FabiaGonzales

The injectors from the 1.4tsi will fit, whether they're actually larger, i can't say. There are numerous part numbers used in the 1.2/1.4s with some of them being shared (possibly just the 122/125bhp variant of the 1.4).

Do note the AC does still run when the heat is on, it dehumidifies the cabin and stops it steaming up inside. I've always left the AC on. Unless you mean that pressing the button it won't turn off and always kicks out freezing cold air?

The parking sensor should be fine, there's a tonne of space behind the bumper before it'd hit anything, if you're unsure, start the car up, press the parking sensor button, get out and wave your hand near it, if you can hear it screaming, it's fine

I doubt we'll ever really know what they rate it as, maybe 200mn, or 200ft/lbs, to last estimated 150k miles or 20 years idk. Update #3 Well I found out what had happened with my gearbox, a cracked tooth on 5th gear wore unevenly eventually failed with a big bang, destroying the needle bearings that allow the gears to float on the shafts, letting what remained of 5th gear flail about and disintegrate. Luckily enough, since it's a new box which was originally replaced under warranty, it's covered under an extension of that warranty as a faulty replacement part, they mentioned it's normally 10k miles and 1 year, but being a manual gearbox, a failure at 15k miles and 18 months is not reasonable by any means! Side note, it's having its cambelt changed too (might aswell while it's gone), so ill be getting the car back hopefully mid next week.

Yep, the Fabia engine the same as the UP's, curious to know what they used, hybrid turbo? Or taking a leaf from our book and stuck a 1.5tsi turbo on it? 😂

What does "transferable torque" convert to in terms of engine/wheel torque? As far as i'm aware, it's the limit to the torque applied by the engine to the input shaft. Curious to know otherwise

Update #2 Spoke to the dealership this morning, the oil was clean, with all the parts of 5th gear contained in that little area away from the rest of the gears. Aparently it's not possible to just remove 5th gear (personally i think otherwise that it is possible though). They're doing a full strip down to see if there's similar damage to any of the other gears and to gather more information to try chase up warranty claims. On a side note, i've a 1.0TSI 95PS loan car, other than it having no rattles, not super impressed with it, CarPlay stutters (i'll grab the model number of the head unit this evening), the tyres are LOUD (15" nexen economy things), there's a lot body roll in cornering, the car pitches and dives heavily when accelerating and braking, the handbrake is poor (rear drum brakes instead of discs), the seats are somehow even less supportive, the engine isn't particularly refined, it's sound dampened to the point where you can't hear the engine till it's around 3500-4000 rpm (good for some i guess), and i keep finding myself in the wrong gear wasting petrol, though i still managed about 4 mpg higher over 100 miles. The accelerator response is very nice though, much quicker and smoother than the 1.2TSI i find. Otherwise, it's like driving my own car where someone did an engine swap, stole some features, and swapped my wheels and suspension with some rather soft alternatives. If all goes well with the gearbox and it's covered under warranty, the turbo will be getting mapped in shortly after, and i'll be looking at having a custom hose designed to replace the wierd plastic "manifold" piece between the air filter and the turbo, should help getting air into the turbo especially at high revs, and if i'm lucky, might give a tad more induction noise..

Yeah i'm still on the stock 90ps map, i was unable to locate a nearby garage that was willing or that could fit it in, so i've ended up taking it to my dealership, i'll see if i can get pictures from them if possible. With a bit of luck, it might even be covered under the extended warranty that the gearbox was originally replaced under. Only just made it to the dealership, it went with a big clang as i rolled up to a stop in the parking spot! If i do have it done under warranty, i might get them to put in that 4 paddle organic clutch thats rated like 380nm. Hopefully that won't slip 😂 The 6 speed has an extra pair of bearings that support the ends of the input/output shafts so the 5th and 6th gears are supported by bearings at both sides, whilst the 5 speed does not, it's hanging off the end basically, with extra load going through that one main bearing that would be supported by two bearings in 6spd box. My guess is that over time, sustained torque wears that bearing more with increased heat which contributes to more play on 5th gear, which then goes into a downward spiral of debris and metal in the oil destroying stuff worse.

Update on my gearbox: It's going into my local mechanic shop tomorrow to have 5th gear removed. It's well and truely died, within about 5 seconds 5th gear completely gave up the ghost and is unusable and parts of it are rattling around the box. I'll update again tomorrow with pictures of what's left of 5th gear once it's all extracted from the gearbox.

