J.R.

What a knob, you watch (or click through in my case) the clickbait because he is going to tell you how much his insurance has gone up and how much he has lost on the vehicle. It takes him 40 minutes of narcissism to finally explain in 10 minutes what should take 5 seconds "my insurance went up this year from £600 to £3100" then at the end of an hour he finally says again in a really rambling fashion how much he has lost on the vehicle. Except Toot reckons it was on contract hire or PCP in which case he should be crowing about how much he has saved compared to had he bought it. More fool me because I have just indirectly contributed towards his amoral earnings.

Mine on the last 2 vehicles took up all the space in the then and now reduced capacity gloveboxes, cutting out and throwing away all the foreign language sections of the radio manual alone doubled the available glovebox space. Still not enough to make me RTFM though 😒 I was proved wrong on this forum when I said that my fuel filler cap did not have a notch to hold it away from the bodywork on the filler flap, had I RTFM'd then I would have denied myself a pleasant surprise and helping of humble pie!

https://www.boomblasters.com/product/cow-moo-sounds-car-horn/

Why are you asking me? I don't even know what Safelock is. Iits your car, its you who is happy to lock his son in there using your belief, acquaint yourself with your own vehicle before you end up in an undesirable situation. My only advice is not to take the words of others, myself included or what the manual says, see it yourself with your own eyes and try to replicate possible scenarios like unlocking the car, opening the rear hatch or passenger door then leaving the keys just inside and closing the door again, see what happens after a couple of minutes. Try to imagine what an unknowing passenger might do or someone you give your keys to to get something out of the car.

There is an occupancy sensor in the passenger, surely as a minimum the vehicle should lock but not deadlock if that is showing a presence? Maybe 2 clicks to deadlock and alarm if you are carrying a shopping bag on the seat or the sensor is faulty Not much help for children in the rear though.

Does that mean with one click the alarm is not set and the doors are not deadlocked? No such feature on any of my 3 Skodas dating back to 2001, one click only sets everything. I can see that it would be desirable but in the inverse way, one click all secured, 2 clicks alarm disabled and inside door handles operative, that would be a great benefit when I sleep in the car in dodgy areas, I currently have to leave it unlocked or set the alarm off whenever I roll over!

I still dont even know what "Safelock" is supposed to be but I would never be happy leaving a person or an animal in my vehicle knowing that the doors had locked or could lock and I certainly would not be comforted by my expectations.

You are leaving a lot to trust in your "expectations" if you know that the car locks with your son in it then surely as a responsable parent you would have done a test to see if he could get out and made sure he was aware of how, I definitely would not trust to my "expectations" or even what the manual said in that instance, I would want to see it with my own eyes. Sadly there have been a few cases of people dying in deadlocked VAG vehicles, one was a woman (I think) returning home after a boozy night out who decided to sleep in the car so as not to disturb her partner, before you ask I cant recall the details of how the vehicle was unlocked or where the keys were, I don't think even the Coroner got a satisfactory answer but I deduced it was probably a faulty door open switch or the keys left outside.

Safelock does lock you or a passenger in the car with no means of escape and I have yet to find a way to disable it and especially the annoying and incomprehensible message that comes up saying it is activated. Mine does not have keyless and will not lock when I get out unless I press the remote locking button on the keyfob, at home the car is never locked, one time I got in after loading stuff from a DIY store and realised I did not have the keys to put in the ignition, at that second the doors locked and I could not get out using any door handle or window, also the alarm went off. There were lots of people around so other than the embarrassment of the spectacle I had no real worries so I composed myself and went back over my footsteps, where could the keys be? (they were not in my pockets) and secondly whay had the car locked? Door lock switch not working? That was secondary to being able to get out and find the keys, I crawled in the back to look if they had fallen out when loading but they were not there, eventually I found them under the drivers seat, I still cant be sure of how the vehicle locked that one time only, door lock switches function as they should, maybe that one time the drivers door one didnt, maybe the keys fell and my foot or something pressed the lock button. What I do know from experience of being locked in and having had to release children and babies locked in other VAG vehicles at filling stations is that all VAG vehicles since the last century have deadlocks and when they are locked they are locked the inside door handles are inoperative, if you smash a window you have to pull the occupant through it or exit yourself through it.

Why do you need it? You should be able to access the controller for all the other functions.

This proves that the module is switching the blue/red to battery earth, the problem sounds like the lack of current/voltage being applied which may be a wiring fault or one with the module, it could still be a fuse though if the 10.9v is a stray or induced voltage, you could try hotwiring 12v to the Y/R and then pressing the switch.

