FabiaGonzales

They might change the throttle response and such to try reduce it a little but idk how much it would help tbh

Yes, they unfortunately liked to crack pistons for whatever reason. Some engine codes worse for it than others. With the tuning on my 1.2 the issue kinda starts once it hits around 130bhp and gets worse the higher yiu go, the throttle closes off above 4.5k bringing power and torque back down with it. It hit 208bhp at around 4850rpm when doing the benchmark runs at 1.5bar+ But it drops right back to 130 after 5000 rpm. Its like theres some boost or throttle map thats interfering but isnt showing up

Yep, hybrid turbo to 230bhp for example, The big advantage of the 125ps 1.4TSI EA211 is that it is a drop in upgrade replacement for the 1.2TSI, same harness, same ecu, same everything pretty much. The 140/150ps versions have additional gubbins such as active cylinder disabling and the addition of variable valve timing on the exhaust camshaft (the 125ps 1.4 and the 1.2s only have vvt on the intake camshaft). Overall a lazy move from skoda (could have been an easy vrs model which would have sold well), but it does show how it's a valid option if your 1.2 lump blows up (at least thats how i see it with mine 😂 ) Unfortunate conclusion to yesterdays Turbo Tuesday, it's back to stock for the time being, as there's something wierd happening beyond the 4500 rpm mark, where beyond a certain boost level it closes off the throttle, the turbo's still trying to make boost and the ecu is still dumping fuel in as it goes mad rich at that point, it's just closing the throttle for whatever reason. The other thing being wierd is the wastegate actuator, cycling it with vcds it moves perfectly fine, but in practice there's a gap where it's goes from being open to just shutting off and sending boost to the moon, so that wasn't helping things. I'm swapping the actuator across from the old turbo, and the tuner is looking into the maps to see if there's something that's missing for whatever reason, perhaps there's a high rpm throttle map thats not showing up or something, who knows! So it's booked in for 3 weeks time on the 20th, at that time it'll probably be having the secondary cat removed, unless something else happens and i get a custom downpipe but thats on the less likely side of things 😂

I don't think so from what i can tell. JBS auto designs are doing a hybrid turbo for around 180bhp afaik

The hybrid 1.4 turbo should be a very sweet upgrade, probably around 200 mark, 1.3 bar is around the limit for a safe 24/7 map, the hybrid should hold it easily to high rpms, the ecu and sensor can do 1.5 bar boost but the torque that kicks out at lower revs is possibly just a bit too much. I'm surprised it hasn't torn through my clutch tbh 😂 It's costing me £400 in all, with £50 deposit then £350 on the day. Still here at the moment

Standard exhaust, standard intake, just a turbo swap. On an unrestricted run it peaked a tad over 1.5bar (its a 2.5bar map sensor) with 240ftlbs and 208bhp, that was a benchmark to see what's possible from the turbo. The engine wouldnt last with it like that 24/7 but its fine for a single pull. Backing it off a fair bit to around 1.3bar to keep things safe and seeing how it holds there, aiming for around the 175bhp mark.

Well, it's none other than turbo tuesday! Dyno run with stock map getting ~93 bhp and 135 ftlbs (1st pic) A few runs creeping up then an experimental run with the turbo at 100% racking in 188 bhp and 230 ftlbs (2nd pic) that's 311nm! Backing off a bit and finishing off the top end i think.. let's see how it goes! Edit: Just saw 200+ on a unrecorded run! Definitely don't think thats what is ending up with haha

I agree with both, i've driven in torrential rain on a motorway with rear tyres which had about 2mm tread left, and brand new tyres on the front. The rear of the car was incredibly floaty an felt like they were on ice, i drove accordingly though, gentlest turns and only braking if absolutely necessary as at that point anything could have sent the car sideways taking me with it off the road. I'd rather have had the new tyres on the rear, but as i'd just had the fronts changed and was already booked in to have those rears changed the next day (the tyre place didn't have the tyres i wanted in at the time and i had to wait a day), i didn't have much choice in the matter. Just bad timing.

Think you'd be able to get us a video? a few have posted about such intakes (including the questionably positioned forge one) but none have posted videos, it'd be nice to know what it actually sounds like

Polo 6R/6C so MK5 i believe.

