J.R.

Could you hear the £150 "Kerching" noise in the background?

Shins to hold the wheel, knees and ankle joints to raise it.

Yes that looks exactly as I thought it would and how I was trying to explain. You can probably spring it away from the front, the forward fixing screws shown will need removing, the door seal and the C pillar trim also it looks like there is a central floor level trim between the two sides which will also need removing.

Get the battery tested, that money would have bought you the new battery to replace the one that is that is probably causing the problems. Do the lights come on when turning on the ignition or when cranking the engine? What lights? You say all of them but that is improbable. Have you recently fitted a dashcam or similar?

I only have experience of the Yeti, the Octavia is probably similar, the loading area side trim goes forward of the wheelarch and wraps around to meet the door seal, this includes the slot for the seatbelt. You will have to partially remove the trim starting from the rear to get access to the area you need, there are several screw fixings some well hidden like behind the fold down luggage hooks and within the T headed cleat type lashing attachments and there are also lots of spring clips, you have to really strain it to release and often its a hidden screw that is actually holding. The front part is mainly spring clips, you might be able to start releasing it from that end if you remove all the screws that are closest, I think you may even have to remove the upper C post trim which also has a screw hidden behind the Airbag warning logo.

The same one carefully rolled up has been in my toolbox for 30 years from back when I was fishing cables every working day, it was used in the last week during some rewiring of my neighbours house. Its actually a triggers broom because a couple of times it did not get put back in the toolbox by my trainees and when I next wanted to use it I had to ask the householder to donate me another one. It was part of the Trade Test I would always put to prospective employees, I would look at their toolbox to see what tools they carried, how many of them had been used and what others had been adapted like my wire fishing tool, then I would give them a virgin coathanger and my rolled up one with a looped end and ask them to make another from the coathanger with just their hands.

Wet emergency braking performance perhaps, most of us sensible drivers make allowances for the conditions but I accept an emergency can happen at any time or in any conditions. Dry grip and traction is dramatically increased once the tyre has worn 75% if it has worn evenly, a new tyre can be scrubbed out on the outer or inner edge in a few thousand miles if mistreated rendering it illegal, my tyres are now at the point of giving their maximum performance and longevity, I dont willingly make use of the extra performance but it may be solicited one day, I am happy to make the most of the longevity, over 40K miles now from tyres that were already pat worn when I got the vehicle, I will have to check the date code. My newest trailer is a 2750kg tipping trailer and its still on the original tyres, they are too old to have date stamps and these crossply van tyres have not been made for decades, the date stamp on the wheels supplied to Ifor Williams is 1994 so the tyres are just under 30 years old, the outer carcasses are a little cracked but the reinforcing and inner rubber, that which is important are still fine, they dont leak air, the rims are in better condition than ones on 2 year old modern trailers. I could replace the tyres but know full well that any modern ones exposed to the high UV where I live will be in worse condition than these within a couple of years and would be completely decomposed within 10 years let alone 30! They dont make em like they used to.

Is the 2422 shown in the photo the date code? I think it is because its a removable tab in the mould, you can see the male impression of the counterbored fixing screws sticking out from the tyre rubber. So those tyres have lasted just over a year, do you by any chance know from the MOT history how many miles the vehicle has done in that time? Editted, probably less than a year unless they were shipped to the tyre place and fitted almost immediately post manufacture.

They have worn very evenly which is a good thing, you are still throwing away their best miles though. I've had people telling me my tyres are bald for over a year, it started well before they got anywhere close to the TWI's, it was when the 1/2 depth grooves in the tread blocks dissapeared, very evenly I was pleased to see, that people started thinking they were bald, they were not used to seeing plain blocks of tread and yet its only from that point on that a tyre gives its best performance.

Your ar5e, your choice.

My money is on the former, I had not realised that the two threads were from the same contributor.

Failing to disclose a material fact in the case of not thinking to inform your insurers at the time and also not thinking when given the auto-renewal details is probably no big deal unless you have gone from being a Vicar to a Publican, it's unlikely to result in your insurance being invalidated or the claim refuted, in any case they will always pay out to the 3rd party if you are held responsible. Making a false declaration now in writing down an untrue occupation is a very different kettle of fish, that is deliberate.

DON'T TELL HIM PIKE! 😄 As I see it your issue probably isnt the claim, if you are telling us the true facts then its very unlikely that your occupation at the time of the accident will be questioned, the issue is that you are continuing to drive without having declared a change of circumstances to your insurer and you are at risk of being uninsured in a further accident. Its a shame that the insurance was renewed, that would have been a good time to declare your new occupation, I am making the assumption that you have gone from a low risk rated occupation to a high risk one which would result in a significant premium increase, if that is not the case then why not tell them now?

