FabiaGonzales

If the ECU has trouble moving the wastegate and sees overboost, itll go into limp mode to protect the engine. It doesn't outright rev limit to say 3k rpm like other cars, but it pulls ignition timing to the point where it's not making any power (and therefore no boost). It's still drivable, but not fast at all. It struggled getting to redline in 1st gear when i was going uphill it's that weak. When the engine is cold it runs rich in order to heat the engine and catalytic converter up quickly (to reduce emissions), but this does have the downside of coking up the exhaust side of the turbo if the car is only ever used for short journeys. (Presumably what happened to that low mileage poor condition turbo i originally had). If you have extended warranty, that kind of thing should be taken care of by that. If not, last ditch effort would be to try getting gt-85 in there and giving it a really good excercise by hand until it feels nice and free, then taking it out for a sprint. If that doesn't cure it, it'll be down to replacing the entire turbo (probably easiest & cheapest option, given these turbos are fairly cheap second hand, and a gasket set can be got for as little as £25), or taking it off and trying to clean it out (in which case, you'll need a new gasket set anyway, and at that point, you may aswell spend the little extra on another turbo and fully cure it once and for all).

That's amazing, can't wait to have mine mapped! You linked to a hybrid turbo designed for the 1.4TSI, you won't see 240bhp on the 1.2tsi, you'll get around 210 ish i reckon. Do note though going much past 200bhp can have a detrimental impact on the longevity of the engine. I'd say 200bhp is as far as you should go unless you want to do piston/rod/valve ugprades.

The battery will charge constantly at a normal rate up to about 75-80%, after that, it only charges on overrun (while the wheels are spinning the engine - i.e decelerating in gear). If you disconnect the monitoring connector on the -ve terminal of the battery, it defaults to the old style standard charge mode, where it'll charge at a steady rate until 100%. If you still get issues after a good drive like that. Get one of those 12v socket phone chargers with voltage reading. If the battery is dropping a significant voltage overnight then there could be an issue with the car or the battery. There was a software update a couple years back related to power management, might be worth contacting the dealer to see if that's been done. That supposedly helped fix some power drain issues from components not shutting off correctly.

The limp mode is weird on the Fabia, it has pretty good power till about 3000 rpm then it tails off into nothingness past then but it's not rev limited like others (i deliberately put it in limp mode by disconnecting the wastegate connector). It's possible that there's rust and/or carbon built up to the point where it's gotten really solid and isn't recoverable, in which case a new (second hand) turbo would probably be more time and cost effective than rebuilding the actuator and de-carboning the turbo etc. For a last ditch effort to get it freed up, get some GT-85 up into the mechanism and the hole where it goes into the exhaust housing? (ive put 2 pictures below of where i mean) I'm not sure how much WD-40 would do there vs GT-85, but it might help free it up at least. GT-85 is a few quid at Halfords if you don't have any, and you can use it on just about anything. It's not easy to reach as it's all down the back of the engine, but it is doable, it's underneath the heatshield at the back of the engine, don't do it while hot, you should be able to reach over behind the heat shield and feel where you need to spray the GT-85 (or whatever you decide to use). To try get it moving, the shaft of the actuator should pull towards the left, and *should* return back closed under its own tension. It's not the easiest to move even when it is nice and free, since it's geared so the little servo/motor or whatever it is in the actuator mechanism is able to hold back however many psi of backpressure there is against the wastegate. On a side note, the turbo pictured below is available - should anyone want a carbon free turbo with 65k miles on it, drop me a pm (from a EA211 1.2TSI).

It seems its a specific issue with *Apple* CarPlay, android phones use android auto, so they won't have any issue as it's not carplay. As you mentioned i haven't had the stuttering issue others have encountered. However i occasionally run into an issue where the phone and head unit will fail to connect ("connecting via carplay", "connection failed") repeatedly. That's always fixed by doing a full restart of both the head unit and the phone, though rebooting just one or the other sometimes is enough.

Yes that's right, though you can simply just move them to the root of the drive, the navigation system will look for the maps folder and work from there. It was the same when i updated the head unit firmware, i had to put the sub folders onto the sd card only, otherwise the head unit wouldn't pick it up.