If you get nowhere with tracing the fault to the switching module or replacement/garage diagnostic time is too expensive your hardwired logic could actually save you, hardwire it to a fused feed and never worry about it again!!!! The switch contacts might not be rated for the current but its used so infrequently I doubt it will be a problem, I cant even recall how the switch operates now, I think you press it but the control module gives a momentary output. My poverty spec Yeti does not have the remote release or a lock on the flap, it has an old school locking petrol cap, another bullet that I have dodged!!!

Were you taking the measurements with the release motor connected? The 10.9v might be a stray voltage, if you have fuses spare then try flashing it to ground or better still via a resistor, it could be a monitoring signal for the release motor like the bulb failure warning system, the blue red wire probably is switched to ground via whatever controller does the actual switching. Dont worry about your "hard wired" logic, I had exactly the same with my MK1 Octavia mainly because it was so reliable I was never exposed to the intricacies of the Canbus system, I did not even know it had one till after 12 years of ownership, had I been up to date like I am now I would never have had to scrap the vehicle through door locking problems. Getting a MK2 was a vertical learning curve for me!

Because it was very very cheap and I cannot resist a rebuild project, with a remap it goes like the wind. Also the cost of registration and insurance is massively lower in my country for lower fiscale HP rated versions. I didn't even realise it was 4x4, both that and the low power rating were later to become real positives, my gut feeling proved correct.

Excellent news, yet another bullet dodged!

Not so in my case as I have the smaller diameter struts and steering knuckles that dont have the removeable caliper carriers and the calipers are different, mine was a 110HP version, I think it has 280mm and not 288mm discs, the brakes really lack feel. I bought second hand calipers, carriers and discs before finding out the issue, I cannot believe how heavy they are 😒

It is probably nothing to do with the oil change and a coincidence, more likely to be a resonant vibration from the engine cover, exhaust heat shields or maybe something disturbed during the oil change, engine RPMs idling in D will be lower than idling in N, the slight increase in RPM is enough to stop the resonant vibration. You could well be overthinking this and searching for demons that are not there.

My vehicle has the basic poverty spec heating and AC system (Climatic?) and not Climatronic, it seems to have just as many flaps, motors & encoders, sensors etc around it but lacks the program refinements, could I be lucky in that my vehicle will not have this sensor? I suppose I could check the measuring blocks for the HVAC module in VCDS to find out otherwise.

Hysteresis usually means how far something can vary from a set point before a corrective action is taken, not a good description but think of a room thermostat set to 20°c, the room temp will probably drop to 18°c before the heating cuts in and then go up to 22°C before it cuts out, the average temperature will be 20°C but with swings of 2°c either side of the set point. The hysteresis in that example would be +/- 2°C. What it means in VCDS is anyones guess, any similarity between a variable and its name is purely coincidental 😀 'Indicator Celebration" being a good example!

Thanks, I'm not the only one to have reservations judging from the comments: "The problem, however, is what to do with the oil that enters the deactivated cylinders (the piston rings act as an oil pump). The oil inlet is also augmented by the fact that after a few seconds, the air inside the cylinder due to its leakage from the piston rings will cease to act as a spring, as in the cylinder will be vacuum during piston descent. How are these problems handled by Volkswagen, or they are not so important that they do not significantly affect the operation and lifespan?" I don't doubt that it saves a minimal amount of fuel, the large gains have all been made, current and future gains are the sum of lots of tiny incremental ones like this but at what cost?

deleted, I was thinking of another suggestion recently posted, thanks for the thanks!

I suggested hot wiring it to rule out that the fault is not simply an open circuit or stuck solenoid, I was not 100% convinced of your fault finding rationale, for instance you are assuming that the switch would have 12v and feed the solenoid but it could well be switching a transitor output within the body control module that activates the solenoid or the switching may well be done by the nearest canbus module to reduce the cables in the loom. I realise that a wiring diagram would reveal that but in the absence of one I would be testing the solenoid by hot wiring it, it may well have a back EMF protection diode across it in which case your multimeter on resistance or diode check range if it has one will reveal the polarity to you, also if you post the colours of the 2 wires we can advise which would be the negative.

The Canbus Gateway module communicates with all the nodes and other control modules, if you have physically removed the radio you must delete it from the installation list in the Canbus Gateway module.

Removing the radio will have made matter worse, doing that would create a current drain even if none existed before, the Can Gateway will not be able to communicate with the radio to tell it to shut down and will remain open with other modules. You have learned that a garage can make good money even when they dont have a clue what they are doing.

Petrol engine? Misfire under part throttle lean mixture conditions is usually ignition related, richer mixtures are easier to ignite, its why when mechanics take a car on a test drive they report no misfire, they dont drive gently like the owner does. Star with spark plugs and then coil packs, others will advise better than me as the last petrol engine I had was 1995 technology. And if an MPE is a diesel then my apologies!