@Luckypants Hi Luckypants. That is very interesting to read, I drove 500 miles/800kms on Monday mainly the first 2 hours on Route Nationales and the rest on the Autoroutes, I did notice a lot more charging points at the Autoroute services and lots more vehicles using them but still plenty of free capacity, a lot seems to have changed (for the better) even since I last did the journey in May. Most of us will avoid buying fuel at the Aire de Services as they are usually 10-15% more expensive than off the autoroute, is that the same for the electric recharges? That said I never see charge stations outside of the Autoroutes but even the smallest village has charge bornes which are either very expensive or unaccessible unless you have the right charge card because I have never ever seen anyone charging at one, the one in my village has not charged a single vehicle in 5 years! If we were to take my journey, one that I frequently have to do could you give me an idea if how often and how long I would have to stop for recharges and what they would cost per kwh based on your recent experiences? Mondays journey took me 12 hours and I think 10.5 of those were driving, I reckon less was actual driving as I'm sure the shatnav says it can be done in 8.5 hours. In practice even if I leave with a full tank I have to stop several times for calls of nature, a coffee and a snack and often to take a nap, this time I had to stop after the first 2 hours, very tiring on the RN's before the autoroute, then again at 4 and 6 hours, at about 10 hours it was a forced stop as I was down to my last litre. What I am trying to say is that I would be taking frequent stops anyway but how many of those would have to be recharge stops, how long would they have to be and how much would they cost? A journey like Monday with the vehicle alone would be at 130kmh on the Autoroutes, with the vehicle and a loaded trailer at say 110km/h but consuming more carburant or electric. The current 12 hours stints I could not envisage extending although if I were to have fewer longer stops sleeping at the charge stations it might be less tiring than at present. My fuel costs currently are approx €85 in diesel, more if I have or choose to refuel on the autoroute.

Almost bald 😯 they are not even down to the treadwear indicators, their most productive life is still ahead of them, good news for whoever buys them as part worns. Bad news that they are rubber bands for whoever has to drive on them or travel in the vehicle.

Unfortunately they now hold all the cards including your car which they are treating as their own, it's probably already been auctioned off.

I thought the cost of a kwh of electricity was way beyond 19p in the UK now, I guess what doesnt help is that there is no State Regulated Tariff, a base price around which the energy suppliers can discount on one hand (off peak) while charging more on the other. How much per kwh would someone pay taking out a contract today?

You believe that the third party deserves a death sentence? His insurers will be playing exactly the same game with him and you both will see your renewal premiums double.

Spot on, the OP is willingly going down the path towards being effed over, the same path that Graham Butcher took, the value of a spare wheel which the car may never have had (big hint!) pales into insignificance compared to how much the OP is dropping his trousers for. The one thing to remember is the vehicle remains your property until the insurance payout has been agreed and paid.

Write whatever you choose regarding the occupation and stop worrying about it. Your insurers will be processing the claim without reference to your occupation. If you are confident that it is a no fault claim then you should not be worrying, however if you have doubts that you are not expressing here then perhaps you are right to be concerned about the gravy train that has been set in motion potentially being paid for by yourself. What I am saying is pretty much what Kodiaqsportsline has said, if the TP's insurer is paying out it is because they are liable, what your actual occupation is does not change that, if its your insurer who will be on the hook for your medical expenses then they will use a false declaration to deny the claim, they would have to pay the third partys claim including any medical costs but could then sue you for the money. No, never happened in the no fault claims that I have made but it all depends on who will be decided to be liable and the costs involved.

So I was right, you have never had a mains 240vac electric shock and seemingly dont understand the difference between AC and DC current, being kind perhaps you have confused one with the other. Not casting doubt, 100% disagreeing with your assertion that a DC current electrical shock will freeze the person to the conductor(s) and that an AC one will throw them off and across the room, no element of doubt. I would prefer to rely on my own experiences of multiple AC shocks and a couple of DC and also the wisdom of medical professionals than the account of a metal thief, I will refrain from using my usual pejorative for the type. https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2019/08/ac-dc-which-is-more-dangerous.html This is not the medical resource I wanted to quote but the wording has been lifted from the study paper, I am leaving now for an 800km drive, no doubt you will Google your heart out during that time hoping to prove your assertion. FYI its the bodies muscles that throw a person across a room.

I have fitted a cheapo Chinese ABS sensor to replace the OE one that failed, it was less than €2 so I bought a few, it has been fine so far. The OE ones were way more expensive.

Are you sure about that O wise one or have you not been practicing what you preach? It doesnt sound like you have ever ever had a mains electric shock, a Google one doesn't count. BTW neither could throw a person across a room.

Software was "rolled back" to the version it left the factory with, the one that cheated the emissions test, my car like most yours included had had the software updated to the "emissions fix" one by the servicing dealer and it was that which made the cars drive poorly, choke up the EGR valves and DPF's and do these constant regens. It cost a significant amount to have done but was worth every penny.

I never noticed this until moving when my journey profile changed to journeys long enough for the regen conditions to be met starting a regen but short enough (20km) for it not to be able to finish, I think after it has had say 5 failed attempts it starts regenning from start up on a cold engine which is crazy because it still could not complete in the 20km. I do not understand why you think it is trying to charge the battery and think you are misleading yourself.