Try taking the maps folder and 1410_MPxxxxxxx stuff out of that main folder into the root of the drive. It had to be like that when updating my head unit firmware.

Mine is like in this image; There's a newer version with different buttons & voice control;

Knowing how sensitive Apple devices are to certain peripherals (cables, chargers, etc) it wouldn't surprise me. I'll get an image at some point of the unit in my car, but it's the larger display, no navigation but it has full android auto/apple carplay support. 2016 SEL with most options.

My Fabia hasn't had a problem either since day one. My guess is it's a quality control issue moreso than a problem specific to Fabias only. (Personally i suspect its an electrical noise/interference issue)

What do you mean by "rep" VW wheels?

There is indeed an alarm when you have ignition off, lights on, and door open. I've had screaming at me a few times when deliberately leaving my sidelights on when parked in a less than optimal place. For me it serves more as a reminder to turn it off when i get back in later.

They're about 585 i think on dpmperformance (edit: fixed spelling) Here's a link to them on that particular site https://www.dpmperformance.co.uk/car-parts/skoda/fabia/st-x-by-kw-coilover-suspension-kitfabia-nj-20152019-10-12tsi-14tdi

ST X by KW coilovers are highly regarded (i'm personally going the Eibach + B8 route, already have the springs, not fitted yet though). They are exactly the same as KW v1's except they are galvanised steel rather than stainless steel. So they're slightly more prone to rust.

I have first hand experience with two similar turbos, the first was pulled from a car with 14k miles, the second had 46k miles, both vehicles of a similar age (2016 ish). You'd expect that the 46k turbo would have more carbon buildup, but rather the opposite was true, the 14k turbo was heavily "coked" up, the wastegate was stiff and there was a fair bit of side to side play in the shaft. The 46k turbo however, was almost perfectly clear of any carbon, some white heat marking on parts in the direct flow of the exhaust gasses (turbine, wastegate etc), and the wastegate was smooth in operation with only very minor play in the shaft. This was down to difference in driving style and usage, with only 14k miles in 4 years clearly that car never really went far, probably rarely got fully up to temperature and sat for extended periods. The 46k mile one was a slightly younger (66 vs 16 plate) but had clearly driven much more and harder in its shorter life. Modern cars run rich on cold start in order to get the catalytic converter up to temp fast and keep emissions down, but this does have a side effect of coking up the exhaust side of the turbo if it's only used on short trips where the engine never really gets fully up to temperature, and never gets any significant amount of wide open throttle usage. The other issue with it coking up is that because the wastegate is internal to the exhaust housing of the turbo, the carbon buildup can seize the wastegate shut, especially if the car is never driven hard enough for it to open, that's what causes the codes and may cause it to go into limp mode, where it'll have low power, and won't really pull beyond 2500-3000 rpm, also while in limp mode start-stop is non-functional. If it does come down to it, i do still have the original turbo from my 1.2 (i put a turbo from a 1.4 onto mine, for more power than just a standard remap), pair that along with a gasket set (£30 ish) and couple hours of labour to fit it (cost dependant on garage), it's a much cheaper option than £1400 from the dealer! It's possible to do yourself, but i'd not recommend it unless you're really wanting to save even more money or you have decent experience with mechanical repairs, i did manage it myself but it took a fair bit longer than i expected.

ADEdmundson will fit the turbo and custom tune it for you, they quoted me £400 for the tuning alone (i already fitted my turbo, but i'm not mapped or anything so it's all good), i'd send them a message (they're on Facebook) and see what they can offer you.

Yes to take advantage of it, i'd be wary about putting it on without mapping it though, stock 90/110 boost is that low it isn't a problem running the bigger turbo without mapping, but i don't know how itd handle when remapped to begin with.

