Alasdair1

16555 is fuel mix too lean basic checks would be air intake leak/vaccum leak etc or fuel filter blocked. Could also be failed or leaking intake manifold gasket. Not sure if theres an in tank filter? I have had one break free on another car and float about causing air getting into fuel. Only did it when tank was less than 1/4 full. Alasdair

I agree wwith checking wiring etc especially as stated the small wire going to starter. I have had that problem a few times over the years. I get my batteries from Tayna batteries. Half the priceI could get it locally and their delivery service was excellent.

I would get the car scanned for fault codes. If I remember a flashing glow plug symbol is a problem with engine management. It can put car in limp mode or if its a majorfault the car may just stop. Check the connections/wiring at the MAF sensor and get it scanned to see if it pings anything related up. Alasdair

Could be the ignition switch failing? Read on here recently someone with similar problems. Car would randomly not start.Their garage bypassed the ignition switch with a button on a temp measure until they got a new one. Alasdair

Got a bit of snow today but not much. Hope the train gets through. The line was closed from perth to inverness due to flooding last week but not sure if its open again. We are on the Wick line from Inverness and I think its the same. Landslips and flooding etc. Havent heard any trains in the last few days. Alasdair.

If theres a small plastic cap then I assume its the original door card as my sons 06 plate doent have the plastic cap. You may be right that the motor was somehow retrofitted but hopefully the original mechanism is still there minus the door winder it might be an easy convert. When you get back I would remove door card and have a look. Its -2C in inverness today with sunshine if your heading north but no snow. Alasdair

I was going to try and convert my sons from electric to manual as his window controller failed plus the regulator totalled itself. If I remember correctly the door panel is different as well as the internal door plate. If yours had add on electric windows fitted then the manual fittings may still be behind the card. Is there any sign of where a manual winder would have been on the door card?

I think your right 6Q1 is LHD and 6Q2 is RHD. Theres a lot on ebay from eastern europe. If the rack is leaking then It looks like a replacement or exchange as it would be an instant MOT fail these days. My folks had the same but the estate version and had no problems with the car at all apart from a new clutch and a few bushes etc. It had done 90000 when our postie managed to drive into the side of it and it was written off. Alasdair

90mA is a bit high but could be quite normal depending on whats fitted to car. probably caused by alarm or something thats on even when ignition is off like clock etc. Have you tried reading for fault codes? If its the heater plugs it may show up something. I have had one short out on me in the past. I would as said check earths. If ones coroded or poorly connected then it could cause low voltage when under load and vary depending on how wet/frozen it is. Electrical problems are a nightmare. Other option is to start removing fuses and try and see whats causing the drain. Had an old volvo with a bad backup battery for alarm that was drawing 150mA until it decided to burn itself out. Took me a while to work that one out. It was the same fuse as the clock on the dash.

When its being jump started does it turn over at normal speed or is it slow. It could be a faulty starter motor. I had one that the coils were failing and it was only turning engine over about 1/2 speed which was too slow for my old diesel merc van. It would just manage if there was an extra battery involved but wouldnt start when cold unless it was jumped. If your battery is only about a year old I would take it back or get it checked as its probably still under waranty. Check earth connections and battery terminals as well.

Local scrap yards etc or ebay but perhaps paint badges the same colour as car? Alasdair

I agree had same in my sons fabia. Starts first time ok then stopped at garage and battery flat. His is petrol but diesel would take more current. Read 12v when charged up again then after starting pretty flat again. Seemed to be charging ok on car with no warning lights etc and took full charge with charger. New battery and its fine now.

Could be a sticking starter motor/solanoid. My daughters old beetle used to do this if it was left for a while. Think it was the starter engaging but not releasing fully. If I remember it was a fairly common problem with the early new shape beetles. Alasdair

Is the drop in revs when moving car in reverse or when stationary with foot on clutch and do the reversing lights work.

