cardo

Not going to be much help, here, as the only fix I've heard of is the bypass kit. However, mine has been doing it for 2 years, on and off, and I just ignore it. I did read of a suggestion to move the lever back and foward from P to D 50 times to "unstick" the faulty switch, but it didn't work for me. Sorry.

I had that problem maybe 5 years ago and it seemd to go away after I charged the battery. Further, following a new battery about 2 years ago it has never happened again. Worth charging your battery to see if it helps?

I had that sort of problem, which seemed to be related to the battery's state of charge. Charging the battery made the fault disappear for few months and it has never happened again after getting a new battery 2years ago.

My best guess is that it is the battery level of your mobile phone, which is Bluetoothed to the car. Did you charge it overnight by any chance? :-)

Doesn't need to be coded. I changed mine for a used one from Ebay and all buttons worked immediately and without problems. Possibly a faulty switch, even though it's new?

I had problems with the parking brake which turned out to be a faulty switch - the one to apply/disengage the brake manually in the centre console near the cup holders. The parking brake still worked automatically, as normal, when shifting into/out of park (DSG gearbox), but didn't respond to the switch and threw the error message you're getting. I seem to remember that it caused the cruise control to stop working too. Replacement switch (which is a 3 switch panel, including the Auto hold switch to the left and the door lock?? switch to the right) solved everything.

You can also give it a little dab on the throttle and it will ignore the slow car leaving the motorway exit and/or allow your car to undertake another. I thought ACC was pants at first, but now I hate driving my wife's car with only basic CC. Adaptive is brilliant (once you learn it's quirks).

Along the slot on either side where the flat tab slides when the blind retracts.

A spray of silicone lubricant will work wonders to make it slide easier.

Ok - I just did this job about 4 weeks ago. In my case, the electronic brake would apply itself when the engine was switched off and released itself when the car moved off in gear, all as normal. What did not work was the switch in the middle of the panel of 3 just aft of the gear selector (DSG). I also had the dashboard warning message and another one about the cruise control not being available. The handbrake switch cannot be replaced without the other 2 (Auto-hold and door locks?) - it is all one panel with the 3 switches. I was quoted £135 for the panel by a dealer, but I managed to find a second hand one on Ebay for £42, which worked fine. It's not at all difficult to swap, but getting the shiny black piece which surrounds the gear stick off is a bit tough. I started by pulling out the bank of switched and blanks on each side of the gear selector. These are removed by prizing them up from their forward edge (nearest the dash board) and are quite easy to remove. It is probably not essential to pull these out, but it gives you a view into the shiny black piece helps to see how it might come off. If memory serves, the gear stick surround is held on by 3 plastic prongs along each side and is just prized off with a bit of brute strength. I have a set of plastic trim removal tools which are less damaging to the car and I used these to get under the front and back edges to force the black panel up enough to get fingers in to pull it free. Once you've got that out the way the handbrake switch panel is easily accessed and has a single electrical plug to pull off. (there's a little hook/trigger thing to one side which needs to be pressed in to release the plug) Reassembly is very simple as the pieces all just snap back into place in seconds. Edited to add - the replacement switch solved all the problems and removed the error messages

I got an "Electric Parking Brake Fault" message last week, which also caused the ACC to refuse to work. Using Carista I got the fault code for the ABS section as 32833, and the internet provided the suggestion that the parking brake switch had gone faulty. Since the brake still went on with shutting the engine off and released when moving the car, it seemed like the only way it wouldn't work was from the switch. Skoda wanted £135 for a new switch assembly (includes the auto-hold and the central locking button) so I found and ordered a used one at £42 from the well-known auction site. Arrived today in excellent condition, was fitted to the disassembled centre console in minutes, and did the trick! Carista cleared the fault codes, which did not return, so I am a happy punter. Take that, Skoda, and your overpriced spares!

Just to confirm that mine stopped working a few weeks ago. Damned annoying for a recent trip to Southampton and back. I checked each major section of the route for hold-ups using Google maps as we went along. If TMC doesn't get resolved I will probably abandon the inbuilt SatNAv completely and use Google/Waze permanently.

You are a gentleman, and a scholar, and a connoisseur of good whisky ! That's exactly what I was after. Now to grope about and try to figure out if all these parts are still there.

The other night travelling at a steady 60 I started to hear a flapping noise which lasted for about half a mile then stopped. The noise coincided with another car, maybe a Range Rover or Discovery passing me. My wife thought the noise was from the passing car, but I'm not so sure. There was no bang or clatter as if a part had fallen off - the noise just stopped. I've no way of getting the car off the ground to look properly, so I can only see in from the sides. Most of the underside has plastic covers, but it appears that there is a narrow longitudinal section in the centre which is uncovered. Does anyone have a link to a parts diagram of the undertrays or a picture of what it should normally look like? The car is a 2016 2.0 TDI 150hp Combi. Many thanks.