If you're referring to the older 1.2TSI (chain driven, EA111 engine), the Fabia MK3 forum won't be of much assistance, you'd have more luck in the MK2 forum. Aside from that, have you ever had the chain tensioner, or perhaps the chain itself changed for any reason? I say this because timing chain stretch and tensioner failure is a known issue on those older 1.2TSI engines. I recently had the timing belt changed on my EA211 1.2TSI (the newer, belt driven version of the engine), it was mistakenly done whilst the engine was still hot resulting in about a 4 degree advancement on the exhaust camshaft. The ECU was able to compensate with the intake cam as it's variable valve timing and it was not enough to throw any errors, but when the engine was at low loads, it resulted in too much valve overlap, poor air/fuel mix, and heavy missfiring. They refitted it whilst cold, resulting in a 0.1 degree tolerance, and the engine is smooth as butter again.

I have 256mm discs currently, with the carrier built into the hub, i've a dodgey wheel bearing, so i'm going to build a whole new knuckle/hub and bearing assembly for each side, and refresh shock top mounts and ARB bushes and any other parts that need it at the same time. As basically nothing from the 256mm brakes is compatible, i bought a whole set of polo gti front calipers and carriers, they came with some nasty looking old pads in there and took a bit of cleaning up. I'll be doing a "refurb" on them by putting new guide pins, grease boots and dust caps in to make sure they're all good to go. I'm almost considering having them professionally refurbed, stripped and repainted, not sure yet though - they're already painted red, but are a bit scuffed around the edges. If you have 288mm discs, you just need the carrier bracket from the polo gti (safest bet, any other is a risk as the polo gti is a 100% fitment guaranteed), even the pads are fine too, though it's recommended to get matching new set of pads and discs at the same time. I'm not sure if i'm going to bother with dust covers (if i do, they'll be polo gti ones), what benefits do they offer over not having them? I've been keeping an eye out for the all black/red monte carlo seats (not the red/white/black ones). They should drop in fine and maintain airbag functionality. S1 seats should work too but may require repinning/rewiring connectors. If i'm feeling extra brave, i might look at a black head-liner, but f*** knows how i'd replace that!

None 😂 just the turbo swap, i'm looking at having a custom silicon hose built to replace the stock airbox-turbo pipes that have sound dampening stuff in them though. Looking at maybe having the secondary cat removed too. I've got a front suspension rebuild due, where i'll be putting some 312mm big brakes on from a polo gti that ive had for about a year.

My remap is finally booked in for the 29th of this month, with ADEdmundson, i'll update with results and dyno pics on the day, hype!! Expecting somewhere around 170bhp and 240nm torque.

Try taking the known good battery from the working fob, and put it in the currently non working fob, and see if there's any change. If it still doesn't work, then you know it's the fob, but if it does work, then it's just a **** pack of batteries. As i said before, i went through about 5-6 "brand new" CR2025 cells and a couple of CR2032s trying to find one that worked, i was only successful with one of each size and they only lasted a day or two, they were of differing brands energizer maxwell and panasonic, the only similarity between them was that they were all 5 years old (bought when my parents got a Yeti in 2014), despite being "brand new" and still sealed in their damn hard to get into packets, they were trash. They don't seem to last even being unused and still in the packet. Being "brand new" doesn't matter so much, it's the age that's important, if you go to buy some from a shop i.e tescos or whatever, make sure their expiry date is 2030 or at least 2029, that way you know they're fairly recent and probably good. Ordering online or even getting some from skoda dealership is a bit of a crapshoot because you dont really know what you're getting, i got lucky with Amazon, and that's probably not a bad bet either as they'll sell so many of them their stock will constantly be refreshed with new. I've had batteries from the dealership that've lasted barely a month.

If the light doesn't flash, the battery is dead. If pressing the buttons makes the light flash/flicker continuously, it's working but not in range of the car. What's the "expiry" date of the "new" battery you just put in? In the past i've tried using older (unused, still sealed in packet, but old) batteries and they either didn't work or worked for barely a day. Batteries generally have a 10 year "expiry" date, but all the rubbish ones that didn't work were around 4-5 years old, so they appear to fail well before their expiry date. Last december i bought a pack of 10 Duracell 2025's from Amazon, they were dated as being manufactured barely a couple weeks before my purchase and have an expiry date of december 2029, both keys have been good for about 10 months now without any warnings. So far i've not had to reprogram any key, despite one being dead for a good few months before it got a new battery, it usually took a few moments for it to pair up (helps being in range of the car while doing the battery swap) and start working again, but otherwise no hassle.