The earlier EA111 1.2TSI had a different turbo setup, where slight differences in manufacturing meant it could open too far and get stuck, the design of our turbos (and actuators) means that if something actually gets stuck, it's because of carbon buildup, the wastegate flap can open way further than the normal range and still shut easily (i've had one of the turbos off the car myself, having done an upgrade to a 1.4 turbo). The way i drive my car, carbon buildup is no concern at all, it's as clean and free moving as a brand new one straight out the factory 😂

It's just a bog standard turbo, there's no need (or way actually without taking off the coolant lines) to take the heat shield off to get at it, just have to reach around the back of the turbo.

After much difficulty trying to research turbo upgrade options for other members, I decided it's probably worth making some sort of list of turbos that can be bolted straight onto the 1.2 TSI. See the second post for a quick simple installation guide and other suggestions/advice. Which Turbo do I want? For some reason, despite them all being pretty much the same power, and all being used in what's effectively the same chassis, there's about 25 different engine codes and just as many different turbo models. It's quite a mess, so i've tried to organise them here. It's also just been made aparent that there's some variants (seems like any ACT ones) which use a different style of wastegate actuator, they're also made by a different company and have different turbine designs, they should all provide the same final power, but might have slightly differing boost characteristics. 1.2 TSI Turbos - Standard - The original turbo on your car should be one of these, unless your turbo died, there's no point buying these. 04E 145 721 L 04E 145 713 B 04E 145 713 Q 04E 145 704 T 04E 145 704 L 04E 145 704 N 04E 145 703 Q 1.4 TSI Small Turbos - Avoid - Same size as the 1.2 TSI but with different shaped exhaust housing, you won't see any gains with these. 04E 145 721 E 04E 145 721 R 04E 145 713 N 04E 145 704 F 04E 145 704 R 1.4 TSI Large Turbos - Avoid - Has an additional sensor on the exhaust housing, stay away unless someone confirms it's removable and fits. 04E 145 721 C 04E 145 721 G 1.4 TSI Large Turbos - Avoid - These have a different type of Wastegate actuator, stay away unless someone confirms it works. 04E 145 722 G 04E 145 721 P 04E 145 715 B 04E 145 715 D 04E 145 715 E 04E 145 715 F 1.4 TSI Large Turbos - Best Choice - Matching Wastegate and confirmed working by myself and others. 04E 145 721 B 04E 145 721 F 04E 145 704 C 04E 145 704 P Purchasing Options New turbos can be bolted straight on the day it arrives in the post, though they're incredibly expensive and will set you back potentially by more than £600. Remanufactured/Refurbished turbos are a cheaper alternative for an equally safe purchase, and are also good to bolt on the day it arrives, these go for usually around the £350 mark, sometimes some pop up a bit lower though. Used turbos are by far the cheapest option, but it's advisable to have it rebuilt. A used turbo will set you back around £100-150, having it rebuilt will cost you around the £100-150 mark, total cost roughly £250. When purchasing a Used Turbo If possible, collect it in person before commiting to the purchase so you can inspect it to ensure it is the correct part and that there is no damage. A damaged turbo can still be repaired, but a repair will set you back closer to £250-300. If there's any damage to either intake compressor or exhaust turbine, or if it does not rotate freely (be very gentle when attempting to spin it, it's very fragile), it's not worth your time or money. Use brake or carb-cleaner to clean out any oily residue (try not to get it in the oil channels, as you do want oil in those, but cleaning the coolant passageways is fine). But again, do not poke anything in the blades, they are easily damaged! I'd recommend to check a few turbo refurb companies for rebuild prices, then checking how much you can get hold of a turbo for, both used and refurbed, and proceed from there before actually purchasing anything. Disclaimer should you choose to install a used turbo without having it rebuilt or at least inspected by a professional: I advise against doing so, and I shall NOT take any responsibility for any damages incurred by YOUR actions. Turbos spin sometimes upwards of 250,000 RPM, the slightest of imbalance from any kind of damage, can result in catastrophic failure! This could potentially send metal shards through your engine, completely ruining your engine too! Just get it rebuilt already!!!

Is it bad I've nicknamed my car? Here she is, bone stock. Fabia SEL, 1.2 TSI, 90PS, 15 plate (MY16), with Colour Edition, Quartz Grey, 16" Antia wheels. That's about all there is to say at first. Except maybe that I removed the center arm-rest. Both mine and anyone in the passenger seat's elbows are much happer for it! Big plans ahead (Dream: IS38 1.8TSI conversion..)