I may be preaching to the converted here, but the car (on Acc) will start to accelerate a bit when you put on the indicator to overtake.

I've used National Tyres 3 times - 1) After a repair, I discovered months later that they'd lost the plastic tweezers for getting the wheel bolt covers off. 2) Had to get a new tyre urgently following a nail in the side wall. Discovered weeks later that I no longer had 5 wheel bolt covers on that wheel. 3) Following another puncture repair, on looking for the manufacturing date on that tyre, I noticed that the tyre had been put back on inside out! I could never bring myself to use them ever again.

I had exactly the same problem with Halfords. I only bought through them and paid £25 for them to fit it so that I could get the new battery coded in. (I could have done the actual battery swap myself!) Apparently there are only 2 working laptops in Halfords in Scotland and by the time my fitter went to get one they were both out. I was going on a 500 mile trip the next day so I rushed round to my local "guy who used to work in a VW garage" and he took another £25 off me to do the coding. (he also gave me a lecture about using Halfords and not taking it to him in the first place!) Halfords then sent me a request to rate their service on Trustpilot, which I duly did, and mentioned their inability to complete the essential coding. To be fair to Halfords, they read the review and replied to the criticism by saying that they would refund my £25, which they duly did in a week or so.

This thread made me go out and have a thorough look at my tyres today. No uneven wear at all, so quite happy with that, however on looking for the manufacturing date stamp I found that one tyre didn't have the week no./year no. panel. It was only then that I realised I could see the word "inside" on the outside of the car. The bloomin' tyre was fitted the wrong way round! A quick check of the paperwork showed that the NSR tyre had been off for a puncture repair in June and that's when it must have happened. So I have done about 3000 miles with the damned tyre going backwards! I will nip round tomorrow to have words. That's the 3rd time I've used this particular National tyre depot. 1st time I found, some months later, that the puller for the plastic nut covers was missing. 2nd time I found, some months later, that one of the plastic nut covers was missing. 3rd time - they do this! Don't think I will be using them again...... But thanks to the contributors to this thread, without which I would probably never have spotted this!

No need to do this. There is a rocker switch on the B pillar down by the driver's seat (RH drive) which switches off the motion censor, whilst leaving the rest of the alarm system working.

I've had that twice in 3.5 years of ownership, but only on the driver's door. Both times the (unexpected) cure was to charge the battery. A TV engineer (ex-mechanic) pal suggested there may be corrosion somewhere in the circuit that means a higher electrical resistance leading to problems with a low battery voltage. Worth a try?

What doesn't make sense, to me at least, is that the swiveling headlights don't swivel left and right with the steering in Eco mode. Can't see any "eco" fuel savings in inhibiting that feature. Also, in Eco mode, the alternator doesn't kick up the voltage to 14.?? on the overrun, as it does in all other modes, so the battery doesn't get a wee boost when you take your foot off the gas. I guess that's because the engine is running on tickover rather than a trailing throttle.

My December 2016 150 HP DSG Executive Combi has the TV tuner installed. Bought it second hand, so I don't know whether it was paid for as an extra or rolled in with normal Columbus system at that time. Can't say that I've ever found much use for it myself.

Further to my earlier post where I said my car mostly moves off in 2nd gear.... Today I tried the DSG reset procedure that I read about on here (ignition on, throttle to the floor for 20 seconds, foot off the throttle, then start the engine). Much to my surprise and, I suppose, delight, my car now drops into 1st most of the time when stopped or slowed to below 5mph. I've only had the blooming thing for 3 years and put up with the slow 2nd gear starts all that time!

My 6 speed wet clutch does this too, so I think it is designed that way. Unless you stop on an uphill slope, or select Sport, then the car usually moves off in 2nd and does "slip" until you get to about 11mph. Based on no technical information whatsoever, I can only think that it is a way of sharing the wear between the 2 clutches. If the car always started in 1st gear then the initial moving off slippage would always be down to the 1st gear clutch, maybe causing premature failure. Just a guess, but I would be interested in hearing a more technical explanation if anyone's got chapter and verse on how it works.

I think your conclusion is probably right. I've had that problem, generally in conjunction with the driver's door not locking/unlocking when the other doors do from the key fob. Never got to the bottom of the problem, but it did go away after I gave the battery a 24 hour charge up. It's happened a couple of times in the 3 years I've had the car, but not in the last 12 months or so. Definitely worth charging your battery before shelling out for a new one.