Alasdair1

Think the yeti uses electromechanic steering so no fluid. Could be a dodgy wheel sensor, steering angle sensor or as simple as low battery. Did the ESP come on as well? best option is to get it scanned with vcds to see if there are any stored codes. Alasdair

Got GT radial FE2 on mine and excellent in dry and wet. Seem to be lasting well too. When I got them if ordered online through local tyre service got discount £15 off for two and £40 for four. From memory they were around £85 each. Sons got GT all season and again excellent tyre. Alasdair

Randomly my octavia used to crunch from 1st to 2nd. I put it down to me being a bit quick with changes but eventually pedal went to floor and master was leaking. As said keep an eye on fluid level in case its leaking somewhere. Alasdair

If fluid was low and disenaging clutch and re engaging helps with gear changes it might be a leaking master/slave cylinder or the seals on either are going and allowing fluid to pass them when engaging clutch so clutch isnt engaging fully. Monitor fluid level and check at base of Gearbox/engine join for signs of fluid. The master on my octavia failed but the fluid ended up on undertray. It could also be the gear linkages need lubricated as you said and also might be worth resetting cables. As its had a fluid change and no improvement I assume theres no air in clutch system. Meant to ask did the clutch pedal come back up on its own or did it need lifted with toes. Alasdair

Hopefully its cured problem. Did read they need coding and 140 euro doesnt seem too bad considering garage prices these days. Glad you got it fixed Alasdair

Should be behind a panel at end of dash drivers side between door and dash. Access when door is opened. There is a panel that clips in place. Careful removing so not to damage spring clips. https://www.startmycar.com/gb/skoda/octavia/info/fusebox/2012#anchorfusebox3 The above link I think is your car. Fuse 35 Alasdair

When the alarm backup battery fails it can leak and cause damage to circuit boards which can trigger alarm randomly. On a temp measure to silence it you could remove fuse for backup battery. It would stop the siren eventually once it goes flat. Indicators will probably still flash but at least it wont annoy neighbours. From memory its fuse 35 either 5amp or 20amp

It may be the alarm siren backup battery thats failing/failed or also check the voltage of the car battery. My old donor cars go off when the battery gets a bit low. Try hoovering the sensor in roof. Think its near the interior lights. Sometimes a build up of dust or in my case a small spider was setting it off. Think the siren is rh front wheel arch under plastic cover. Alasdair

Found similar in cluch kits Bought an LUK kit and it had a valeo clutch disc. I would have thought that as INA are a premium bearing manufacturer they would use their own unless they also now make them for Gates and you got one branded for Gates . Reckon a lot of companies supply each other with parts and are rebranded to suit Alasdair

It depends on if they are made to oe standard or not and what factory they came from. Have had a few chinese parts over the years and some were excellent copies while others very poor. Problem is telling which is good or not as they generally look ok. Cylinder head for old toyota lucida which was excellent and a fraction of cost of toyota. Replaced a honda GX200 engine with a Loncin and they are identical. Even honda parts fit and have had no trouble. Got chinese carb for chainsaw and wouldnt run due to one of the fuel ways not been drilled out. Reckon with a dif I would be looking at second hand or at least a reputable supplier that you have some come back if it fails.

Had a quick look on wikipedia and if its a MK2 caddy it had a choice of four diesel 1.9 two N/A and two Tdi. I pulled this from AI 1. The 1.9 SDI Engine (Engine Codes: AEY, AYQ) If you have the electronic direct-injection model, your truck uses a Bosch VE VP37 electronic distributor pump. [1, 2] How it works: This pump relies on an Engine Control Unit (ECU) to electronically manage fuel delivery, timing, and throttle response. Common Part Numbers: Look for Bosch 0 460 404 961 (VW OE ref: 028130082H) or similar Bosch VE series variants. [1, 2] 2. The 1.9 D Engine (Engine Code: AEF) If you have the purely mechanical indirect-injection model, your truck came from the factory with a Lucas mechanical rotary injection pump. [1] How it works: This is a fully mechanical, cable-driven pump (no ECU controlling the throttle). Note for owners: The factory Lucas pumps are infamous for developing leaks or failures over time. As a result, many owners swap them out for a highly reliable Bosch VE mechanical pump taken from older VW 1.6D or 1.9 TD (AAZ) engines, which requires changing the mounting bracket. [1, 2] Alasdair

could be a worn cv joint/drive shaft thats clunking. Mine sounds similar and reckon theres play in joint/shaft so under aceleration you dont notice as its under pressure but if you slow down and accelerate again it clunks slightly. I assume the clunking is the slack being taken up. Doesnt do it full left/right but generally in a straight line. Alasdair