I couldn't find any other threads, for the MK3 at least, with any reliable information about bolt-on larger upgrades for the brakes. So I set about finding some information. It seems that there is still a 288mm option officially listed for whatever reason (presumably just carried over from the MK2 VRS), but is not used in practice. Though, 288mm isn't a great deal bigger than 256mm that come as standard, I also found that the Polo GTI comes with 312mm brakes on the front. But what about the rear? Everything seems to use 230mm solid discs on the rear, except for the Polo R WRC, which comes with 254 mm brakes on the rear. 230mm is standard and boring, i won't bother with parts links here. 288mm front brakes are the largest possible brakes that can be used with 15 inch alloys though. 312mm front brakes are possible with 16 inch or larger alloys. 254mm rear brakes will fit 15 inch alloys, maybe even less, but ideally you only need this if you're going 312 at the front. You will also need to change the handbrake cable when upgrading to these. (possibly maybe able to re-use if you have discs on the rear already NOT SURE) These rear brakes may also have other minor complications, I've read you must change the settings with a scan tool for the ECU/ABS unit to handle the larger brakes properly. You can get away without changing anything if you only do the front brakes, but the rear brakes you can end up with braking imbalances from the front/rear. (or so i've read, at least) Part nos for 312mm Front Brakes PR Number: 1ZR Left Caliper: 1K0615123M Right Caliper: 1K0615124M Caliper Carrier: 6C0615125 Brake Pads: 8X0698151 Brake Disks: 6R0615301B Hose: 6R0611701D Catcar.info Link Part nos for 288mm Front Brakes PR Number: 1ZC Left Caliper: 1K0615123E Right Caliper: 1K0615124E Caliper Carrier: 6R0615125 Brake Pads: 5K0698151 Brake Disks: 6R0615301A Hose: 6R0611701E Catcar.info Link Part nos for 254mm Rear Brakes PR Number: 1KD Left Caliper: 1J0615423E Right Caliper: 1J0615424E Caliper Carrier: Struggling to find this! Brake Pads: 1E0698451 Brake Discs: 6R0615601A Hose: 1J0611775 Handbrake Cable: 6R0609721C (not too sure on this) Brembo Parts Page If anyone else has any good information please post it!

So a while ago, i was getting pretty bad engine rocking (sounded like the engine was going to drop out whenever the wheels spun up), and combined with my inexperience with how NVH works, i had the large rubber bush on the dogbone mount replaced with a poly one, the original had split and was allowing almost free movement back and forth. This was a huge hassle as the mount was damn near impossible to install with the new bush in place. Eventually i got it in. Instantly, huge vibrations at idle and below 2k rpm, but by heck the gear changes became absolutely beautiful and buttery smooth! Over time the mount bedded in and suchlike, it almost completely eliminated the wheel hop banging, now it just shuddered when the wheels slipped. I then noticed a slight split in the gearbox mount (the famous one known to squeak or fail), and replaced that with an OEM one designed for diesels, wheel hop completely gone! The wheels just slip and screech. The new gearbox mount also very slightly reduced the amount of vibrations that were going through the car, but after some time, i was given an OEM dogbone mount which like the replacement gearbox one, was designed for diesels. I fitted it... No wheel hop... No banging like the engine would fall out... and best of all... absolutely NO vibrations at idle! Clutch and gear changes are ever so slightly odd feeling, but i guess they will until i get used to it again, nowhere near as bad as original though. I have a feeling this was caused by the fact the bush is so large it was clamped too much by the subframe, restricting its movement too much. Below is a picture of the mount in question. The original black bracket must be used as the one for the diesels is slightly different. TLDR,; Don't put poly bushes in the dog-bone mount! Instead replace the gearbox mount and the dog-bone mount with the diesel counterparts; Diesel Gearbox Mount: 6Q0 199 555 AS (AR is original petrol one) Diesel Dog-bone Mount: 6Q0 199 851 AP (AS is original petrol one)

It's done it since ive owned it (coming up to 3 years), but ive not noticed any other cars doing it. Basically when i pull away, sometimes the exhaust note changes for a moment and it's quite loud compared to its normal tone. It's almost as if momentarily something was bypassing the silencer, very low loud noise, seems to mostly happen between 1k to 1.4k rpm, and more often when cold. anyone else get this? anyone know what it is?