Alasdair1

Check the voltage on battery when stopped. It should read 12.5 -12.8v. If it starts it should be 13.7-14.7v. It could be a failing alternator or the exciter wire is broken so alternator not charging battery some of the time (thin wire going to alternator) which would explain battery light. If the battery is low it may be why the car doesnt start randomly as electronic systems are very susceptible to low voltage unlike the starter motor which will turn at lower speed even if voltage is low and cause a big voltage drop. Also check battery terminals are good and not corroded and also earth points. Alasdair

Have a look at MOT history. When we were buying a car for our son its amazing how many failed on bald tyres etc which can give you an idea if its been looked after. How many owners has it had. Maybe first followed service intervals and second didnt bother or an independent garage did the work once out of warranty and didnt fill in book etc. If its a private sale ask the seller what garage they used and ask the garage. If its a dealer and you intend to buy it I would get them to do the timing belt as part of the deal. Alasdair

I take it you have had it since new or low mileage and at 8k I would not expect corrosion or wear that would warrant a disc change unless the caliper is either defective or pads are sticking in carrier. I assume it was a dealer if its under warranty that did the work plus you mention one disc was replaced. Its normal and safe practice to replace in pairs. If it is a defective seized caliper it should be covered by warranty and because it caused damage to disc maybe disc should also be covered. If the pads had seized in carrier I doubt it would be covered Alasdair

Check that there are still antiroll bar bushes in there. It sounds like metal on metal. It might be worth getting someone under car and do the same to see if they can pin point it. In the past I have driven onto a high kerb and crawled underneath and got a mate to bounce car. Check also that the nuts for the drop links havent come loose as well. Alasdair

Reckon its just bad luck. Only windscreen that went on me was on an old Fiat 131. Old school non laminated one that exploded into little bits. Scared the **** out of me. Saw the big stone come out between lorry wheels in front of me and bang. It could maybe be the angle of windscreen or perhaps they are being made thinner these days to lighten car that makes them more prone to cracking. Hope as you have had two go you wont have any more for the next 500k at least Alasdair

On my old Seat which may be the same as its VAG there were two ways. First open locked car manually with lost sync key. Leave door open and turn on ignition but dont start. Leave for 10 secs (maybe a bit longer?) Remove and close door then try to lock with fob. The other way was to unlock car with bad key and keep in the unlock position for around 10 secs then remove and try to lock car with fob. As the bad key will start car the transponder chip is ok but it may be the actual transmitter in key thats failed Hopefully someone on here will have another option if the above doesnt work. Alasdair

If according to skoda Mann are approved go with them. Alasdair

To be sure maybe ask skoda what brand they will be ok with. Pretty sure its Mann rebranded with skoda part number but worth asking Alasdair

I reckon you will have to get VW/Skoda parts either from dealer or from https://www.skoda-parts.com/ or similar to preserve waranty. They normally have to be genuine Skoda and not aftermarket oem. Mechanic friend had a Kia and they allowed him to service it himself but had to get all service parts from Kia to keep waranty valid. Alasdair

If yours is 1.9tdi BXE engine or similar there is a black plastic vacuum valve on EGR cooler at rear of engine below/near EGR valve. My old Seat with same engine used to put EML on and code was insufficient flow. I cleaned EGR but randomly would still come on. The plastic valve was sticking. looks like this It could also be the egr cooler is choked. I also had problems with random warning lights coming on and no codes and it turned out to be cluster needed removing and contacts cleaned then reseated. Worked it out when DPF light came on and theres no DPF. Alasdair.

Wonder if you could remove matrix hoses and join together to bypass it? Alasdair

You might be able to access it by removing gearstick bellows/cover. I assume if its dropped through though something has broken. Alasdair

Found this on an old post. You need two keys. 1. Switch Ignition ON and leave the key in the ignition. 2. Mechanically lock the vehicle from the Drivers door using the key to be coded. 3. Using the remote control press the Unlock button once, and the horn will sound once. 4. Wait 6 seconds and press the unlock button once to activate the coding procedure. The remote control should now be programmed. Have never tried it but worth a go Alasdair

By doing a rolling start if the bendix is not returning and stuck in a semi out position it will still chatter. The click you hear is likely it moving but as said if it isnt returning completly it may be still slightly engaged. Reckon you will have to get an 18mm socket and get the starter checked. Alasdair

Try the sparkplug socket if you have one. My Seally set doesn't have 18mm normal but has one for a sparkplug. Alasdair

It may be engaging ok as the car obviously starts but not retracting enough to clear ring gear teeth. Have had similar problems in the past. Don't run the car at all until its checked and also the ring gear itself. It could be a sticking solanoid/bendix. Last thing you need is to replace flywheel. As said take it off and check its returning properly. If it is not then get in touch with mechanic who fitted it. It may just need lubricating or perhaps a new solanoid/bendix. I assume you have checked that bolts are all tight and secure? Alasdir

No not on my 1.6tdi and also my older 1.9tdi. It does look vulnerable to damage where it is but needs airflow for cooling. Hope its just a hose connection. Alasdair

Not sure on the MK3 but my 2012 mk2 FL CAYC I think has an auxiliary water pump. From memory its electric. If it has failed or blown a fuse it may explain slight temp rise. The rad fan running after stopping car is on mine due to short runs and failed DPF regen. On mine the idle speed is around 950rpm when regen and drops to 750rpm once completed. If I do a short run and notice the increased idle speed I try to keep going for a longer one till revs drop to normal. If I cant the rad fan comes on after car switched off. Alasdair

Think its a fuel cooler for returning diesel to tank. To remove you will probably have to remove plastic under trim. It may not be it that is leaking but perhaps one of the pipes to or from it. Alasdair

Try penetrating oil instead of wd40 or personally I use a 50/50 mix of ATF and Diesel. Much better at soaking through rust/crud and keep repeating for a good few days. Find WD40 tends to evaporate before it can soak in especially if its seized solid. Once free lubricate as said with lithium grease etc. Alasdair

Same on mine. Rear ride height was slightly off for ages. Only noticed when I broke a spring and discovered two different makes. One original and the other ??? If the yellow one is original it will probably be weaker. Alasdair

The relay is I think marked 645 and is third in from left hand side under steering column but the photo looks like LHD so may be different. Alasdair

That may be the way to go depending on how much they want for the engine. You will probably need vcds to code it etc. You could always take the head off anyway off the old one first as it may be just the gasket. If its cracked either take head of other engine or as you said drop complete engine in. Depending on how many miles the car is done maybe factor in a clutch change at same time depending on condition and if its an internal slave do that as well. On a temp basis you could chuck a bottle of steelhead in and see if it improves. Alasdair

I would change relay and try again. If the grinding noise is still there then its probably a defective starter. Check with the mechanic who did it to see what warranty it has. Most will have 12mnths or 12000 miles so unless you have done major journeys in 7months should be covered. Don't mention you swapped relay and they may replace the starter free of charge but you may still have to pay for labour. Alasdair

It may be possible for dealer to pull up code. Had similar in older volvo. Took v5 to show vin and serial number of radio and they got it for me. If locked one isnt from your car you could always take the original in and explain its to replace it. Alasdair