Depends on what pump it is. You used to be able to get pumps recon reasonabley cheaply but cost these days can be as much as a new one. Reckon anything between £200-£800 or above depending on whats wrong. Wonder if as it ran out of diesel did it suck up crud/water and filters are blocked? Some pumps have a fine gauze at fuel inlet. Not sure what car it is or engine but it may have an intank filter as well. Worth checking and replacing all filters first. Alasdair

Was it soot or ash content or both that was 20% Soot gets burned off during regen but ash builds up over time. Next time it happens I would take it out for a decent long run and see how long it takes for it to regen again. With mine its random. Recently after decent run it took over a two weeks to start regen again but if I do short trips it starts regen about every few days until another long run. Check the dpf sensor isnt melted. Read a few reports that on ea288 engines the sensor is prone to heat and can melt/be damaged. Alasdair

When I did my MK2 I just reused the originals and have had no problems although I believe they are stretch bolts so should have been replaced. Think if it gives a torque and then a degree angle they are stretch. If its just a torque setting then they are not. Alasdair

Local garage changed my folks Fabia 1.9tdi from variable to fixed as they were only doing 4-5k a year. Mechanic used to service just before MOT and while he was at it checked car over for MOT. He reckoned that high mileage per year go variable but low mileage per year go fixed plus its getting an annual check over as well as a service. Alasdair

Might be a failing dpf pressure sensor or the ash content is very high. Might be worth getting a quick vcds scan to see if there any stored and check ash level at same time. My octavia does the same but only getting short runs these days. When it happens I try and give it a decent long run. Alasdair

Re waxoil. Mine were a bit rusty under covers in places. I decided to use waxoil as I had some old stuff and find its better at protecting previously rusty areas unless you rub down to bare metal ,treat and repaint. As mine was getting pretty bad I went with waxoil to try and hold back the rust. I did rub down the worse parts and treat with hydrate 80 before two coats of waxoil on top. Check up in suspension turret at front as well. Mine was getting rusty at top where top mount is. Seems to be stone chip but not all the way to top. Alasdair

Worth taking front plastic wheel arch liners off and giving a good clean. Theres a sponge like strip that supposedly seals to the botom of sill area etc but I took a bucket of fine salty mud out of both on mine. Gave it a good powerwash and then loads of waxoil afterwards. Mine was pretty bad when I finally took it off the road due to weak subframes etc. There was only on small hole in sill which I managed to fill and managed to get another MOT out of it. The stone chip protection is difficult to tell if its loose/cracked or not. On my sills there were a few obvious bubbles and when I rubbed down the paint etc found that moisture had been trapped behind. I just kept rubbing down till it was solid again. I treated the rusty bits with Bilt Hamber hydrate 80 which seemed to hold the rust back. Alasdair

I have an old mk2 thats now off the road due to rust. Places to pay attention to are Front lower wings/wheel arches especially nearest door pillar. The plastic liner traps all manner of crud and rusts from inside out. Front of rear wheel arch nearest sill and rear wheel arch where it meets bumper. Rear tailgate around number plate. Sills in general. The plastic stone guard becomes loose and lets moisture in. Bottom of doors where they meet sills Under car as you have noticed jacking points, inner sills and floor panel nearest rear/boot. Most of the front under car is covered so not too bad. Check brake lines etc. Rear subframe on mine is very bad as well as rear and front swing arms but they are not that expensive to replace with aftermarket ones if yours are as bad as mine. I am in a high salt area so corrosion is a major problem. I tend to buy cheap higher mileage cars and run them till they die. Mechanicly they are sound but alas the dreaded rust kills them. Alasdair

Ridex I believe are autodoc own brand they purchase from other manufacturers. They are budget/cheap parts. Fine if its to get it through an MOT etc but personally would fit something better. Try https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/ been using them for a few years and prices are generally a lot cheaper than ECP plus delivery so far has been within 48hrs. Have had a couple of problems due to delivery surcharge to my address but normally ok. Alasdair

The alarm code could be a failed siren but I assume the alarm is controlled via the BCM which I believe also controls priming of fuel pump. Apart from that i dont think they are related in any other way unless they share an earth? Did the indicators flash but no alarm siren? Alasdair

Been using https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk There prices and delivery are pretty good apart from random things that incur a delivery surcharge as I am in Inverness. If its skoda genuine parts then probably dealer or there is https://www.skoda-parts.com/ as well as https://www.lllparts.co.uk/ who also have original manufacturer parts diagrams and you can narrow it down with VIN. Alasdair

Did the pump hum/vibrate for a few secs at ignition or is it continuous. If its humming all the time it may be the pump thats faulty. As for bleeding not sure but have read you may have to use vcds etc. Probably as well getting a garage to do it. Alasdair

The rivets are N 91078801 and are 6.4 x 10mm. I got a two handed rivet gun to do my sons when the regulator totaled itself. Got them on ebay for around £10 for 10. Put part number into search and a few should ping up. Make sure your not paying a fortune for just one rivet! Alasdair