This happened on my old 1.9tdi. DPF light on but dim plus engine manag light ABS and a few others but all dim. I didnt have a DPF on the PD engine so I reckoned wiring/connector/earth so removed dash cluster and cleaned/reconnected connector and it was fine after that. It could also be a failing cluster due to bad solder joints. If removing cluster disconnect battery first and leave for a while. If theres power to the dash it can set of the imobilizer as I think the cluster is coded. Check cluster for any signs of broken circuit or bad solder joints. Not too bad a job to remove. If its the cluster I think its around £150 to get it pofesionally repaired. Alasdair

Could also be a dry solder joint in cluster. Some of the MK2 octavia were prone. When I removed mine I noticed a small section of it had been repaired. Had a couple of wires by passing a section of the circuit board. Give it a good check over with a decent magnifying lens. Alasdair

Drivers side window motor unit controls both passenger and drivers side windows. My sons failed and no windows. Nightmare as I had to drive home in -5 with drivers side down on slushy roads. Was frozen soild and even had ice in my hair. Got it fixed/exchanged by someone on here but can't remember off hand. Its normally a couple of components within the unit that fails. If you order a second hand one a lot of the units sold on ebay are for LHD cars and won't be the same. Think from memory they have the same part number but the RHD ones are 6Q2***** not 6Q1***** It could also be the wiring that comes through the door. The cables have been known to break. I would check continuity of cables first but does sound like the window motor/controler Just remembered. Breezy_Pete fixed mine. It was about a year ago so not sure if he is still repairing. Alasdair

Could very well be the connector at rear of dash. Thats where I would start. Had an Octavia that did the same. I pulled dash and cleaned and recconected connector. It did seem to be partly disconnected when I removed cluster but that could have been me. It was fine after that. Not sure on the Fabia but on Octavia dash is coded and you have to remove battery before removal as it can imobize car. Better to be safe than sorry. Alasdair

I would perhaps try another battery or if you dont want to buy one then jump start? The 1.2 doesnt need much to turn it over at all but the electrics may struggle if the voltage drops too much especially when cranking. The starter will take most of the power and cause a further drop in voltage If your getting a spark it may be that the coils work at a lower voltage. Other electrical parts like relays,injectors etc may need more. You mentioned 9.2 volts which is pretty low. It would crank engine at 9.2v but electronics etc are probably looking for10v-12v min. My Octavia diesel dash is like a christmas tree when trying to start with a low battery. Hope its just the battery and you get it sorted.

For some reason there are two part numbers on it. Look under Germany there is the part number I found online. 6Q0711202. I repaired mine by drilling out broken shaft and using a carriage bolt the same diameter. I managed to tap the bolt home to secure it with the square section and at the same time glued it with two part araldite. I used a nyloc nut when fitting it back in car. Tightned it then slackend off just enough to get it to turn. I did get a replacement eventually but the repair is still on the car. You maay have to drill out the broken shaft slightly larger than the thread to get the square section to tap in.

I had the same with an old seat. Sat for a few months and turned green inside. I stripped out mats and carpets that could come out and put an electric heater in it with the windows just open to dry it out. I then hoovered as much as I could and treated with a spray of diluted vinegar let dry and then more hoovering wiping down. Stunk for a while but cured/killed mould. Seat belts were the worse but I pulled them out as far as they would go and power washed them on the outside of car. I have a few paacks of the silica gel packs for damp houses in it now as its not being used. Think I got them from either B&Q or poundland. Alasdair

Are you sure the part number is correct from the original? I had a look on line and came up with 6Q0711202 for MK2. Not sure what model or gearbox you have? I found this online with links to Skoda Etka. Look under pedals then 711-030. https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares Its easy to mistake 3 for 2 on some of the parts. Alasdair

The part number on ebay etc pings up an input and output speed sensor for about £30-00 per pair. These are aftermarket so not sure of quality but for £30-00 its a lot less than even 1/2 hour labour at garage. Would be worth trying a replacement pair. Even if you could find a replacement box with low mileage etc as the garage is suggesting its going to cost a lot of money to get them to swap them over plus most breakers give you about six months guarantee if you are very lucky. I would start as Pete says by checking wiring and connections to sensors and perhaps order a pair and try them. Looks like theres only one bolt holding them in. Alasdair

I would replace speed sensor. Not sure where on an autobox but the manual box is on top toeards the rear of car between drive shafts. There not expensive. Around £15-00 for my mk1 1.2 fabia.

Had this on a Seat altea but same engine I think. 1.9tdiBXE Used to go into limp mode with same error code randomly. Clear code and it was fine for a while then back. Cleaned EGR valve etc which was full of gunge and checked vaccum operation Cured it for a while then it came back. Got a second haand vaccum control unit and checked all vaccum pipes but no difference. Finally found a small black vaccum valve on EGR cooler at rear of engine that was sticking. Not the easiest to get to but managed without having to remove cooler. Alasdair