i've never had a problem. The low down torque may improve once its mapped, but i cant say yet unfortunately, looking at 2 months from now before we'll find out. There is still decent torque low down from the 1400rpm but it takes much longer for it to come in. I find 1800rpm is where it comes in more readily. Another thing i have noticed is i now get a nice slight induction noise when on boost between 2000-3000 rpm, its still there beyond that but the engine noise drowns that out a bit, i'll assume thatll get louder once it's mapped, and maybe a tad more still once i get a new intake hose made up

I've had the larger turbo in for i think nearly 2 months now and still on stock 90bhp map. No limp mode, no problems, all been good. The only thing you'll notice at first is you'll lose a bit of low down torque (turbo seems to come in closer to ~1800 rpm instead of ~1400 rpm) and there's a little more lag, but that's to be expected from a larger turbo Can expect to see 170bhp from that turbo, the turbo is safely capable of 185-190bhp on the 1.4tsi engine, it can go further still given a bigger exhaust and intake too. It's your choice, ~130bhp without turbo swap, or ~170bhp with turbo swap, no other changes are required. Torque doesn't increase much from just a remap, it just holds that torque to much higher rpms as the turbo can hold the boost longer. The stock clutch can take the torque fine as long as you don't go doing redline clutch dump lauches and hard shifts everywhere, but that's the same whether it's stock or mapped. Next time i have a clutch done, i'll probably put in a uprated clutch, but its not necessary.

I'd imagine the clutch is fine then, is it an intermittent sounding rattle or is it reproducible and changes rhythm along with engine rpm?

What kind of RPMs are you pulling up hills with? Below 1400 rpm there's practically no torque (no boost). If you're hovering around the 1400 mark the turbo may be coming in/out so it can sometimes feel a tad surgy. I generally keep in whatever gear that gives me about 2000 rpm so i have full torque available and a bit of headroom in case of someone else struggling in front of me before having to downshift. What mileage do you have on your existing clutch? There's the dampening springs in the clutch plate which do a similar job to a dual mass flywheel (though the flywheel, single or dual mass, does the majority of the dampening), if those dampening springs are going, they can cause rattlilng under light acceleration at lower rpms. Other than that maybe a heat shield or something, otherwise i don't know of much else.

It could be the actuator itself, or it could be that carbon deposits have seized up the wastegate flap where it goes through from inside the exhaust housing to the outside where it connects to the actuator. Can't really tell which it is until you remove the actuator. The actuator is replaceable without taking the turbo off, but if it's the wastegate flap, then it's a new turbo job.

As far as i'm aware; The rear bumper/diffuser is different. The front splitter, side skirts and rear wing are all the same. Between facelift and pre-facelift; The side skirts and rear wing are the same. The front splitter and rear defuser are different. Might wanna double check that though.

Yeah, this is a Pre-Facelift Monte Carlo Estate (1.2TSI).

Thanks that's the PRQ box, mine has the 5 speed PED box. As far as i'm aware, the torque ratings are generally based off the clutch they are paired with. The 5spd is definitely MQ200, and is rated for 200nm (confirmed with my dealer some time ago when 5th gear failed in my old box), and the DQ200 (DSG) rated for 250nm. I'll have a good look into the PRQ box, see what it's rated for and what other engines its been paired with. I wonder if it's possible to put a larger clutch from the 1.4tsi (which supposedly use MQ250 boxes, but have been seen with 320nm and beyond when mapped), or if the clutch housing is too small for those (240 diameter vs 220) Edit: Reading around it appears the torque rating is the clutches rating, the gearboxes themselves can take a fair bit more. Between the engine/clutch/gearbox, the clutch is the weakest link. The PRQ box is a 02U type but is fundamentally the same as the 02T type PED box.

I'm curious to know as to how the camber plate even works in the Fabia, i'm guessing it requires fabrication with the strut tower? On another note, having seen that the 1.4 turbo could potentially bring me to 175bhp, it's made me think that i might possibly run out of gears if i tried to go for a top speed run. That, along with the fact i'm nearing a clutch replacement, and my usual cruising speed of 85 (yeah tut tut me 😂 ) ish starts to bring the engine up to rpms where it's a bit on the noisier side. Makes me think it might be worth trying to swap to a 6spd box. What are the prospects of a gearbox swap, from 5spd to 6spd? I know itd probably require some vcds adaptation for the dash indicator and such. Can someone with a 1.2TSI 110ps 6spd check what gearbox code they have? It's on the sticker in the spare wheel bay under the boot floor. Thanks in advance

The clutch should completely disengage when stationary. When you lift the pedal there's a split second before it starts to engage, you can feel it. You can cook it though by pulling the handbrake and releasing the brakes while keeping it in D, it tries to pull away, and if it doesn't stall out, it'll cook the clutch.

It's fine to go there and move it by hand, it's a big lump of metal, there's nothing your hand can do to damage it, unless you're the hulk or something! The fragile parts (the turbine etc) are all hidden away inside the housings and are basically unreachable unless you pull the exhaust or intake off completely. Just don't do it while hot! The exhaust side of turbos can easily reach north of 500c when driven spiritedly. I certainly wouldn't want to touch that! 😶😶😶😶😶 wowzers! I recently did a turbo upgrade (put a turbo from a 1.4tsi onto my 1.2tsi engine), the turbo cost me ~£125, a gasket set for ~£25, some tools and a few hours. There's no need for oil feed pipe, oil filter, or oil. Any competent mechanic should have it done in 2 hours tops. The 1.2tsi turbos are cheaper (i've seen some around the £75-100 mark, though i do question their condition). They use the same gasket set though. I have a spare turbo (in great condition) lying around doing nothing other than stopping a tea towel blowing away in my room, if anyone wants it, drop me a pm.

Is there a problem with DSG and having no stop-start? I found that stop-start on the DSG was far more effective, you stop, and so long as you have adequate pressure on the brake pedal, it'll shut off, the moment you start to lift pressure from the brake pedal, the engine starts up. If you only lightly brake as you come to a stop, it won't shut off, presumably as it expects you're about to set off again. To trigger it on the manual, you have to be stationary, put it in neutral, then release the clutch, handbrake isn't required, but if you're on a hill, it's probably a good idea, you shouldn't be holding the brake pedal anyway. As soon as you press the clutch in to put it in gear, it starts the engine up again.