J.R.

I think he is 30 years behind the times with that notion, lets say it was my Yeti and the diff breather was submerged, the sudden cooling of the casing sucking in a good quantity of water plus that which would come in through the static head, several months later I present the car under warranty with a knackered diff, Skoda would quite rightly refute the repair due to water ingress, even if they didn't they would not repair the differential, its a specialist job, the parts are not available through VAG, aside from the time and cost they could not guarantee the repair as they could a new unit, nope it will be a bill of 4.5k plus labour to the customer. Hell the exact above has happened scores of times due to the incompetance of their own service technicians draining the diff instead of the Haldex unit yet that still does not get taken up by the media. If they are not going to repair something that every garage in the 50's and early 60's were capable of they certainly are not going to be messing with a high voltage battery pack swimming in corrosion even if the parts were available and they had certified technicians, the battery pack will be sold on to one of the specialist reconditioners but dependant on how long it remains wet even they are unlikely to be able to salvage much other than the casing, even that is dubious as electrolytic corrosion will have been having a field day. Anyone that says the battery pack should resist submersion is talking out of their backside, anything with service penetrations (cables, pipes, breathers, submarine propeller shafts) will leak to some degree, I designed military equipment which could be used outside in thunderstorm or resist a water cannon, far worse than a Tesla driving through a puddle (which of course was a porkie) but often the only way we could meet the submersion requirements (think falling off a raft during a river crossing etc) was to adapt specialised transit cases for the equipment made by other MOD suppliers.

Yes I agree. The deployment of the airbag and specifically the deflation absorbs the energy over a period of time, softens the blow if you like rather like a crumple zone assuming a seat belt is worn to maintain the initial safe distance while it is inflating, not wearing one means your head will impact it while it is in explosive inflation, the baseball bat as you call it, still preferable to hitting the steering wheel or windscreen by which time your head will have gained much more forward velocity and momentum before hitting something really hard. Back to the OP, he said that the sensor was under the drivers seat, your following comments about the sensor being under the passenger seat made more sense to me, was it a typo or could his vehicle be high mileage and someone has cannibalised a wear free passenger seat to replace the worn drivers one? Over to @WilliamG

Whilst he is clearly incapable of currency conversion (1 Brexit UK dollar = 2 Brexit Scotland dollars) he claims to be an expert in water damaged electronics, from 2 minutes 0 seconds he explains that "Everybody lies!"

When RJVB referred to having the "distribution" replaced that means the timing belt and ancilliaries in French. Courroie de distribution = Timing Belt Kit de distribution = belt, + tensioner etc.

Oh that made me laugh out loud 😄

Well they must still be around if they have been put on SORN unless someone is trying to work the system using an old V5 or logbook to transfer a valuable number plate. I dont see why someone would do it if they simply had plans to recommission the vehicle, they would simply do the renovation and then MOT and Tax it, why give themselves the grief of renewing SORN every year and the risk of fines? My Caterham was on SORN and the renewals and risk of fines were a pain although I believe they may have changed the system. My Lotus Elan S4 was last legally on the road in the 80's, I bought it in the 90's and its registered in my name, it has never been on SORN as it was already untaxed for more than a decade when the system came in, a situation that I am more than happy with. If as is likely I will sell it as a renovation project (I have neither the space or the time currently to do it) then the new owner if UK resident would register it in their name and I assume have to declare SORN, this is probably what has happened with the vehicles you speak of showing up after many years of absence.

I don't think you are ever going to get a straight answer to that ORDS.

11.8 volts is what I would expect for a voltage reading taken from a Start/Stop vehicle unless the battery was disconnected or the bonnet switch shunted and the measurement taken after 20 minutes when the Can Gateway will have shut down, that alone drops the voltage by around 0.7v making any comparison to an open cell voltage/state of charge chart meaningless.

Do you mean that you charge the battery with your charger and then leave the car for 18 days or do you mean that after having driven the car for a reasonable journey you considered that the battery was fully charged before leaving it? The latter is a wrong assumption because the battery management system for the Start/Stop function only maintains the battery at about 80% state of charge. If its the former then either you have a parasitic discharge like a dashcam or the Can Gateway not shutting down or the battery has lost capacity, I would expect and have experienced more being able to restart after more than 30 days with a fully charged good battery, sadly cars with the Start/Stop system never have a fully charged battery. You could try disconnecting the shunt resistor which will give a standard alternator charging system, then drive it for a few miles to fully charge the battery and see whether it exceeds the 18 days by any margin.