Yeah that's the soft limiter, can't rev past 4k at standstill. It also serves as a kind-of launch control, if you time it right as its about to hit 4k you can get a launch on full boost. Once it hits the limiter though it vents it all and it's not so good

As far as i'm aware, the Hatch and Estate are identical in terms of suspension components, the only difference being a heavier spring on the estate to compensate for the extra loading. hardrace do two variants of rear arb (a solid type with no drop links), one being softer than the other, both are 17mm though, whiteline do a floating one with drop links, i believe that's 22mm and probably should be paired with their front arb upgrade (which, if i remember correctly is 24mm). Polo MK5 (6R/6C), Seat Ibiza, and Audi A1 are also the same in terms of suspension parts. Parts from/for the Seat Mii (and VW Up, Skoda Citigo), are not compatible.

Perhaps my car had sports suspension on it from factory, though it didn't look any lower than any other Fabia i've seen on my travels. Edit: Forgot to ask, where did you get the B8s from?

I got my own car back this afternoon (though it has another issue it's going back for tomorrow), and it really took me by surprise how stiff the pre facelift mk3's are (i didnt notice any difference when i fitted the eibachs, other than it was lower and cornered a little flatter). The 1.0tsi ive had was insanely softly sprung, brakes were very gentle and progressive, alot of body roll in corners, and no engine noise, it also struggled cornering in the wet, with a tendancy to feel unbalanced and wobbly and squirm about. A stark difference getting back in mine with vibratechnics engine mounts, eibach springs. The 1.2tsi is kinda surgy with its turbo power delivery (mapping id guess), but revs drop nice and quick between shifts and every gear change is smooth as butter. There's a lot more engine noise though from the vibra mounts. Handling though is far more refined and tight over every road surface, and when cornering, it's ever so accurate and it's possible to feel what the car is doing, with an ever so slight tendancy to understeer if heavy on the throttle, and a slight tendancy to oversteer if off throttle and overzealous with the steering wheel, it's much more fun, i can feel how the car is handling and make corrections to it. The 1.0tsi was like driving a cloud, nice and smooth, but it has about the same handling characteristics, cant feel how the car is handling at all, just that it's sliding sideways and my steering and throttle inputs dont seem to be helping 😂

I've had a 1.0TSI 95PS for the past 3 weeks whilst my cars had it's gearbox replaced for the second time, and going back to my 90PS 1.2TSI it's quite noticeable, they definitely pulled it back at high rpm to get that low down. All that will change on the 29th though, as that'll be when it gets mapped to ~170-175bhp

True, but as a reminder to anyone present or future that happens to read it without checking their tyres first.

Be wary of doing this, some tyres are directional, having them the wrong way can have some rather nasty consequences. Mostly due to how the water clearing pathways in the tread is designed, so you might well find you aquaplane in very little water. On a side note, i had much success with Avon ZV7 tyres, A wet grip, B for fuel if i remember correctly, they're incredibly quiet and comfortable to drive on (those db ratings are roadside noise ratings from outside the car, a bit pointless if you ask me) I also found them incredibly grippy in the wet - almost on par with the Dunlops i have on now (i changed from 16" to 17" wheels).

Stock 16 inch rims are 16x7J ET46 with 215/45 R16 tyres. ET38 will fit though and if anything will look better. (Stock rims with 8mm front and 16mm rear spacers give an almost perfect look, and spacers effectively reduce offset, so ET46 with 8mm spacer = ET38) Eibach or KW springs are both a good choice, they look almost identical, though the build of the springs are different, the Eibachs are progressive to maintain more comfort on riugher roads, but stiffen up when pressing hard round corners. This does mean though with stock shocks they still have some of the floatyness as the stock springs at high speed. The KWs are linear and as such are more consistent in feel in all driving conditions, you lose some of the comfort on poorer roads, but you also lose the floatiness at higher speeds. Do note you could also pair either of them with Bilstein B8 shocks, this almost entirely gets rid of the floatiness with the eibachs and (in my opinion at least) improved handling and comfort on poorer roads. I couldn't tell you how theyll do with the KW springs though. Both spring options drop it to a tight two finger gap both front and rear. As for the rear springs, if you have a torque wrench and two axle stands you can easily do the rears yourself to save money, if you feel that way inclined. Took me about 20 minutes for the entire rear axle including lifting and dropping the car back down.

Hybrid turbos take the 1.4 up towards 230bhp with the stock injectors, it would seem they're plenty capable for the 1.2.