Honestly, i think most of the comments are missing the point, OP *seems* to be asking if we think it's an issue with his tyres or the car itself. OPs Issues: 1. They're struggling for grip in the wet. 2. They have miss-matching less known tyres on the front. My comments on these issues; 1. Unless the alignment is out (which i'd assume they'd have had done after the pothole), it's most likely down to the tyres. 2. The front is the important axle, most of the load goes through the front tyres, braking, steering, accelerating, almost all of that is through the fronts, you want the better tyres at the front. Continuing on that; The 16" wheels OP has already, are a good compromise between good handling and good ride quality/comfort, going down to a 15" with 185 width tyres is less rubber contact, less grip, that's not going to help OPs issue. The Dunlops (i'm assuming SP Sport Maxx) are among the better ones in terms of grip and handling, so there's no need to change them really. Ideally, you want the same tyres on all 4 wheels, failing that, you want a good matching pair on the front. So that leaves two main options; Swap the fronts and rears over, so the grippier dunlops are on the front, where they matter. Replace the existing fronts with new dunlops, so OP has matching tyres on all corners. OP can sell on the part-worn ones to make a little money back. Final consideration; Roads *can* *sometimes* be quite slippery when first wet after a long dry spell. I don't know what the weather's been like leading up to OPs incident, but that could play a role. New tyres don't necessarily grip well "straight out of the box", the tyre may be coated in something to preserve it in storage (like some brake discs are) or just to look pretty, the very first time I had my front tyres changed, i almost went into the middle of a roundabout from spinning the wheels up trying to pull away quickly and understeering badly.

The main thing imo is having matching tyres on front and back, to have overall balanced grip and improved handling and feel. The other thing i'd suggest is having your steering alignment checked. If the toe is off, that won't help steering. Make sure it's a place with a laser machine though. I ran my tyres at 33psi with the 16", and 35psi with the 17" (to try to protect the alloys a bit more). Since you have missmatching tyres, you want the better pair of tyres on the front, they're what does the steering, puts the power down, and most of the braking. If you start to lose the rear end, you can accelerate (or countersteer in extreme cases) out of it relatively easy. If you're understeering, you have to let off the loud pedal, that itself can upset the balance of the car and can make the rear end swing out, then you need to press the loud pedal, and if you're still cornering too hard you might lose the front again, it's not too pretty, done it myself on a roundabout, ended up in a different lane.

The 1.0TSI is a very nice engine to have, it doesn't feel weak by any means, unless you're coming from a 2.0TDI or something. The 1.0TSI can be taken to 130bhp+ with a remap, providing as good power and torque as the 4cyl 1.2TSI but with better economy. It also sounds like a small v6, it has a very pleasant thrum to it, especially when pressing on in the rev range a bit. It's a very satisfying drive. I had a 1.0TSI monte for a day as a courtesey car, and own a 1.2TSI SEL which i run daily.

I got £200 for a set of 16" black wheels, Antia style, 3 were scuffed up from potholes and curbs. These being silver, and only 15", i can't imagine they'd be worth a whole great deal i'm afraid. 100-150? If they were in good condition then closer to 200. Almost worth keeping them with a set of winter tyres on.

Sounds like someone put the wrong fitting in at the factory!

I certainly will, unfortunately i'm a bit strapped for cash at the moment, unexpected £800 household repair (oven exploded and damaged much of the kitchen including a TV - just glad it wasn't a gas oven!). I'm interested to hear myself from anyone else too, then i'll know what to look forward to

When everthings only freshly warmed up the lower gears (2/3) do seem to pull better than after some spirited driving. I always ensure oil is at very least around the 75c mark (coolant needle already at 90c long before that point) before i go for it. I'm not sure if it's it making less power without boost when cold, so the boost coming in hits harder, or when it's warm it's pulling timing because charge air temps are higher. Ultimately doesn't seem to make too much of a difference though. As for full throttle without lifting, longest i've done that for is about 10-15 miles, about 5-7 minutes at the speeds i was doing, at that time, in winter oil temps never went past 106c, now it's summer i can see them as high as 109c, never seen 110c though. Coolant needle never changes from 90c though, wish there was a way to change it to show actual coolant temps.

They look nice! I think the stretchedness will prevent any chance of rubbing, you'll probably gain a bit more comfort from that much stretch too haha Are you still on just Eibach springs? Can't remember if you'd changed anything up. Got a set of Eibachs sat waiting to go on when ive got a bit more money and time, and a big turbo stuck on my engine waiting to be mapped in 😁 expecting 160+ from it.