Well I am narrow minded like every other person on this forum aside from yourself according to you. 15 seconds is more than enough to tell me about the person making the video, 2 seconds is enough when its an enthusiastic "HI GUYS!" to loud brash accompanying music. Just like scrolling down to see how long one of your tomes is going to endure.

Because the air causing the problem would have almost certainly been from the slave cylinder and trapped in the void below the bleed thumb-turn. Wwhilst I agree 100% with replacing the master cylinder first, doing so involves bleeding the system which will give temporary respite, I hope yours is the exception but I expect the symptom to reoccur and that will probably be with a change in temperatures, I cant recall now if mine reoccurred in Spring or Winter.

Thanks for the correction, I should have said "were" as in the original fitments of mainly steering wheel airbags were to reduce the death figures of non seat belt wearers, I agree that nowadays they are but one element of an integrated active safety system. I can see that a passenger airbag would not deploy if the seat did not sense an occupant but would not be so sure about the drivers doing the same because it's a reasonable assumption that someone must be driving the vehicle. I'm not sure I agree with your thoughts regarding being safer without airbags if not wearing a seatbelt, whilst its true that a steering wheel airbag has the potential to injure a non restrained driver that injury would be far less than impacting the steering wheel and windscreen without its protection, that was after all the scenario that led to their introduction.

Video aborted after 15 seconds of listening to a narcissist rambling about ducks in a pond.

With the evidence and experience of my own eyes and hands :

Airbags should all work, they are primarily intended for non seat belt wearers anyway. Seatbelt alarm would not work if it were the passenger seat, not sure what goes on when the ECU thinks the car is being driven without a driver, I'll sit up from the seat next time mine bongs when I'm driving without one off the highway.

The OP asked a specific question and it wasn't please order me what to do.

It won't be and time will indeed tell.

Did you really think I would RTFM for the first time? 😂

The resistor is the EOL (end of line) monitoring resistor, as it is a safety related system the controller should see the resistance across the wires which switches to a short circuit zero resistance when someone is in the seat, if it sees an open circuit it means the circuit is inoperable usually by someone disconnecting it. Sounds like yours has been disconnected which should bring up a fault code.

I started to remove my throttle valve today to inspect but chickened out as 2 out of the 3 fixing bolts are really inaccessible and could easily drop & become lost, too much at stake for no real return, I choose my battles carefully these days! Power and economy undiminished so I think it is still clean, it has only been exposed to filtered air since the emulator fitted.

It seems to be and looks identical to mine. Well done on finding their direct website. It's possible the item is out of stock, Ebay sellers often raise the price to something silly to keep a listing active and save having to relist it all over again, he might be doing the same with postage although it came up us £20 to France.

Is the answer to your question "with your eyes"? Doesn"t sound like much of a hack but that would seem to be obligatory of anything bearing that label.

"Handed a bill for £173743 and "still have not seen their luxury car/boat 😄 since it was wheeled away from the side of the road" would indicate they have not paid said bill, the tale told to the media is in the hope that Tesla will fix it for free. Interesting to see revealed by Rooted that the guy is as equally media savvy as the one who claimed his MG would not stop, has any more come to light about his claims? Good to read that Tesla will respond on behalf of the business once they have investigated, it confirms my belief that what people are believing they have said is hearsay at present. If it is fixed then the owner will have authorised the repairs to go ahead in accordance with the quote/estimate, no way would the garage have done work of that magnitude for a contentious customer without authorisation. And now he is baulking at paying.

Driving in those conditions and choosing to drive through floodwater are very different things. The owner is carefull to paint a story of innocence about his night out at a restaurant, if as he claims the garage claims the battery pack has been submerged its unlikely to have been that evening, the water ingress will have taken quite some while to corrode things to cause a breakdown, you could indeed float a Tesla (except it wouldn't as the cabin is not marine sealed) and have the battery powering the wheels, if you were to end up in a river the headlights for signalling and the window motors for egress would all work and mosts systems continue to do so after the vehicle is recovered but in time they would all fail unless dried out, corrosion removed and neutralised and the PCB's conformal coated (I think that was the term) I have experienced many that I have saved from water damage only to fail later on.

The dealer had not stated anything unless you know different. The owner makes claims of what they are alleged to have said and without me reading through the article again did he not say "they effectively said........" ?